. V6 12v Manual 1993 Sei

[citroenxm]

With the failed attempt to properly fix this dash with plastic welding, which did work very well on the repair, alignment and position was still wrong and I also noticed the attachment on the right to screw the catch release into is also broken away...

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The repair attempt...

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Despite the efforts I think the fact the catch fixing it broken on the right i have decided to do a full dash swap with another thats not broken. The car needs it.. and deserves it if I want it to work properly.

I retrived a decent glove box and saw that there are small ramps in the catch openings that the release fingers sit against.. the left hand one worked however the right one still didn't and it also made the catch go very stiff which will encourage release lever breakage quicker then they normally do...

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Upon further gold dust .. I had a quick look in a shed at my mums .. and to my suprise this was sitting there...

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Yes a completely un broken V6 engine cover.. I'm just hoping the rear rubber feet are actually still on the engine.. otherwise that may be a small issue..

[citroenxm]

The descision was made. A dash swap was the only way to do it...

I pictured each step of dash removal but I'm not going to put it all in here today.. prehaps a separate post in the body work and fittings section would be more appropriate.

Anyway, thankfully I did have a spare dash with both glove box lower tags intact.. so the dismantle began.

2 hours to remove which wasn't to bad I thought.

A pillar trims needed to come out. .and under dash trim needed unscrewing from the lower edge of the dash... but nothing on the centre console needed touching.

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A few things needed swapping over. The windscreen vent on the donar was cracked so I had to swap that over.. andni had to drill the holes to attach the wood trim.. I noticed also the release lever is actually held in place by 4 screws not 3, so while it was out I put in with 4 to make sure it was seated properly.

Stuck it all back in...

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And I'm now a very happy person...



Next to do, rear door card nearside the lid is off the pocket however its the plastic on the card thats all broken.. so a full card swap is needed one is present in the boot of the car..

Then we need to concentrate on mechicals. Next week I have help comming to do the height corrector swap, the offside caliper needs looking at to see if it really is sticking or not, check the front flexis brake hoses. Then onto the engine harness .. there's a lot of split insulation on lots of cables I don't like

[citroenxm]

Another thing also, the lights on warning buzzer doesn't work.. not sure if the door switches are working actually. I've not noticed interior lights comming on.. need to look at that.

[citroenxm]

Well im throughly pleased to say the help arrived today to swap the rear height corrector over at the back..

One of the unions which looked like it had been attacked previously did finally come out with some gentle presuasion and the other two were easier...

Changed it over to a better looking one plumbed it all back in and now looking a lot dryer..

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At the same time they also looked for the exhaust blow..looks like it has seen some weld before which has failed although it may weld up again.. it blowing just before the clamp just after the box on the centre box... that pipe to the right, after the clamp, looks stainless but im not sure..

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However I have an interior light issue.. which in turn isn't activateing the lights on buzzer and also the roof reciver plipper isn't working.. its not the reciver or plipper I've had them bench tested and matched and they are reciving and sending and the reciver is sending a lock/u lock signal but its not getting from the roof to locking box.. so time for more trim removal,, and I had the dash out too...

[Dieselman]

The central locking and the interior lights "short timer" are both interfaced with the lock control unit, so ensure that is properly connected.
Try pressing the interior lights switch while watching the yellow tell-tale.
If the tell tail fails to light there is either an issue with the short timer, or it isn't receiving power. The tell-tale is powered from the timer relay, not the switch.

The lights on warning buzzer is possibly a separate issue.

That exhaust does look like a stainless pipe has been added, needs a bit of bracing and fresh weld.

[citroenxm]

Id expect the light on buzzer to be related because if the open door and interior lights aren't comming on then it doesn't know a door is open..

I tried a second blue box timer with same results. The blue timer is getting 12v.. it is earthed. I need to look at the other timer box.. and also try what you said its not removed bulbs.. as the door pubble lamps aren't lighting.. central locking locks maually but the matched plipper doesnt but I've not checked the roof harness for power or continuity as yet ... the car has not suffered any water ingrees front either a leaky roof or leaky antenna so is all very dry inside.

[Dieselman]

The door warning should be really simple to investigate, so start there.

12v power via F9. Relay pin 1. Wiring 2 pin grey, pin 1

Lights on power Via F10. Relay pin 2. Wiring Red 13 pin, Pin B3.

Gnd via door pin switches. Relay Pin 5. Wiring red 13 pin, Pin B4.

[citroenxm]

Can you clarify relays a.bit more will... what relays, where?

I've pulled the fuse box down out of its home again and lights on buzzer has woken up and started working..

The yellow tell tail on the interior lamp switch is not illumimating on the dash

[citroenxm]

And this afternoon.. .the lights on buzzer has stopped again after not touching anything. ... hmmm...

[Dieselman]

^Of course...LOL..
Sounds like a poor connection to the fuseboard, which remade when the unit was pulled down.

The "long timer" is the one for the interior lights, which is the little cube relay which lives under the glovebox. It was this one that caused the issue I had.
The short timer is the one under the drivers dash panel.
When you press the interior switch it trips the short timer relay by shunting connector Pin 4 to Gnd, which then feeds power to the lights and the switch tell-tale.
The door switches pass through the dashboard switch.
When connector Pin 4 of the short timer is shunted to Gnd, so is connector Pin 2 of the long timer.
The long timer receives power via F27 (Batt), and F23 (Ign)
When either connector Pin2, or 4 are shunted to Gnd, the relay trips and sends power to the puddle lamps and interior lights.
The interior light short timer then provides the Gnd to illuminate the interior lights.
Power to the short timer (961), connector Pin 7 is fed from the long timer (837), connector Pin 1.

I have had a burned out long timer relay causing flickering and lack of interior illumination.

The circuit sounds very complicated, but isn't really.
The Long timer is the 10 minute timer for the Hydractive and interior lights. Are there any issues with Hydractive when the Ign is off?
The short timer is the 30 second lights timer and dimming relay.
The dashboard switch is a pass through for the door pin switches and when pressed replicates a pin switch.
The tell-tale in the switch is effectively an interior lamp, not directly switched by the switch.

Gabor's circuit diagrams V2.2 are accurate. I forgot you are looking at a S1 car. The circuit is the same, the fuses are different, which I have edited in my text. I'll try to get a S1 diagram.
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