Just got an XM! ['92 TDi Estate, J71 MCW]

[Dieselman]

Which one is that one, the old one, or new one?
I suspect the collet is just jammed up with dirt, so try cleaning it out and spraying some lube down it.
If all else fails swap the lower cable over.
You could try pulling the inner cable at the clutch arm end, which should force the collet release ring down onto the collet.

As above, keep it all to one thread, that way you have a complete history of your resurrection project.

[gwolfski]

Absolutely miserable weather today, probably won't get anything done on the XM. Oh, to have a garage would be nice.

Which one is that one, the old one, or new one?

The new one. I'll soak it all down with penetrating oil to see if it helps.

I'm not sure how Citroen would have chamfered the edge of stamped out metal sheet.

You can get press dies that leave chamfers on stamped parts. I work in a factory that makes automotive components and we have press tools that chamfer the edges. I undertand they are more costly and complicated compared to "standard" tools, might be why Citroen didn't go for them. Our dies are CNC'd to get the chamfers, I imagine it would be a whole pile more difficult in the 90s, too.

During fitting the clucth cable, I had disconnected some electrical connectors, and after reconnecting them, a few changes occured.
- the suspension light, which was on all the time before, goes out now.
- the display screen is now beeping at me to check the hydraulic fluid. Previosuly it was only complaining about the brake lights.
- the warning lights display says STOP now, which I assume is caused by the above.
- there is now a whirring noise in the area of the front left door when the sidelights are on.

Other things which I forgot to mention earlier, moreso so I remember these later:
- there's a hiss from the back when the engine is running and I press the brakes. If the engine is off (but the suspension still up) there is no noticable hiss. Guessing that's a leak in a pipe somewhere.
- front left quarter panel seems to have been marroon(?) before being resprayed to match the rest. I'm guessing it was knocked at some point and replaced.
- there's a little pipe running from the intake to some kind of pressure(?) sensor. I guess that's for the boost pressure on the dash?
- the coolant is straight water, slightly rusty. I must remember to flush it soon and add antifreeze.
- hydraulic pump belt is worn and loose.
- big crack on the windshield.
- rear muffler is rusted away at the pipe connection. Sounds like a tractor when idling.

And onto the electrical stuff that doesn't work (again, mostly a comparison to when it is all finished). Though probably easier to list what does work
Incomplete list of broken things:
- front fogs
- radio (says "security". I think it's the model you can cut the solder links to reset the code)
- reverse lights, rear fogs, and intermittently, the rear brake lights
- sunroof
- rear power windows, front passanger window controls (have to use driver's controls)
- the oil level sensor only works sometimes (yes, I know it only works with the engine off. My grandparents have a Fiat Ulysse (the platform was shared with citroen, peugot and lancia) and it had that gauge too. I think it's a pretty neat feature)
- power mirrors
- rear screen demister
- rear wiper and washer
- half the interior lights
- the ac/heater panel. - related to this, I've heard the AC has a seperate ECU (the "lunchbox", as my sister calls the ECU box, only has a H3 for the suspension). But the location of the radiator filler cap is consistent with what the Haynes manual says is for AC cars (reservoir on driver's side, not directly on the radiator.) Where does the AC compressor mount?
- The fuel gauge picks a random level (within the lower 1/3) to display each time the engine is started.

I've also dropped my deep 13mm socket into the bowels of the engine bay Which means I can't fit 2 of the 3 big intake bolts, as they have a stud on them that interferes with normal sockets. I've got half a mind to take an angle grinder to that, nothing bolts to them anyway. crude text representation of bolt with stud:

Code: Select all

<====|==

where | is the head of the bolt.

Also, forgot to mention at the start of the thread. Car's now in Meath. Picked it up in Cork. No idea what the name on the v5 is (haven't got the paperwork yet, previous owner is on holidays in Italy)

EDIT: just walked by the car to get my flashlight back, thought "ah hell, I'll try the clutch pedal", something went dink! and I have a clutch now! After which I moved the car six yards, stalled it, and now the starter isn't working. And there's a large green puddle underneath where it sat. Welp.

[Dieselman]

Absolutely miserable weather today, probably won't get anything done on the XM. Oh, to have a garage would be nice.

At least it's in a sheep shed and not snowing, which is the normal time to be fitting steering rack gaiters, outside...

During fitting the clucth cable, I had disconnected some electrical connectors, and after reconnecting them, a few changes occured.
- the suspension light, which was on all the time before, goes out now.
- the display screen is now beeping at me to check the hydraulic fluid. Previosuly it was only complaining about the brake lights.
- the warning lights display says STOP now, which I assume is caused by the above.
- there is now a whirring noise in the area of the front left door when the sidelights are on.

In order:
Good.
Sounds like it's low on fluid so not generating pressure.
Yes.
Lights on buzzer in fusebox.

