This weekend started with fitting a new timing belt just for surety as I had no knowledge of when the last replacement was. After removing the old one I thought I had wasted my time as it looked like new, still showing the makers markings clearly. All the rollers looked new also so I left them on, along with the water-pump and alternator belt, even though I had bought one. In fact inside the timing cover looked very clean indeed, no oil leaks or water staining at all.
The only advisory on the MOT was the front brake flexies and sure enough on checking they were showing signs of cracking, so a new set of OEM flexis went on as well yesterday. I had to remove the o/s caliper to free off the bleed nipple and in doing so tore the slider pin boot, so if anyone has one....if not does anyone have any idea how much they are from the dealer, or another source?
I then rustproofed the front subframe and tightened up a weeping union on the FDV. I had bought new 3.5mm seals for this job, but this pipe is 6mm when measured where coated, which I think means it's 4.5mm pipe? Can anyone confirm and say where to buy the right seals, neither GSF or my local Citroen dealer stock them..or even supply I think...
Today saw me under the XM again, this time fitting new rear, centre and accumulator spheres, as well as generally greasing up all linkages I came accross, and daubing some rust preventative onto the pipes and rear underbody.
A picture taken before changing the spheres. All the spheres ar genuine Citroen and I suspect the rears to be originals judging by the condition and how tight they were on. This picture is after spraying the joint with penetrating oil and using a strap wrench to loosen it, so no longer shows all the rust on the sphere. The wheel ones were worse.
After changing spheres and applying rustproofing. Note the new genuine Citroen exhaust. This car had all works, including MOT's, carried out at the main dealer before my tenure.
I expected the main accumulator to be a real pain as access is very restricted, but having removed the intake trunking and fuel filter, a few sharp taps with a lump hammer saw it spining off by hand, in fact it was by far the easiest of the lot to do.
Greasing all the gear linkage and clutch cable pivots and joints, including the one at the base of the gear lever, has made a significant difference to the feel of the gear selection, it's well worth doing at service time.
I've not yet bled the hydraulics due to losing some fluid during sphere removal, but a test drive tells me the front spheres are not as supple as they could be, even though they appeared very supple when the rest were no good.
I fitted a new air filter today as well and intended to fit a new fuel filter but have been sent the wrong one. strangely AEP only list one for my age of 2.1..
After refitting the old fuel filter the car wouldn't fire up and it turned out to be the filter drain plug not sealing after opening it. When I pumped the primer fuel was emptying out into the container I had placed there....a litre or two...which was rather annoying as I had half filled the filter with injector cleaner.
It appears there is a seal or O ring missing, or disintegrated, off the end of the drain screw and I couldn't find it so made a sealing screw out of a 6mm bolt, a cut down piece of fuel hose and some Hylomar on the threads to ensure a good seal. It worked a treat, the primer is now harder than it has been, so I assume the screw was allowing air to be drawn in.
As I've come across connectors I've been parting them and greasing them, to stop corrosion of the contacts, before putting them back together.
Before doing the Electrovalve connector the valve made the usual click-hum-slight warbly hum- then silence, after greasing the contacts it goes click even hum then a defined clunk as it snaps back into the rest position. I'm not sure if this is as a result of some air in the system or because the valve is receiving more power, I suspect the latter as it no longer seems to warble.
It might also be receiving more power due to the battery terminals now being cleaned up, greased and last but not least.. tight...
When I've got the car mechanically right I intend to go through the car from front to rear rustproofing it.
Just to be awkward the low washer fluid sensor has started glowing (even though the bottle is full).
Can anyone tell me where the sensor is?
This car was meant to be all working when I bought it, since I've had it it's not been able to move due to being in bits all the time.
91 3.0 sei M. 4852 EXY Black
92 2.1 sed M. 5740 ECZ Sable Phenicien
92 3.0 V6-24. 5713 EXY Black
92 2.1 sd M. 5685 ENT Blue Sideral
Prev
90 2.1sd M. 5049 EJV Mandarin
92 2.1sd A. 5698 EJV Mandarin
94 2.1sd A. 6218 ERT Triton
91 2.0si M. 5187 EWT White
) of your XM collection, or perhaps searching for those elusive headlight washer covers? This is the place to do it.
where did these all come from 
