My 1993 XM 2.1 SD Auto L322 VCV

[Aerodynamica]

Arg, new spheres, replaced bulbs in dash, replaced bulbs in rear lights and now the other rear side window has packed up - presently held up with tape... How do I get the door cards off...

[Dieselman]

I can't remember if there are any screws, but think not, so...
Unlock the door and poke a small screwdriver into the lock button clip to release it, prise the card off starting at the bottom, lift off at the window seal.

[Duke]

I don't think I've removed doorcards from a S1 car, but I definitely remember there being some screws on the S2 cars.

IIRC there was one large screw (star drive) which is accessible once the electric window switches have been prised out of their holders.

Also one underneath the top part of the grab handle? Also if there's speakers (front only I think) then there's some self tappers around that area too.

Then there's the poppers as Will said - bit like the CX ones on the S1 doorcards Greame! Sure you've got experience of those...!

Might be totally useless information if the S1 cars are different...

[Aerodynamica]

No, it's good information coz this has happened in the dark! I'll wait till the weekend to have a look but no doubt it'll be new window mechanisms all round...

[Dieselman]

Franklin,
Thanks for the reminder of the screws, you are correct.

Graeme,
This is a series 1 car so not much risk of the window mechanism being faulty.

[Aerodynamica]

Really? I thought they were all prone to the cables going twang and the thing dropping. It might then be corroded cables jamming up. Oddly, the sunroof tilts and slides very well and to preempt any issues with it I'd oiled and greased the runners.

All three (well two now) of the functioning windows work but are slow and noisy. The Xantia (same age, double the miles) has 4 windows that shoot up strongly and silently at the touch of the button, also the sunroof tilts and slides with confidence.. It's like the Xantia has better mechanisms and way superior switches. Wish they'd changed the XM to use similar components for the largely Xantia-influenced Mk 1.5

Also, the problem with the wash wipe has returned - seems to be where the washer hasn't been used for a while (say 24h). It doesn't operate the washer jets or the 4 wipes when pulled back yet the other operations/ speeds function. Sometimes it'll operater the washer jets but not the wipers unless I slightly pull down on the stalk while pulling it back whereupon it tends to work fully. Strip down and rebuild.

Still, at least the " rear stop lamp onop " has stopped coming up... Yes, the rear stop lamp actually was out!

[Dieselman]

Really? I thought they were all prone to the cables going twang and the thing dropping.

All three (well two now) of the functioning windows work but are slow and noisy.

That sounds like the clips are broken.

[Aerodynamica]

Goddddd, this car looks clean and straight, engine bay looks like its about a year old but it is trying my enthusiasm!

It started instantly this morning -as it always does since changing the plugs- and after a short wait, I set off. It reached about 400m and lost power for a few seconds at a residential junction. Was like it had temporarily chosen too high a gear but think it had lost power.

It cleared and continued the 14 mile journey with no issues. It makes me think "air in fuel" as the fuel heater is still used and nothing has been replaced at the filter. I might see about revamping the fuel line with 10mm copper pipe and a different filter and housing. Any thoughts on this? What alternative filter and housing would work.
I already have a new priming bulb bought for this very job.

Either that or the auto box is fagged and it was actually selecting too high a gear for stationary (can that happen?) But I don't know enough about autos to throw an educated guess at it.

[xmexclusive]

For now stick the priming bulb in the existing fuel line well before the filter.
The inbuilt one way valve will stop any drain back to the tank though this does not seem to be your problem.
You can use the bulb to build up pressure in the pipework and filter.
Diesel will then bubble out at the site of any air leaks.

Rebuilding the lot without knowing whats actually wrong could waste a lot of time and effort and may not even get a result.

John

[Aerodynamica]

Fair doos, but is it not inevitable that it'll leak from all of the usual spots eventually? The fuel heater is still connected.