Citroen XM Forum

Ahhhhhh under the glove box. Damm need to get that out again.. right.. yea theres a blue and black relay under the glove box.

The short timer ie blue box above parking brake all checks out and has got power to it ..

Rightio so strip glove box out again and see if I have a relay issue too.. then to find one in the masses. Most likely left connected to removed dash looms.

Thanks will.. despite being slightly technical in the mind sometimes items still need actual explanation if location etc right ... thankyou.. some homework today with wiring diagrams. Its wet today boooo...

I wonder if those two relays under the glove box are in the wrong sockets... hmmmm....

You don't give the Rp number of the car, but I think the attached should be the correct diagram for it.
The relay should be the black one. 9609668780.

I suspect the central locking interface is simply there to tell the lights to switch on when unlocking and off when locking, depending on which data line is actuated. You should be able to ignore this function.

Never thought to give the RP . Ive got the full xm workshop manuals folders for S1 and s2 which will also help for reading once we identufy the correct one.

Thanks for your efforts Will..

In my case it was the relay inside the relay case that had burned contacts.
The internal relay is V23072-C1063-A303.
This is no longer available so one has to settle for a C1061, which is widely used.

After a pin check and a jump wire on pins 1 and 5 the dash interior light amber light lights up.. all other pins connect up to fuse and the short timer so it looks like it is this timer..

First thing I have had to buy which I dont think I'm gonna find easily amongst my stash of harnesses. Its likely other timers will be on other dash looms I've removed.

Thanks for your knowledge in electrics Will...

Just to be sure, try shunting connector Pin 2 to Gnd, which replicates the dash switch, or door pins closing.
That way you can guarantee the wiring is intact.

An alternate test would be to connect a test light from Batt +ve (Pin5, or Pin3 Ign live), to connector Pin 2, then operate the dash switch, or door pin switch. The test light should then illuminate, replicating the coil of the relay being energised.

If you have a stash of harnesses, I'm sure you will have one of these, they are fitted to every Hydractive Xm. When the Ign is switched off, this timer provides 10 minutes of power to the interior lights and to the hydractive Ecu.

Nothing needed purchasing. Two illumination timer relays found.

Thank you will. Today we have had a completely and utterly sucessfull morning. .

Two things found further down the line .. the drivers door closed switch on the B pillar was corroded so wasn't working . All the bulbs in the centre roof lamp were blown. This wasn't to mean I was wasting my time as the puddle lamps weren't working nor were the rear illumination lamps. Once I got these working is when I found the front bulbs blown..



Once step further i also managed to get the orignal plipper to work. I sent the pair off to someone to have a look over and 2 tracks were found burnt on the sender. Two small wires were added and viola..



Rolling on.. a ticking developed after all assembling on the drivers side... however.. it turned out to be the plug to the lh display had come away slightly... I pushed the plug in and away the tick went. .. very happy now the dash is all done and complete. We can now.move onto the next which is around the engine bay.. fit either a complete engine loom due to broken cable insulations or cut and join/splice in plugs to the existing loom to eliminate bare wires etc..

Progress at last ..

Good to hear you have achieved a successful fix and also resolved more issues.

Had myself 30 mins spare so moved onto the front to check things over

Firstly virtually zero pads, which is fine I've a few, so a new set of pads will go on...
Then as also mentioned the flexi brake hoses are a bit worn, so worth a pair of these too..
Inspecting the rack gaiter a bit closer revealed that the boot has only poopped off the inner rack . So I am dearly hoping that a push back then a cable tie should see it stay back on place theres no evedance of anything securing the boot in place.

Then onto the nearside .. I was a bit alarmed to see this parking brake cable route either the guides are wrong or its a longer v6 24v cable but I dont like the look of it..
however the biggest boo was the nearside cv boot is broken , and split at the shaft end..

My pictures I took earlyer in the year hid these all quite well. . As.lomg as the rack boots prove to be easy to do ill be fairly happy but I'm not overly joyed with the cv boot either.