Wanted: motor for driver side window

[XMX]

XMX is not quite right about the 9 pin winders.
The one in Robert's auction photo is the middle one of the 3 types Citroen fitted.
Identifiable by the PSA red slide locking plug. This was fitted from sometime in 1995 until late 1996.
The earlier type uses the same pinning but has different polarisation slots and the locking is a thin Citroen spring wire.

John

John can you be more specific why you think my posting is INCORRECT (Read thro' Roberts E-Bay item carefully again) , as IMHO your /\ comment does not make sense

Citroen XM drivers side front electric window regulator. Please note that there are two different variants for series 2 cars with one touch functions. There is a push on wiring plug with a wire securing clip as pictures immediately below. Typically from an earlier series 2 car. Later variants plug uses a read slider to lock the plug in place. Typically from later cars. Please check which one your car has. This auction is for the earlier type without the red slider plug.

So as it wasn't the type with a the 'Red Sliding/Cam lock' plug, Roberts was the type with a push on Female plug which is retained by a S/S spring/clip !

As per stated in my quote (below) it Purely refers to the '9-Pin type' which can be one of two types !

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So the best information currently available with photo's (IMHO) for you to decipher the '9 pins types' is from
Robert's recently sold/completed E-BAY listing's (Which was usually for the early model fitments) !
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XMX

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The reason I linked up to Roberts E-bay listing was to make it easier for 'Penny' (or the garage) to decipher which type it might be (If indeed its a VSX/Exclusive model) and for no other reason !

But then again its all been discussed before (just like many of the other common reoccurring XM problems) as in THIS thread (also check out my post in that link post #10 with further links) to window regulator problems, in which I suggested this topic/problem to be made into a 'Sticky' !



XMX

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[Penny]

Wow. Such a kind helpful bunch of people. No wonder I want to keep my XM against the advise of all the garages I have used. I want to get it back to a reasonable state of repair, but have had problems getting anyone to agree to work on it. It still drives beautifully and I want to keep it running. Would rather spend my money on it than on getting another car. Yes my car is a 1995 VSX. Have had the car since 2000 and use it every day.
I have read all responses with interest and copied the pic from E-bay. Thanks for all the info. Very much appreciated. The driver's window made a grinding sort of noise before it stopped working altogether. I have had a wooden block put in by the AA to close a broken window before and watched it done, but never had to put one in myself yet, but useful to have info to hand.

I also have had a non-functioning sunroof for more years than I care to remember. Currently am having to start it by touching a wire (left permanently connected to what I think is the starter motor relay) to the positive terminal of my battery.
A day or so ago one of the hydrolics that hold up the boot died on me by falling off its bottom fixer and then getting bent when I didn't notice and tried to close the boot. I had to remove it before I could close the boot.

I am going to go to try BL Autos as recommended by members and it is near to me, may not be able to get there until I take a day off next week as work in London and would not usually be able to get there in normal working hours. I would be happy to learn to fix things myself, but no experience and no one with any mechanical or electrical experience (and tools) that I could call on to be around to help.

I would appreciate any thoughts from Forum members re other things that need addressing at some point as detailed below, as to their seriousness and ease of fixing.
My latest MOT (which it passed at the end of March this year), said it had a few problems:
Front sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened
Nearside rear (offside rear) Suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive
Nearside front (sub-frame mounting area) Steering component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive
Nearside front (strut return pipe) Fluid suspension unit slightly deteriorated
Offside front (strut return pipe) Fluid suspension unit slightly deteriorated
Nearside front and offside front parking brake cables are damaged.

Thanks again to all who have responded so far.

[xmexclusive]

Hi Penny

The rust problems are the main risk to the long term life of the car.
All are common rust problem spots on similar age XM's.
Get the front subframe welded well before the next MOT.
Some testers can be funny about welds on suspension items.
Most of the rest of the items are fairly easy and cheap for those of us that have done one previously.
No doubt some of us will list out how the jobs are done.

John

[Dieselman]

The subframes may nnot need welding, possibly just a clean up, paint and some rust-proofing wax applied.

The rear corrosion sounds like the subframe mount plate, which will need welding if not dealt with soon.

See:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3655

The starter motor is probably the relay or neutral selection switch.

Where are you? We had a member called Broyty, who I'm sure was Essex direction and had a repair garage.

As John said, the other bits are minor detail.

[Penny]

Thanks to all, much appreciated. I am in Luton area. Could travel to Essex.

[Dieselman]

There's probably someone closer to Luton, it just hadn't sunk in where you were.