The metal to use as slip sheets arrived, so I used the 0.02mm (20 micron) stainless steel sheet to help install the rubber bearing block seals.
I had ordered 0.02, 0.03, 0.04mm, but thought the thinnest would be best, as long as it was durable enough. The clearance toward the top of the bearing block and aperture is very tight.
I cleaned the bearing block with brake cleaner, then installed the L shaped seals to the block, I also cleaned the engine block and added a trace of HT silicone to the top corners, only towards the outside, where the bearing block has champers. The rubber L seal is meant to seal, but I noticed there was silicone there originally.
I lubricated the bearing block sides and inside the engine block with engine oil, keeping away from the area the silicone was added. I cut two metal slip sheets, lubricated both sides and wrapped them round the edge of the bearing block and rubber seals, pushing the seals into the V section.
Using the slip sheets as guides I pushed and wiggled the bearing block into the engine block, ensuring the slip sheets went up with the seals to ensure they didn't become stretched. The slip sheets also stopped the rubber L seals from being cut by the sharp corner of the engine block.
I then teased the slip sheets out sideways so as to not pull down on the rubber seals. These are the thickness of kitchen foil, but made of stainless steel for durability.
I could see a little silicone had squeezed out of the joint so am satisfied it has been compressed.
I bolted the bearing cap, stage 1 is 20Nm, stage 2 is 60 degrees.
There isn't much L seal compression, so I cleaned any oil out using low pressure brake cleaner, then added silicone into the outside clearances, where I could, firstly by injecting it by the end of the seal, then also squeezing it into the joint.
I wasn't comfortable with having used non-setting gasket sealer where the oil pump joins the block, so removed the oil pump, cleaned the sealer off both surfaces, degreased and re-installed the pump.
Having a metal to metal joint seems odd, but it is as designed. The pump is made from aluminium, so probably deforms slightly when being bolted up to the cast iron engine block and the bolt nearest the oil feed port is shanked to hold that section very stable.
While the sealant in the bearing block was drying I cleaned the sump flange ready for re-fitting. I then cut the rubber L seals off using a 0.25mm thick shim and sharp knife blade, to achieve 0.3mm projection.
When fitting the sump I added silicone to any engine block joints and the gasket to sump join, as the steel sump flange isn't perfectly flat.
I used non-setting gasket sealant on the gasket to engine block joint.
Non setting gasket sealant is only meant for use on gasket fibres.
2 * 2.1 SD
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Dieselman
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Re: 2 * 2.1 SD
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Dieselman
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Re: 2 * 2.1 SD
I fitted a new crank seal and had a bit of an issue in so much as it pressed a bit too far into the housing at the top, so I then needed to set it all in a bit too far...approx. 2mm, which I think will be fine as it is still running on the polished journal.
I tried to pull it back out using a plastic sheet with a nib sticking out, but to no avail. I think this happened as a result of applying a thin smear of silicone to the outer rim and that acting as a lubricant during installation. The top pushed in as I was trying to press the bottom of the seal into the housing, not helped by access being poor with the gearbox in the way.
If I had installed the crank seal prior to fitting the sump I could have pushed it back out via the main bearing block drain hole.
I fitted the flywheel and clutch, remembering to clean the flywheel bolts thoroughly and apply threadloc to seal them.
I re-fitted the gearbox, connected the linkages and installed the speedometer cable.
I had removed the gearbox mount as a single piece and installed it the same. It would probably have been quicker to disassemble it, as access to the gearbox and body mount bolts would have been much easier and it would have been quicker to align to the body and battery tray, for bolting together.
It's the first time I have taken it out as one and I won't do it like that again.
Mounting bolt access
Gearbox mount as one unit. I would suggest removing the rubber mount, installing the gearbox mounting, then the body one and then re-install the rubber mount.
I refitted the hydraulic hose bracket, ensuring it was correctly positioned. It is very easy to be confused by this.
Lastly I fitted the reverse lamp connector, the engine connector bracket, battery negative lead to the gearbox and pulled the clutch cable into the mount and arm. As long as the clutch pedal hasn't been depressed the cable will pull freely through the self adjuster. Tip. Block the clutch pedal to stop accidental depression.
I tried to pull it back out using a plastic sheet with a nib sticking out, but to no avail. I think this happened as a result of applying a thin smear of silicone to the outer rim and that acting as a lubricant during installation. The top pushed in as I was trying to press the bottom of the seal into the housing, not helped by access being poor with the gearbox in the way.
If I had installed the crank seal prior to fitting the sump I could have pushed it back out via the main bearing block drain hole.
I fitted the flywheel and clutch, remembering to clean the flywheel bolts thoroughly and apply threadloc to seal them.
I re-fitted the gearbox, connected the linkages and installed the speedometer cable.
