Citroen XM Forum

Hey,
I recently switched my steel wheels with the alloys on which were original to my car, idea is to get the alloys re-conditioned. They both require different bolts...
4 of the bolts for the steel wheels have cross threaded and need repalcing...
Citroen took 5 weeks to deliver last time I ordered. I have temporarily replace with bolts from wilko, but these are not sufficient......
Does anyone have any spares?
They are the heavy type with a long weighted head that protrudes from the hub.
Thanks
~Andy

Hi Andy,

If you go to your local scrappy, any of the PSA cars from the 90's will have suitable bolts. Xantias, 406s, etc etc.

I have some lying about, but I am in Northern Ireland, and you could probably get them locally easier, if you're still interested, let me know.

Robert

Ive a TON of these bloody things too!! - Just gain another 16 of them off the last xantia thats just gone... Another to go..

If you want some, PM me your address and Ill send some to you!!!!! GLADLY!

(Sorry Robert - Turbo stuff yours )

Paul
PS: Im in UK mainland

Aye, Go on ahead Paul! I'm not tripping over these bolts, but still have a pile!!

I'll have to get a wish list of bits organised Paul, and organise a jaunt to Anglessey, or get a pallets worth of stuff from you!!! I'll start working on it, and give you a call sometime to see what you might have! Thanks for the turbo stuff.

Robert

Made a start on the engine swap today, got her parked up, and front wheels off, undone the drive shaft nuts, thats it...

Hopefully Ill get a bit more done at weekend..

Got MOT on the Xantia TD on saturday

Paul

Well Its a good start, its bloody cold to be doing anything! The thing that slowed me up the most was the engine mounting above the automatic gearbox. I broke my torx bit, and spent ages hacking away stuff with the anglegrinder to get the clearance to get it out.

Thankfully I didn't have the trouble you were having getting the gearbox split off at the flywheel. If memory serves me there were different holes in the flywheel that I could lock it all in place with and then attacked the bolts.

I have that bloody 2.5 to MOT again, I'm just wiring the abs light up to the oil light, it will go off when the car starts and be enough for them I hope.

robert_e_smart wrote:

I have that bloody 2.5 to MOT again, I'm just wiring the abs light up to the oil light, it will go off when the car starts and be enough for them I hope.

I doubt that. The tester will look for the correct sequence, which is something like On-flicker-on-off...

Sorry to be pessimistic.

Correct,

Robert, The ABS light must go out after a flicker or two, and your MOT man should know this...

Then when started it should flicker its test again then go out..

I disconnected a feed plug behind the Passenger headlight, buried in with the Cooling Fans wires on my 1993 12v V6, this of course LEFT the light out.. and so no message.. incidentally, the message is actuvated BY THE ORANGE light and not from the ECU.. If the light is out, the message is out, and thats NOT by removing the bulb, I also disconnected the actual FEED Wire to the ABS light under the speedo clocks, this also left the ABS message off...

Paul

I checked the abs light in the 2.1. It comes on with all lights pre start up, then goes out after a few seconds, comes on again on starting and goes out about 3 seconds later.

It is a real pain. But I wonder how thorough they are with the checks. Our test centres are govt run too, so I wonder if the XM (of which there are hardly any over here) is even on their radar for them to know the correct sequence.

My tester has on the wall a chart which documents the correct behaviour of the light for each model of car, and I imagine every testing station was issued with the same chart. Indeed, the checklist which is printed at the beginning of the test is to a certain degree personalised according to the vehicle, and the behaviour of the light may be documented therein.

I dare say what happens at the test depends very much on the tester in question. Some lax testers may pass a car with the light on. If the light is disconnected or tied in to the oil light either the tester may not notice or indeed not care. The fact however remains that a thorough tester would spot the abs sensors fitted, see the light is not behaving in the prescribed manner and issue a fail. This is correct according to the MOT testers handbook, but what happens in reality is another matter altogether. It's got to be worth a try though...