1998 2.1 VSX Auto new project

[Citjon]

Rear spheres finally changed today after quite a struggle. I'm ashamed to say I resorted to butchering one with the cold chisel and big hammer. To stop the cylinders spinning I used a U clamp bolted to a bit of angle iron.

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Strangely the pressure was off the scale when I checked them (100 bar+). My tester doesn't hold much LHM so I don't think it was filling them, although they were squirting it back out after. The new IFHS ones I fitted measured 35, which is slightly over the 30 they're supposed to be. At least it proves the tester holds pressure!

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Now for some more welding!

[Dieselman]

Excess pressure and fluid squirting out is a classic sign of long term, ruptured spheres.
The volume behind the membrane is already full of oil so the small amount you add pressurises this. Try unscrewing the filling plug, oil will drain out.

It's all looking very clean and red under there.

I'm confident the new spheres will be correctly pressurised, so it appears your tester gauge reads 5Bar over. If you have a known good sphere note the pressure, it can be compared to other testers.

Do you have a proper sphere removal tool, I've never known a sphere not be released when using one. The most difficult one I had was the HA sphere on a scrap rear subframe, which hadn't been depressurised before disconnection. The bracket was bending and needed counter-holding, but the sphere did come off.

You made a neat cylinder counter-hold tool there, what size clamp is it? Did you need that, or was it precautionary? Is the cylinder locking peg still in existence, or has it rusted away?
Had you let the suspension down and depressurised first.
I know the theory of having the suspension set to high to friction lock the cylinder, but in my experience, once the suspension is low and depressurised, the spheres usually unscrew easily.
I have also noted that if you apply grease to the mating surfaces of the sphere and cylinder, they really do unscrew easily next time.

[Citjon]

I left the old spheres to drain overnight and both tuna tins were brimming with LHM this morning, so yes they were full of it.

I'd already tried to remove the nearside but it wasn't having it and bent the lock pin retaining lug. So I knew it was going to put up a fight. The clamp is 52mm, I made small cuts on the inside edge with a hacksaw to help it grip. Whoever fitted the spheres must have really nipped them up.

I do need to get (or make) a band type tool for doing the 2 centre spheres on this car.

[Dieselman]

Thanks for the clamp size.

To make a really strong removal tool, cut the centre straight section out of a dead sphere to use as your band. You will need to add another short length to reach right round the spheres.
Ensure the nut is at least double normal length to spread the load along as many threads as possible, in case you need to really tighten it.

When adding a handle, don't forget to add a brace, otherwise the band will twist at the weld. Add the brace to the brace to the opposite side of the handle to the bolt/stud.

[Citjon]

After many hours of welding, including an all night stint before the MOT, it eventually passed on 6th September. It failed initially on an indicator bulb and blocked screen wash jet so that was soon sorted. Changed the gearbox oil / fuel filter and drove 130 miles to Chevrons on the Sunday without issue.

I've been using it daily since the test and have now replaced both centre spheres. As I suspected neither held much pressure and the ride is greatly improved. The current front spheres are Amtec so will need changing again at some point.

Reliability (touch wood) has been OK so far despite the 160k mileage and standing for 9 years. It's had the dreaded ignition key / non starting issue but that was traced to poor contact at the battery terminals.

I won't post all the welding photos as it would probably crash the forum

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[Dieselman]

LOL. More "Gone with the wind" than "Gone in Sixty seconds".

Other than the now sorted rust, this appears to be a really good car. You've done a good job taking that one from rust to the road.

[Citjon]

I've clocked up about 1200 miles since the MOT and have just treated it to another gearbox and engine oil change. It's definitely running better on the new fluids but there are a few niggling faults to work through. The driver's door switch wasn't activating the interior lights, I removed it to find evidence of mice habitation. It looks like the only damage around the B post was the door switch wire, although there are some issues with the armrest not working, possibly related.

Another ongoing problem is the starter occasionally just clicking. The solenoid always activates so I'm thinking it is probably poor contacts or worn brushes. It has always started but sometimes it takes 5 or 6 goes, which is a bit worrying.

I had a quote of £2k for tidying up the paintwork including the roof, bonnet front wings and nose cone. Given the mileage and lower value of S2 cars I can't justify that at the moment, but might have a go at prepping it myself and getting a mate to spray it. That works out around £500 for paint and materials so much more viable.

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[Dieselman]

Assuming the starter issue isn't a poor battery connection, you will probably find stripping and cleaning the starter will fix it.
I had one doing the same and turning slowly. On stripping it, I was surprised at how good the internal condition was.

I think the DIY paint-job is the way to go, unless you want it to be show car appearance.

[Flegmaatikko]

I bet it's the relay socket for the transmission relay. The previous owner ran "an emergency wire" straight from the starter to start it, so the problem must have been there for quite a while. I usually didn't have time to diagnose it when it was acting up, but spraying contact cleaner on the socket seemed to help, so I bet that's where the problem lies.

[Citjon]

I bet it's the relay socket for the transmission relay. The previous owner ran "an emergency wire" straight from the starter to start it, so the problem must have been there for quite a while. I usually didn't have time to diagnose it when it was acting up, but spraying contact cleaner on the socket seemed to help, so I bet that's where the problem lies.

That's interesting, I'll add it to the list of things to check. There is a heavy clunk though, which leads me to think the relays / ignition switch are getting power to the solenoid.