Gold 2.0Si

[Eddie nuff]

The alternator isn't a new one but the original fully refurbed. The connectors are also original and the exciter should fit into the top slot. There is only one green wire hanging down from the manifold and it naturally fits to the oil switch. It's interesting that the exciter wire could be trapped under the lhm tank as the whole of that area has been out.

[Dieselman]

I hadn't realised the connected lead is Gnd for the alternator, most don't have one.

For the lamp to be illuminated, the exciter wire must be making a Gnd connection somewhere, so either connected to something it shouldn't be, or the wire has been trapped.

For basic car electrical work you only need a few test tools, multi meter, test lamp.
Buy a cheap multi meter and 12v test lamp, then make a load test lamp using a spare headlamp bulb and two wires.

A low wattage test lamp is a quick and safe method of testing for power or Gnd connection

It is possible for wires/connections to meter out Ok, as the multi-meter is very low current, but a headlamp bulb will draw 5 amps, so load test the circuit. Don't use on electronic circuits.

[White Exec]

I doubt that the cable nearest the camera is a Gnd connection, as it has the plasticwork around it for a protective cover (like the main output). As Will says, unusual for an alternator to have a cabled Gnd connection, and if it did, it would need to be at least the same size as the output cable. Gnd'ing is normally via frame/mounting.

[citroenxm]

We didn't say it was the ground cable.. it is the charge light cable.. but I noted it's connected to B- pole which to me is wrong.. I'd expect it to be connected to the flat blade connector at the top. So the next suggestion was the cable trapped somewhere which could sell be the next stage..

[Eddie nuff]

I hadn't realised the connected lead is an Gnd for the alternator, most don't have one.

Is that due to its age and being the original equipment?

For basic car electrical work you only need a few test tools, multi meter, test lamp.
Buy a cheap multi meter and 12v test lamp, then make a load test lamp using a spare headlamp bulb and two wires.

I've got one of them multi-meter thingy's. It was cheap, I just wish I had bought one with English on the front as it's incomprehensible to me. It's written in a weird language with ohms and such on the front - very strange!

And please don't try to explain it to me folks, my eyes just glaze over. Electrics is just witchcraft

[citroenxm]

Damm. If we could get to you we soon have it sorted Neil .

[Eddie nuff]

It's not me who lives out in the middle of the Irish Sea - sort of

On a serious note I'm surprised by how few there are in this part of the North who have any interest in Citroens, new or old.

[citroenxm]

Ha. Same over here no one on this island is keen. Lucky though I can sort stuff myself WHEN I get to doiing it.

It's more new car wars over here. Your frowned if you drive anything older then 5 years old..

[Dieselman]

I doubt that the cable nearest the camera is a Gnd connection, as it has the plasticwork around it for a protective cover (like the main output). As Will says, unusual for an alternator to have a cabled Gnd connection, and if it did, it would need to be at least the same size as the output cable. Gnd'ing is normally via frame/mounting.

If it was there originally and connected in the same fashion, it is the alternator Gnd.
I've only known of one other car with a seperate alternator Gnd, which was the similar age Vauxhall Chavalier injection.

I suspect car manufacturers were a bit itsy about electrical systems on cars fitted with electronic fuel injection being spiked by spurious alternator outputs.

Of course, diesels don't need such namby-pamby measures...like bonnet Gnd straps...

[Eddie nuff]

Nearly two years since I last updated this, how time flies when you're enjoying yourself

Work silly, still no time to play, but madam has issued a directive that I must slow down. She's also issued an ultimatum that Goldie must be on the road this summer or sold as is.

Problem with that is that the engine is seized, locked solid, so therefore the suspension can't raise in order to get the car over the lip at the entrance to the yard. I need to remove the car as the land owner has stated I can't change the engine where it is. So block the rear suspension, skates under the front wheels, remove the front bumper and hope there's enough clearance to get it onto the transporter.

With Paul's help I have a replacement engine due this month. I intend to drop the complete front end and then separate the subframe to be shot blasted. As the rubbers in the subframe will be as old as the car I've been searching for replacements
https://www.mecatrouve.com/piece.auto/m ... 304045.htm
Are these the right ones and is there any difference in make?

Are the cv boots on the steering rack readily available?