1998 2.1 VSX Auto new project

[Citjon]

I decided to have a go at loosening the 3 rear spheres before refitting the exhaust, but they are all absolutely seized solid. I tried whacking them with a hammer, suspension pressurised and in high but they weren't having it. Centre one started twisting the bracket round and the other 2 were spinning the cylinders. Is there anything else to try before I start removing things?

Adding to my woes a puddle of LHM appeared at the nearside front while I was refitting the exhaust. First thought was strut return pipe but it's not that. It looks to be coming from under the hydraulic reservoir so will remove that and investigate further.

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While I was looking for the leak I noticed that the rack gaiter was split. Another joyful job added to the list... along with the handbrake cable.

The question is do I try doing it in situ (which worked on my 2.0 petrol) or do I remove the rack?

[Dieselman]

If it's just a gaiter you can do it in situ, best to ue a clip on type gaiter.
Extend the rack on the left side, grip the flat section with a flat, adjustable spanner and unscrew the track rod.
Disconnect both ends of the hydraulic ram and pry off the stub.

By heating the gaiter a little you can then push it over the stub onto the rack. Manipulate it into position.
I find it best to add a ty-wrap to the clip on gaiters as they tend to come off when the rack is fully extended.

As long as the rear corner rams have their locating dowels intact and located, you should be able to remove them with the system depressurised, which should unlock the threads.
The centre sphere may still have pressure holding it on, so try lowering the car with the engine running, then open the bleed bolt, then switch off the engine.

If you are using a strap wrench to remove the spheres switch to a metal band wrench, as it transfers all the force you are applying.

Going back to your previous post, Xm weren't painted in colour underneath, the paint you see is overspray.
I thought your welding of that plate was very neatly done.

[citroenxm]

I agree with Will.. increadble detail. I've a long way to go before I get to that level... very good indeed.

Nearside gaiters can be a pita because of the pas ram spigot.. when the 2.1td needed them I actually had the engine out and opted to swap the whole rack out as boots I had got were the usuall incorrect ones and wouldn't work..

[Dieselman]

I found a pair of used front spheres still showing 55 bar so have fitted them. Taking the old ones off required a 3' long bar as they were so over tightened.

They must be Hydractive 1, 2.0 petrol, or 2.1 atmo-diesel spheres, so 400cc, not the 450cc of Hydractive 2 spheres.
Hydractive 1 2.1Td spheres would be 400cc @ 50 Bar, Hydractive 2 are 450CC @ 50 Bar.

They will perform very similarly as the additional gas pressure increases the effective volume though the 55 Bar spheres have a slightly smaller damper oriface as the Hydractive 2 spheres.
Hydractive 2 cars were definitely set towards a more comfort orientated ride than Hydractive 1, especially when in hard mode.

Too late now, but if you have the rear subframe out and need to change the spheres, do it while the subframe is out, no point struggling when under the car.
I've only ever had one centre sphere jammed on hard enough to bend the bracket, but brute force and shock eventually removed it.
If the bracket is bending, be careful to not bend the suspension feed pipes too much.

[Citjon]

I definitely need to invest in (or make) a steel band wrench as my chain strap is now knackered. I'd always thought it was best to give spheres a 1/4 turn before dropping the pressure?

The 'new' front spheres looked slightly smaller so that would explain the difference. I'll see how it drives compared to the S1, which to me feels quite soft in normal mode. There are recharge valves on the old spheres so they might be useable (if I can find someone to regas them ).

With the LHM reservoir removed the leak appeared to be a loose rubber to steel return pipe on the inside of the chassis leg. The engine bay is certainly very well packed after working on the non-ABS petrol 2 litre. I can see where the reputation for being overly complex and difficult to work on comes from, not that it will put me off!

Thanks for the compliments, I'm trying not to get too carried away otherwise it will never be finished .

[citroenxm]

I have a surplus sphere tool you can have jon. .

[Dieselman]

If it's just a gaiter you can do it in situ, best to ue a clip on type gaiter.
Extend the rack on the left side, grip the flat section with a flat, adjustable spanner and unscrew the track rod.

I've reviewed my own post and need to change the underlinied section.

For the passenger side, rather than extending the rack a long way before the rack is exposed, keep it shorter and counter-hold the ram bush with a spanner over the stub.

This reduces any risk of the shaft bending.

[Citjon]

Sasic gaiter is on order, thanks again for the advice above.

Gave it a quick wash and from a distance realised it is sitting low at the back. Rear wheelarch height is 15mm lower than my S1, which sits level. Front end heights were about the same.

I know that's not the official way to check but I don't have access to a ramp. I will try jacking it up and adjusting the height corrector linkage.

Photos for comparison below (both engines running).

It's surprising how much difference 15mm makes!

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[Dieselman]

It's all that stuff in the back weighing it down.


You can set the height by measuring the height, driving up a pair of ramps, measuring the height again, adjust the difference, move to flat surface and measure again.
It takes a few goes but you learn to compensate the adjustment amount to accomodate the car being unlevel due to being on ramps one end.

Alternatively, prop scaffold boards onto piles, drive the complete car onto the boards and crawl underneath the now level, raised, car.

Is your grey car fractionally high at the front. Needs to be measured with the engine running, otherwise it will sit slightly nose up once exiting the car.

Be aware the Sasic drivers side gaiters are no longer thermoplastic, but neoprene. They are more awkward to install and I suspect won't last as long. The easiest method is to be to remove the body attitude sensor and unclip the steering valve heat shield, that way you have enough access for your hand to manipulate the gaiter onto the rack.

[Citjon]

Thanks Will I'd not thought of that but I've got a pair of ramps. I keep thinking about making a set of wheel cribs from stacks of 4 x 2, which would also work.

I haven't looked at the driver's side gaiter yet but I note your comments about the change in material.

The rear silencer is for an estate and has been hacked off (not by me). It sits quite high relative to the bumper so I wondered if one of these tail pipes would suit?

I can trim the end off a bit more if needed.

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About the sphere tool - I forgot to say thanks for the offer Paul, that is very kind of you.