1998 2.1 VSX Auto new project

[Dieselman]

With the thermoplastic type gaiter you do need to remove the track rod to install it.

Undo both ram bolts to save straining the inner one when prying the ram off the stub.

Using a thin wedge/pry, lever the ball joint cover off the ball joint, ensure the steering is turned to right lock to gain access to the left ball joint.
Slip a ring spanner over the rack stub to counter-hold the rack, whilst undoing the track rod.

in the current ambient temperature the new gaiter will probably go on with no additional heat, but if necessary use a heat gun on low temp to make the gaiter more malleable, as necessary.

[citroenxm]

I been speaking to an owner who has successfully removed the pas ram and installed the gaiter with the rack in place albeit unbolted from its mounts. He had the track arm off and found enough room to get the ram off... which I didnt think there was enough room to do it. I think he also removed the front centre sphere to gain a couple more mm to slip the ram off the spigot.

[Dieselman]

No need to unbolt the rack, or sphere, just remove the track rod and unbolt the Pas ram.

[Citjon]

I've already loosened the ram torx bolts and the 2 rack bolts underneath in trying to pry off the ram. It was very tight on the chassis / subframe and loosening the rack seemed to help in the end.

It did cross my mind at one point to remove the ram bolts and take the rack out completely. That was before I managed to get it off the stub.

I don't think I'll need any more clearance but might remove the centre sphere anyway to check pressure.

[Dieselman]

If you turn the steering to partially extend the ram (not so far it fouls the handbrake cable support) then undo both end fixings (nut and bolt) it will push upwards off the stub, with nothing else removed.

For the drivers side, fitting a neoprene gaiter is a real challenge, you need to unclip the heat shield from the pinion valve and to gain adequate access, also remove the body attitude sensor.
Squeeze and manipulate the gaiter over the rack housing, without folding it over. A hooked pick can be useful to tease the gaiter over the housing.

The original clip on style gaiters are easy to fit to the drivers side.

[Citjon]

I'll be very happy if this gaiter lasts 25 years before I need to replace it. All quite straightforward until I tried getting it into the grooves but got there eventually.

Fortunately I think I've found a genuine one for the driver's side.

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[Dieselman]

I would advise adding a slim ty-wrap to ensure the clip stays in the retaining groove, otherwise, in my experience, the first time you fully extend the gaiter it will unclip.
The plastic may give in time, alleviating the issue.

The Sasic ones seem to be very similar, but slightly thicker material, to genuine Citroen ones, though the Citroen ones really do outlast all others, by a large margin.

For the full experience I suggest you install your next set in the middle of Winter, outside, while it's snowing.
Advise those sitting in the nice, warm, house..."I am just going outside and may be some time."

[Citjon]

Cable ties now fitted and everything nipped up so that's one side done. Brake pads also removed, cleaned up and refitted while the wheel was off.

The wheel arch liner wasn't fitted properly so I took it off and found this. Compared to doing the floor this should be an easy repair.

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Moving on to the driver's side the sill also needs some work. Thankfully the chassis rail is much better on this side.

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I'm going to save repairing the bumper bracket for another time, but will treat and paint it to keep the rust at bay. Maybe that's another good job to do in the middle of winter?

[Citjon]

As a distraction from welding I decided to take a look at the driver's window. Checking with a meter there is power at the door switch but no life from the motor, even with a direct 12v feed. I believe this model has anti pinch in addition to the one shot function.

I removed the regulator from the door and separated the motor. It appears to be seized, as the shaft will not turn. I do have an earlier S2 regulator if the motors are interchangeable? (the 9 pin plug is different).

If not my workaround for now is to fit a S1 regulator and splice in to the existing up / down switch. This avoids chopping off any plugs etc while I try to find a long term solution. Is there any reason why this won't work?

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Edit:
Looking at the switch cables they are very thin and not suitable for feeding the motor. I will have to splice into the thicker cables and fit a passenger type switch.

[Dieselman]

Just fit a pair of relays to pass the high current needed for the motor.
The switch wires feed the relay, but only at low current.

Give the motor lubrication, a good bash and work-out with some pliers and I suspect it will come back to life.