I had removed the gearbox mount as a single piece and installed it the same. It would probably have been quicker to disassemble it, as access to the gearbox and body mount bolts would have been much easier and it would have been quicker to align to the body and battery tray, for bolting together.
It's the first time I have taken it out as one and I won't do it like that again.
Mounting bolt access
Gearbox mount as one unit. I would suggest removing the rubber mount, installing the gearbox mounting, then the body one and then re-install the rubber mount.
I refitted the hydraulic hose bracket, ensuring it was correctly positioned. It is very easy to be confused by this.
Lastly I fitted the reverse lamp connector, the engine connector bracket, battery negative lead to the gearbox and pulled the clutch cable into the mount and arm. As long as the clutch pedal hasn't been depressed the cable will pull freely through the self adjuster. Tip. Block the clutch pedal to stop accidental depression.
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92 3.0 V6-24. 5713 EXY Black
92 2.1 sd M. 5685 ENT Blue Sideral
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Dieselman
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Re: 2 * 2.1 SD
I needed to install the driveshafts before filling the gearbox with oil.
Electing to not undo the steering track rod end at disassembly I found it easiest to use a wood prop to keep the hub spaced from the subframe, to give easy access to post the driveshaft in. I also placed a wood board to support the driveshaft to reduce risk of the rubber boot being damaged during installation. The right side has the extension shaft with a bearing held in by L shaped retainer bolts. Ensure these bolts heads are turned out of the way to allow the bearing to be inserted into the housing.
I fed the driveshaft into the differential being careful to not touch the oil seals, especially since they were new last year.
Pull the bearing completely into the intermediate mount, turn the bolts while gently pulling, to seat the L shaped heads into their seats, retaining the bearing. Tighten the nuts.
I greased the splines with a wipe of copper grease to stop fretting corrosion when they were in use in the hub, then installed the shaft into the hub.
The red dust often seen on driveshaft splines and hub bearings is corrosion from the driveshaft splines fretting as they rotate.
After fitting the lower ball joint and track control arm together I couldn't create sufficient friction in the taper for the nut to tighten, even after propping the arm up to increase pressure on the taper.
The solution was to remove the nut and lubricate the threads with a drop of oil. The nut then wound straight on, without issue. This is why threads are normally specified to be lubricated when tightening to torque.
On the Me5T gearbox there is a gearbox filler/level plug on the end, accessed via the left wheel-house, but I chose to not use this as the car wasn't level and it's easier to add the 1.85 litres via the taper plug on the front of the gearbox.
Be aware the aluminium taper plugs can bind into the housing and may need to be destroyed to remove it. When refitting I smeared with copper grease and tightened only sufficiently for it to be retained. P# 2208 20.
I filled the engine with 5L of oil and as I wanted to crank it while observing the oil pressure light operated the engine shutoff lever and wedged it using a screwdriver handle.
I had used engine assembly lubricant on all the bearings, so rotation would be lubricated, but I didn't want the engine to fire before oil was circulating, otherwise the bearings might be subjected to shock load.
I had removed the hydraulic pump drive belt as the regulator and Fdv are hanging loose and the system is open.
After two full 10 second starter operations the oil pressure lamp was still illuminated, but went out during the next starter burst. I then removed the screwdriver and fired the engine, and other than some oil spilling out of the open, due to rapid filling overwhelming the fill/breather decanter and filling the breather pipe, all seems well.
I re-installed the crank sensor, which was a bit fiddly as the air intake pipes were still fitted. A smear of silicone grease really helped with installation.
Having removed the sensor from the plastic mount meant I had to set the clearance and the paint mark had rubbed off...
I pushed the sensor down until it made contact with the flywheel, then pried it up only a little by twisting a flat bladed screwdriver under it.
The rev counter works so the sensor is set correctly. It only serves the rev counter on this car, as it's a mechanical fuel injection system.
Tighten the screw to hold the sensor in place.
During disassembly, if I had removed the air intake duct I would have unbolted the sensor mounting to save setting the clearance, but with the duct in place, access is awkward.
Having cleaned the Lhm filters last year I didn't expect them to be dirty, but as the opportunity presented itself I checked.
A splash of petrol and a small brush later.
Filters and reservoir back in.
I took the opportunity to go under the car and grease the gear linkage ball joints and the link under the gear-stick. People neglect this and they seize and can eventually snap the linkage.
I also greased all the height corrector and setting linkages and pivots.
If you want something to move either now, or sometime in the future...grease it.
As an aside I compared the new bearing block seals with the old ones. The new ones are round, the old ones trapezial, but I don't know if that is a result of 34 years of compression. They have gone very hard.
The original p# is 0127.05, superseded by 0127.40, of which I used genuine Peugeot ones.
0127.05 are available aftermarket, but don't appear noticeably different, though no specs are given.
