Citroen XM Forum

I agree that is a lot of welding. I've made a start by folding the straight section using bits of angle iron.

The end result of about 3 hours measuring, cutting, measuring, bending...


The curved end piece has been made separately and will be welded on next, followed by the bottom flange.

First rookie mistake was not cleaning the paint off the flat steel before I started!

The curved end piece didn't work out quite how it was supposed to, so I thought I'd have a go at hammer forming with a hardwood buck.

Fortunately I know a tame bench joiner!


The square bit behind will be clamped on top of the steel to keep it flat. If needed I will drill a hole through the whole lot and bolt it tight together.

Depending on the end result I would be happy to make a few extra for fellow S2 rustbucket owners.

^ I thought you were making wood trim pieces for an "Anne Hathaways Cottage" interior.

A wooden pattern is the way to hammer form.

A few more hours spent this week finishing off the repair section and fitting it to the car.


The fit isn't perfect but it's solid and after a coat of stonechip it will be near enough.

That looks excellent, well done.

Lovely work!

Thanks fellas - MOT is booked in for 6th July so I need to crack on and finish the welding then do the rack gaiters.

The sill repairs have taken so much longer than expected. MOT date keeps getting pushed back and the jobs list is getting longer not shorter! Decided I shouldn't really take any chances with the cambelt, waterpump and auxiliary belt either before it gets tested. Any hope of the car making the national rally has well and truly vanished...

Anyway I have at least finished the nearside sill welding.


It will be getting a coat of stonechip at some point and a hole added as per the original.

That looks really good and will be undetectable from original once undercoated.

I made a start on the nearside rack gaiter by removing the ram from the stud (easier said than done!!).

I've got a Sasic brand gaiter ready to fit.

One thing I'm not sure about is the inner track rod - does this need to be removed? There doesn't look to be much space around the ball joint to get hold of it. When I did this job on my other car (using a neoprene gaiter) I left the inner track rod on and it stretched over quite easily.


The technique I used previously involved a 'ramp' of copper pipe wrapped in tape, the gaiter in hot water and plenty of grease. The ball joint protector here is in good condition so could it be left in place if the track rod stays on?