Other things which I forgot to mention earlier, moreso so I remember these later:
- there's a hiss from the back when the engine is running and I press the brakes. If the engine is off (but the suspension still up) there is no noticable hiss. Guessing that's a leak in a pipe somewhere.
- there's a little pipe running from the intake to some kind of pressure(?) sensor. I guess that's for the boost pressure on the dash?
- big crack on the windshield.
- rear muffler is rusted away at the pipe connection. Sounds like a tractor when idling.

Again, in order:
A hiss might just be air passing through the valves due to low fluid level, a fluid leak will soon make itself apparent.
Yep. Turbo gauge pressure transducer.
You can still buy windscreens brand new, endure the fitter doesn't damage the upper trims as estate ones are no longer available.
If it's just the inlet pipe rusted at the joint, weld up a new socket and you will be good to go.

And onto the electrical stuff that doesn't work (again, mostly a comparison to when it is all finished). Though probably easier to list what does work
Incomplete list of broken things:
- front fogs
- radio (says "security". I think it's the model you can cut the solder links to reset the code)
- reverse lights, rear fogs, and intermittently, the rear brake lights
- sunroof
- rear power windows, front passanger window controls (have to use driver's controls)
- the oil level sensor only works sometimes (yes, I know it only works with the engine off. My grandparents have a Fiat Ulysse (the platform was shared with citroen, peugot and lancia) and it had that gauge too. I think it's a pretty neat feature)
- power mirrors
- rear screen demister
- rear wiper and washer
- half the interior lights
- the ac/heater panel. - related to this, I've heard the AC has a seperate ECU (the "lunchbox", as my sister calls the ECU box, only has a H3 for the suspension). But the location of the radiator filler cap is consistent with what the Haynes manual says is for AC cars (reservoir on driver's side, not directly on the radiator.) Where does the AC compressor mount?
- The fuel gauge picks a random level (within the lower 1/3) to display each time the engine is started.

I've also dropped my deep 13mm socket into the bowels of the engine bay Which means I can't fit 2 of the 3 big intake bolts, as they have a stud on them that interferes with normal sockets. I've got half a mind to take an angle grinder to that, nothing bolts to them anyway. crude text representation of bolt with stud:

Code: Select all

<====|==

where | is the head of the bolt.

Also, forgot to mention at the start of the thread. Car's now in Meath. Picked it up in Cork. No idea what the name on the v5 is (haven't got the paperwork yet, previous owner is on holidays in Italy)

Those special bolts with the studs hold the rear of the intake manifold should have the fuel pipe bolted to them, but it looks like that has been re-routed, no longer having the metal section that bolts there.
The socket is likely to be behind the starter motor.
The electric windows daisy chain through each other, front then rear. They usually fail due to dirty contacts.
The oil level sensors only work when first started, so just leave alone for now.
The erratic rear lamp behavior is possibly the tailgate wiring loom being broken at the hinge. Estates suffer here due to the wide angle the tailgate opens.
It's a diesel without Abs, so only one Ecu...Hydractive 1 (h3 Ecu), version.
Does the car have A/c fitted? If so the heater/climate controller is the heater panel in the dashboard and an A/c Stop switch in the right bank of dash switches. I've checked Rob Smarts images...no A/c, which isn't a surprise on a S trim level, Uk, car.
All turbo diesels have the remote coolant reservoir, radiator mounted ones are for 2.0 petrols only.

If the radio is the grey fronted Clarion 3100, I've recently been made aware the last four digits of lower set of numbers on the the barcode label on the side of the unit are the code. If that doesn't work just perform the track cuts and set it to 1112 (iirc)

Just sort the electrical issues once the car is up and running, some may sort themselves as the car dries out and comes back to life.

Good to see the clutch cable has now released and is operational, the self adjust mechanism actually works very well, but can be prone to creaking as the collets grip.

You should be able to find the Lhm leak pretty easily now.
If you just splice in a repair section the flare doesn't have to be a Citroen flare, it can be Din, or Sae, as long as it's a mechanical connection, not reliant on olives.
If you don't have a Citroen flare tool, the dies are available for not too much, or it's easy to make your own tool. Citroen flares are simpler than Sae, or Din flares, they just create a fixed swage on the pipe by forcing the end of the pipe back to flare the pipe.

Read the below thread for a how to make a flare tool and the dimensions for each pipe and flare:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10390&hilit=flare+tool#p124512
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10390&hilit=flare+t ... 10#p124525

You can trigger the starter directly by connecting a wire to the solenoid small contact and to Batt +ve.
The solenoid contact is just visible near the oil filler tube, behind the Flow Distribution Valve.
Battery terminals are often a cause of the starter not working, especially the negative one, as the cable gets bent around when disconnecting and reconnecting the battery.
Another possible issue is the engine loom connector under the Lhm tank, but that's not common.
Ign switches are a known failure point as the full starter solenoid current pass through, so burns the contacts eventually.
The starter circuit on your car is very simple, the power goes straight from the Ign switch to the starter solenoid.
Series 1 electrical diagrams.
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=10268

The starter solenoids tend to stick after periods of no use. The starter can be stripped and cleaned, but is a bit awkward to remove as the Fdv is in the way, so needs to be unbolted and pulled forwards to create space. This only applies for the early, larger starter motor, as yours has...