Edit:
Having been searching through part numbers I believe the difference between 0127.05 and 0127.40 is the later ones are longer, at 70mm, but otherwise the same.
Electing to not undo the steering track rod end at disassembly I found it easiest to use a wood prop to keep the hub spaced from the subframe, to give easy access to post the driveshaft in. I also placed a wood board to support the driveshaft to reduce risk of the rubber boot being damaged during installation. The right side has the extension shaft with a bearing held in by L shaped retainer bolts. Ensure these bolts heads are turned out of the way to allow the bearing to be inserted into the housing.
I fed the driveshaft into the differential being careful to not touch the oil seals, especially since they were new last year.
Pull the bearing completely into the intermediate mount, turn the bolts while gently pulling, to seat the L shaped heads into their seats, retaining the bearing. Tighten the nuts.
I greased the splines with a wipe of copper grease to stop fretting corrosion when they were in use in the hub, then installed the shaft into the hub.
The red dust often seen on driveshaft splines and hub bearings is corrosion from the driveshaft splines fretting as they rotate.
After fitting the lower ball joint and track control arm together I couldn't create sufficient friction in the taper for the nut to tighten, even after propping the arm up to increase pressure on the taper.
The solution was to remove the nut and lubricate the threads with a drop of oil. The nut then wound straight on, without issue. This is why threads are normally specified to be lubricated when tightening to torque.
On the Me5T gearbox there is a gearbox filler/level plug on the end, accessed via the left wheel-house, but I chose to not use this as the car wasn't level and it's easier to add the 1.85 litres via the taper plug on the front of the gearbox.
Be aware the aluminium taper plugs can bind into the housing and may need to be destroyed to remove it. When refitting I smeared with copper grease and tightened only sufficiently for it to be retained. P# 2208 20.
I filled the engine with 5L of oil and as I wanted to crank it while observing the oil pressure light operated the engine shutoff lever and wedged it using a screwdriver handle.
I had used engine assembly lubricant on all the bearings, so rotation would be lubricated, but I didn't want the engine to fire before oil was circulating, otherwise the bearings might be subjected to shock load.
I had removed the hydraulic pump drive belt as the regulator and Fdv are hanging loose and the system is open.
After two full 10 second starter operations the oil pressure lamp was still illuminated, but went out during the next starter burst. I then removed the screwdriver and fired the engine, and other than some oil spilling out of the open, due to rapid filling overwhelming the fill/breather decanter and filling the breather pipe, all seems well.
I re-installed the crank sensor, which was a bit fiddly as the air intake pipes were still fitted. A smear of silicone grease really helped with installation.
Having removed the sensor from the plastic mount meant I had to set the clearance and the paint mark had rubbed off...
I pushed the sensor down until it made contact with the flywheel, then pried it up only a little by twisting a flat bladed screwdriver under it.
The rev counter works so the sensor is set correctly. It only serves the rev counter on this car, as it's a mechanical fuel injection system.
Tighten the screw to hold the sensor in place.
During disassembly, if I had removed the air intake duct I would have unbolted the sensor mounting to save setting the clearance, but with the duct in place, access is awkward.
Having cleaned the Lhm filters last year I didn't expect them to be dirty, but as the opportunity presented itself I checked.
A splash of petrol and a small brush later.
Filters and reservoir back in.
I took the opportunity to go under the car and grease the gear linkage ball joints and the link under the gear-stick. People neglect this and they seize and can eventually snap the linkage.
I also greased all the height corrector and setting linkages and pivots.
If you want something to move either now, or sometime in the future...grease it.
As an aside I compared the new bearing block seals with the old ones. The new ones are round, the old ones trapezial, but I don't know if that is a result of 34 years of compression. They have gone very hard.
The original p# is 0127.05, superseded by 0127.40, of which I used genuine Peugeot ones.
0127.05 are available aftermarket, but don't appear noticeably different, though no specs are given.
Edit:
Having been searching through part numbers I believe the difference between 0127.05 and 0127.40 is the later ones are longer, at 70mm, but otherwise the same.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
91 3.0 sei M. 4852 EXY Black
92 2.1 sed M. 5740 ECZ Sable Phenicien
92 3.0 V6-24. 5713 EXY Black
92 2.1 sd M. 5685 ENT Blue Sideral
Prev
90 2.1sd M. 5049 EJV Mandarin
92 2.1sd A. 5698 EJV Mandarin
94 2.1sd A. 6218 ERT Triton
91 2.0si M. 5187 EWT White
92 2.1 sed M. 5740 ECZ Sable Phenicien
92 3.0 V6-24. 5713 EXY Black
92 2.1 sd M. 5685 ENT Blue Sideral
Prev
90 2.1sd M. 5049 EJV Mandarin
92 2.1sd A. 5698 EJV Mandarin
94 2.1sd A. 6218 ERT Triton
91 2.0si M. 5187 EWT White