Battlescar - now scrapping 2.1 TD Mk 2 Auto

[Geoff Lebowski]

Sadly, after massive amounts of work on Battlescar, she has to go. It's offered on a spairs or repair basis due to GEARBOX PROBLEM
XM Mk 2 96 P 2.1TD Auto with Epic in Silver
I'll be brief with my description for now:
Good points:
all new spheres (except anti sink)
New head gasket
Full major service under 2000 miles ago inc cambelt, tensioners, coolant, hydraflush, all filters
Hydra flush in system presently
All brakes have been bled and give good performance
Lovely condition black leather interior, the rear seats have wiring looms which I assume is heated rear seats - backs and base. Came from a donor car so it's not wired up. I think the fronts are heated too but again, not connected, so I can't verify if they work
Sub 2000 miles discs and pads
Engine is sound although suffers mild cold start coughing. Prolonged cranking at cold start is now resolved.
New 'Swedish flatpack style' strut tops
MOT till December
front electric windows work. The rears do too but come out of the guides.
electric arm rest
The not so good points:
Was bought with no service history and was in a bad state - engine oil/gearbox oil and LHM were all black!!!!!!
A little tatty on the front bumper and a crack in the nose cone
A dent in one or possibly two of the doors
The joint on the CAT has failed and so the exhaust has dropped. The rest of the system is good, with a recent new cross box (aftermarket)
Cruise control doesn't work
AUTOBOX: On a short 2 mile journey where the gearbox hardly gets warm, the car works fine. But, get the autobox hot and she temporarily looses some/all forward gears. Within a minute, normal operation occurs. This isn't due to oil level which is correct. Whilst the oil is clean, I did see a shard of metal on the end of the dipstick, which probably spells the end of the box but I honestly don't know. I wouldn't like to trust it on a long drive but possibly letting the box cool for a bit and carrying on may get you home......slowly.
In the past she has had a bash and the two o/s doors have been replaced. However the doors have dropped slightly and rub the kicking strips.
It had a hole and rusty section which i have repaired - this was done before the MOT and so is considered a job well done
Water gets in somewhere but since taping up the sunroof she's been bone dry
a/c needs gassing.
dot matrix disply is dead

I have all the receipts to show work done by Charlie and myself since purchase around 3 or 4 years ago.

Being really honest here, if you want an immaculate or even very good condition car - this one ain't for you unless you want to spend £££ and time.
If you want a tatty but luxury work horse then this would be ideal - but you'd have to sort the gearbox out.

Sadly, she's worth more in spares but I haven't the time nor inclination to rip her to bits, but, she may be of value to someone who runs a car business where she can either be fettled at will or used as a donor. There are lots of useful parts on her so if a few others survive and improve, it may be the best use of her. Sad really but despite our best efforts, she seems to have a death wish!
I will also throw in a hoard of Xantia spares in the boot for the value of it's scrap, inc 2 year old nissens rad and Xantia Exc Alloy wheels, rear struts, drive shafts, ML5T gearbox + lots lots more.

I'm open to offers..........go on surprise me!!

[messerschmitt owner]

Geoff
not for me just now but might be an idea to give a location.

Do like the sound of the leather interior though!

Campbell

[Dieselman]

New 'Swedish flatpack style' strut tops



I will also throw in a hoard of Xantia spares in the boot for the value of it's scrap, inc 2 year old nissens rad and Xantia Exc Alloy wheels, rear struts,I'm open to offers..........go on surprise me!!

What, if anything did the MOT examiner say about the strut tops?

If you have a spare strut, or anything that a sphere can screw onto I would be interested for making a pressure tester. Any spare piping too.

[messerschmitt owner]

New 'Swedish flatpack style' strut tops



I will also throw in a hoard of Xantia spares in the boot for the value of it's scrap, inc 2 year old nissens rad and Xantia Exc Alloy wheels, rear struts,I'm open to offers..........go on surprise me!!

What, if anything did the MOT examiner say about the strut tops?

If you have a spare strut, or anything that a sphere can screw onto I would be interested for making a pressure tester. Any spare piping too.

Will

it's on my list!
along with the strut tops ...

Campbell

[Dieselman]

Thanks Campbell, I know you are pushed for time though.

[messerschmitt owner]

Thanks Campbell, I know you are pushed for time though.

Will, not wanting to poach Geoff's thread, I'll be saving what I can - over the course of this week a lot will be coming off - it'll be ancillaries that are either too good to scrap or easy to get off that will be coming off it - the HP pump is easy to dismantle and I know ALL strut tops regardless of condition need rescued. Tomorrow is the day it runs for the last time, as I jack it up onto axle stands. Then I can run round removing little bits like relays.

[Geoff Lebowski]

Ahh good point - I'm about 10 miles north west of Cardiff.

If I'm going to break her, then it needs to be quick and painless! Or at least, all interior stuff that anyone wants can be done over a week or so but as soon is starts to look less like a car from an external point of view I need to be quick, as in 2 days and then she's gone.

As an example, I can get £80 for the engine from the scrap man!!!! Ludicrous really. The auto box will probably be about half that maybe.

I'm happy to remove stuff for people with specific requests, some bits I'll be keeping myself for my dads XM but I don't have the space to store parts for keeps sake.

Any advice on rareties or not to be scrapped items greatly appreciated.

The strut tops are the ones made in Sweden. A 3mm (I think) plate construction that you assemble around the top of the strut and bolt in place. It was advised to also tack weld the two halves together for a bit of extra strength. They were supplied with a small amount of Gorilla Glue to bond the part that sits under the strut top. I'm currently undecided to sell or keep these.

[messerschmitt owner]

Geoff, I'd be keen on the engine and leather.

[Dieselman]

. It was advised to also tack weld the two halves together for a bit of extra strength.

Was that by the MOT tester?

I'm curious as to their view of these repairs.

Were the original plates completely knackered and were they removed from the rubber before fitting the new plates?

[Geoff Lebowski]

Ok, I'll 'put them to one side' for you.

The drivers back and forth electric switch only moves back - I know it's not the motor as I had to move it forward again and managed to connect the terminals in the conn block. The switch may be mendable but assume not for now - I'll have a look.

On the engine, I shall be removing the glow plugs as they are new and had half an eye on the turbo for a 'project'! Let me know if that poses a problem