1998 XM - 2.1td - Steamy Windows!

[turbo_imp]

Thats is good to know guys, I will take them off still and then check / rust cure / rebuild whilst taking good note of the condition so that I can spot and deterioration.

I must say, these forums really are fantastic. Everyone is helpful, open minded, and really willing to help to keep another XM on the road.

Thanks again everyone

More progress tomorrow!

J

[xmexclusive]

Sorry the quick guide turned out so much verbiage.
We were giving opinions from just photos.
There is a risk in giving that sort of condition estimate.
You cannot examine all you want and time may well change the visible condition.
By setting down what I thought was the reasons and process used newcomers can make their own strut head assessments.
And those of us with detailed experience can extend the post, add photos or correct errors.

John

[citroenxm]

John,

You out of most of us have the MOST experiance and knowledge on the Tops.

all Ive found that untill the cone starts pushing out then they are not too urgent..

Ive not seen XM base plates go like xantia ones, which rot away COMPLETELY, rather then push cones out downwards..

Are the XM and xantia ones made exactly the same, other then turned sphere mounts??

[Dieselman]

The Xantia metal is thinner and due to the rubber coating allowing water to penetrate, they rot rapidly...but are cheap.

[White Exec]

John, that was an excellent detailed summary of the sources of Tops failure. Well worth putting together.
C.

[turbo_imp]

I beat it! Finally got that stud out, the process is shown below but it was NOT easy

So this was the cambelt change, not very interesting but all part of the recomissioning so worth documenting I feel.

I started with the essential citroen first step to working on the car -



Yep, axle stands, as well all know the suspension takes no prisoners if it decides to drop unexpectedly.

Once it was up in the air I started to follow the haynes book of lies to change the cambelt, don't you just hate it when it says 'just' or 'simply', lies I tell thee, LIES!

Wheel off and access panel removed to the lower portion of the engine -



Belt covers and engine mount off -



The starter motor was unbolted and an M8 bolt inserted into the flywheel to lock the crank, then two more into the fuel pump and the cam pulley. The belt was then marked in two places at each pulley, important for me to ensure that the belt goes back in the correct place regardless of tensioning.

To get the crank pulley off I used a breaker bar, and a looooooong extension, this was then supported using another axle stand so that all the force would be transferred into the bolt, important as it was done up F.T.!



Again the crank pulley and belt was marked up to ensure correct positioning.

The idler pulley was replaced and then I came to the tensioner pulley, the design of this component is odd to say the least, almost impossible to remove with the engine in the car. After fighting with it for some time I decided to walk away for the day and see what I could come up with.



The next day I decided to take off the engine mount errrr mount? This was a struggle to get off the engine in situ, but possible. This gained access to the tensioner pulley mounting, and the stud that was such a pain to remove could at least be seen. I put two nuts on to lock against each other, even though this did not work on the previous day, I had an idea that could help. I pushed the steel pressing as far down as possible, then turned the locked nuts at he same time as rotating the pressing, this allowed just enough force to overcome the locking compound on the stud.



It worked! So the last old component could be removed and replaced with new

I marked up the new belt and matched the tooth count, then fitted it in place -







Once this was sorted I started re-assembly, stopped at the earliest point and cranked the engine over by hand to ensure that there was no interference and the timing was at least close.

Then finished off, and gave it a crank, started on the button winner!

So the car now has a new water pump, idler puller, tensioner pulley, and belt

I celebrated by taking off one of the mud flaps as I know these are actually a mud trap, to see what was was hiding, lots of mud



I have given it a wash in the last of the sunshine too, making the most of this glorious weather. It has been a while since spending the say outside has been pleasant!

So tomorrow as I have done some very important work, I can do some fun things, like claybar and polish the paint, wax the car and do some detailing

Big hugs,

J

[CitroJim]

Excellent stuff J, a very good lot of work done there

I reckon your idea to support the long extension with an axle stand when undoing the crank bolt is an absolutely inspired one. Must try that next time..

2.1 tensioners are fun aren't they I struggled with my first one because I couldn’t visualise it. Now I've done them and can picture the tensioner it's no problem. My first one was made difficult because the tensioner Allen bolt head had been chewed. I needed to use a reverse-flute socket on its head to loosen it. I then replaced it...

Great to see you really giving out the TLC to that lucky XM

[citroenxm]

Ah ha!

I nice clear picture of the Crank! Now, just to make a point here which I fell for!

The Key way DOES NOT and is NOT supposed to line up with the Gapped alignment next it in the Picture.. Thats for the TCT engine which it does!!

If the Timing lock is fitted to the flywheel this comes true. I made the mistake by being lazy and lined the keyway with the gap, making it a tooth out retared... Only after reassembly did I find a no go..

This shows that the 2.1 and TCT use the same block casting...

[citroenxm]

I reckon your idea to support the long extension with an axle stand when undoing the crank bolt is an absolutely inspired one. Must try that next time..

Still CANT beat a bar and socket on the bolt and a flick of the starter! Even easyer!! With no effort!

Agreed Also, nice work Imp... Ill be dooing this all soon with my own recent 2.1 SD.. but might grab the whole lot out and do clutch, Head gasket (as a matter of course) and belt all together!

[CitroJim]

Thats for the TCT engine which it does!!

Are you sure Paul? I'm not at all sure it does as the gapped alignment is for use with the timing hole in the crank pulley...

Which can never be relied upon of course as it's a dual-mass device but with a solid pulley it's perfect for the job..

Here's a picture of my test timing pulley for the TCT engine. The timing hole is the middle one of the group of three and it does not line up with the key-way...



Or am I missing something here?