The regional ownership pattern of that car is interesting. it was in NI, then East Midlands, England, then seemingly back to Ireland, this time RoI.

[gwolfski]

Did a little walkabout photoshoot of the car. Putting it into an imgur album so it doesn't make this post six feet long.

https://imgur.com/a/Ph3UBV2

Didn't start it for the photos because I don't want to be losing more fluid than is necessary.

I need to get a new clamp for the pressure transducer, the current one is not holding it, it just pops off.
Is the fact that the lhm cap is loose an issue? Does moisture affect the fluid?

I did disconnect the engine harness that is under the lhm tank. After messing with it, the starter worrks. I'll have to get some contact cleaner.

The electrics are healing, it appears. One of the front fogs came on, and the rear fogs and reverse lights work now. Still erratic brake lights. The dipped beams are pathethic. Probably that plastic lens?

The rear left door has a broken latch, hence the wire. Managed to open the tailgate (it was stuck before) and it is *heavy* with no struts working

The battery clamps (which I think are still lead) are not very terminal-shaped. I'll have to replace those soon too.

How feasable is fitting AC? I imagine part availability would be the biggest issue.

The RH display is shot. I'm thinking od replacing it with a lcd ran by an arduino at some point.

Update: Had to move it, hay is going into the shed. Leaked out pretty much the remainder of the fluid over 30 yards. I hope it's sold in bigger containers than 1L. How much fluid does the system hold?

[citroenxm]

The ac evaporator is at the very rear of the heater box up against the bulkhead.. so to start with that will be total stripdown and heater box out to put the evaporator in. The next mod would be needing an alloy sump on the engine to take the ac compressor.. then of course wiring and all the sensors on the heater box to detect freezing and additional wiring.

The lhm cap on the tank is just a push fit.. but it should have a slight bit of firmness.. brake lights switch is in the actual foot pedal.. its fitted there because of lack of pedal moment theres not enough pedal single to operated a plunger type brake switch.. but untill your sure the harness between the boot lid and car is good id look there. Heliieuz who made the estate conversion for citroen weren't known for great quality and the harnesses were short and often broke. The xantia estate which they also did also suffer identical issues..

Rh display us shot by what way? Had the lcd bled or us it just datk and unreadsble..? The bulbs may of blown..

Whats the pressure transducer you refer to?

[gwolfski]

The ac evaporator is at the very rear of the heater box up against the bulkhead.. so to start with that will be total stripdown and heater box out to put the evaporator in. The next mod would be needing an alloy sump on the engine to take the ac compressor.. then of course wiring and all the sensors on the heater box to detect freezing and additional wiring.

On the interior, right? I've seen cars where you need the engine out to get to the heater box...

Rh display us shot by what way? Had the lcd bled or us it just datk and unreadsble..? The bulbs may of blown..

Whats the pressure transducer you refer to?

it's bled, the backlight works

the turbo gauge pressure transducer

[citroenxm]

The car has been upgraded to the higher spec level.. the leather and wood being added by previous owners..

Please DO FEEL free to add pictures directly in the post via the file attachment option below the full editor.. then when we go and look at them were not innudated with ads and prompts to install stuff, especially on android devices.. lol..

The car has huge potential to be a lovley car indeed and really is only missing ac to make it an estate in high spec..

[citroenxm]

The ac evaporator is at the very rear of the heater box up against the bulkhead.. so to start with that will be total stripdown and heater box out to put the evaporator in. The next mod would be needing an alloy sump on the engine to take the ac compressor.. then of course wiring and all the sensors on the heater box to detect freezing and additional wiring.

On the interior, right? I've seen cars where you need the engine out to get to the heater box...

Rh display us shot by what way? Had the lcd bled or us it just datk and unreadsble..? The bulbs may of blown..

Whats the pressure transducer you refer to?

it's bled, the backlight works

the turbo gauge pressure transducer

Ahhh ok. . In the xm.. the heater box is bolted to the fire wall but you can access the bolts behind the engine to release the heaterbox without taking the engine out..

[gwolfski]

Please DO FEEL free to add pictures directly in the post via the file attachment option below the full editor.. then when we go and look at them were not innudated with ads and prompts to install stuff, especially on android devices.. lol..

Is there an attachment limit? I can only get 8 on that post, I'll put the rest here.

The body is quite straight, there's a dent below the fuel fill, and the back bumper is a bit scratched. Clear coat is gone from the roof, and the quarterpanel that was replaced and repaainted has wierd paint damage.

[citroenxm]

Also J was the first year of the estate too.. there was only hatch for 1989 to 91.. (G, H and early J) ..