1998 2.1 VSX Auto new project

[Dieselman]

The tail pipe will work, as the difference between a saloon and estate rear box is the length of straight pipe before the downturn of the tailpipe.

As for jacking up level on level ground;
Run the front up some ramps and apply the park brake, raise the suspension, use a trolley jack and spreader plank (a joist offcut) to lift the rear of the car, place cribs, lower the wheels and the car.
Note the wheelbase will lengthen as the car sinks.

[Citjon]

Make that both parking brake cables and both steering rack gaiters...

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Is it easy to change the cables? The parking brake seems to work OK so I could just tape them up for now.

[Dieselman]

Changing cables is easy, they just self-clip into the equaliser by pushing the inner cable in until it clicks into place.
Removing the old cable requires it to be relaxed and using your fingers reach in and push the nipple out of the respective equaliser position, then pull the outer sheath. Push up for the upper position, down for the lower one.
This is well covered in the Haynes manual.

Technically, as long as the inner cable isn't frayed and binding, you could sheath the outside of the cable. I would use either plastic sheath, or shrink tube.
Xm tend to damage the outer cable sheath due to being front wheel parking brake and having a tight steering lock.
Ensure the suppoprt ring doesn't have a sharp edge cutting the cable sheath.

For the steering rack gaiters, your car will have the later, thicker track rods, so needs:
406642 for drivers side
406630 for passenger side.

Thinner tie rods needs 406629 for drivers side.

I suspect this is why Sasic have now adopted elastomer for the drivers side...universal fit.

One advantage of stripping the rack down to fit gaiters is that you don't need to remove the passenger side tie rod ball joint protector.
Be careful when removing this from the ball joint and it should be re-useable as they generally last well.
Early ones 406621, are easy to obtain
Later ones 406638, are less readily available.

If Citroen still supply, their boots really are the best, fit easily and last 20+ years.

When fitting the drivers side gaiter you will have to remove the track rod end from the track rod.
If the ball joint won't come apart with a few bangs to the side of the hub carrier to shock the joint taper apart, rather than using a ball joint splitter which carries the risk of splitting the rubber boot, use a paint pen (or scribe) to mark a straight, continuous line from the track rod, over the locking nut and onto the ball joint, measure the length from the gaiter indent to the outer edge of the ball joint then just unscrew the track rod from the track rod end.
On reassembly, set the length to the same length, align the line and the tracking will be set as it was originally.

If you do need to use a ball joint splitter, jack the hub up to the point it gives the greatest clearance round all parts of the rubber boot, then use a screw type splitter, not a hammer in one.
Hammer in splitters always rip the rubber boot.

[Citjon]

Thanks for all the info and suggestions Will that is going to be very helpful when I get round to it.

After much deliberation I decided to cut off the chassis outrigger rather than try to patch it in-situ. Good job I did as the inside face is badly pitted and needs replacing.

This is quite a complex part for me to try and make but I'm hoping to replicate the original shape as best I can.

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The floor pan above has only got light surface rust and will be cleaned up and treated.

There's more of that factory overspray here too so another can of Vauxhall maroon will be required! (sorry but it was the closest match I could find at the local Halfords).

[Dieselman]

I can't wait for the Mot tester to point out the underbody paint colour isn't an exact match for the main body panels.

If that is the chassis rail that runs from behind the front subframe out to the sill, it's unusual for that to rust. iirc, S1 Xm are undersealed in that area.

[Citjon]

I can't wait for the Mot tester to point out the underbody paint colour isn't an exact match for the main body panels.

If that is the chassis rail that runs from behind the front subframe out to the sill, it's unusual for that to rust. iirc, S1 Xm are undersealed in that area.

Yes that's the one, it finishes about level with the B post.

Hopefully the colour will distract him from all the other crusty bits of chassis and pipework!

[Julianw]

Good work Citjon

Please post a few pics of the process of fabbing a new chassis leg - I know i have to do the same on mine, and would prefer to put in more new metal than to patch in situ
TIA

[Dieselman]

You should be able to hammer form that piece by clamping the steel to a wooden dolly then planishing it over the edges, then back to flat again.

[Citjon]

I like the idea of using a wooden former but that is probably above my skill level! I'm not sure I would be able to shrink it enough where the rounded end folds over.

There's a step by step YouTube video of a similar repair section which I found really useful.



I'm happy to post photo's of my efforts if it helps.

[Dieselman]

That seems like a lot of welding for such a part.
I would have a go at forming the piece and if unhappy with the rounded end would then cut that part out and weld in a piece.

Apparently the trick to shrinking is to never allow a crease to form, once the metal starts to bulge, hammer it flat.