Just got an XM! ['92 TDi Estate, J71 MCW]

[DownUnderXM]

Re the yellow lens - presume you realise this is an internal plastic lens? They are not that easy to bleach (I've tried). Don't try and polish the reflectors - the silver just comes off (don't ask me how I know ).

[Dieselman]

Everybody complains about Xm dipped beam lights, but when they were new they were on par with others, better than some as they were the first complex parabolic headlamps to be used.
It is possible the reflectors are very dusty, but the internal lens does reduce the output.
Swill out with soapy then clean water to clean. As said, do not touch the silvering, it will just come off.

You can get lamp reflectors re coated.

[gwolfski]

Re the yellow lens - presume you realise this is an internal plastic lens? They are not that easy to bleach (I've tried). Don't try and polish the reflectors - the silver just comes off (don't ask me how I know ).

I've read the post about bleaching them on here, but I might hold off on that if it's that hard.

The beam pattern looks good - it's just that there's not enough light coming out of them. I did swap the bulbs for new ones, though now I think of it I never tested for votlage drop - some of the wiring looks... "delicate". I somewhow doubt there's crimped or soldered joints under some of that electrical tape.

Recoating the reflectors is a thing I intend to do at some point, but that will be after it passes its NCT (MOT), with the rest of the non-roadworthiness items.

[gwolfski]

How do I free the lock from the rest of this assembly? I see the hole for pressing down the retaining pin, but it seems to do nothing, lock won't budge. I also do not have a working key for it.

rn_image_picker_lib_temp_a62c23bc-08fb-461c-b7a7-c039ba202cf3.jpg

Trying to get the driver's window working, but somehow it just fixed the passanger window. And the switch for the heated seat runs the blower fan, regardless of the fan control position. Fun!

[Dieselman]

LOL. The wiring sounds like fun, but the passenger window does run through the drivers door switch, so it's possible that has effected a fix for that one.

For the door lock, drive the pin out to release the inner barrel.
The locks are pretty simple in construction, just take note of how the return to centre spring sits in the bottom of the outer casing. If dismantling the pin units, work on a clean surface. Those pins and springs have a desire to escape.

[gwolfski]

Trying to piece together electrical diagrams is a challenge, as this has multiple parts added on, and the RP number is too early for some of the Pepon diagrams


"Rebuilt" one of the locks. Had to gut both the old lock and new "universal" lock because they're mismatched for length, the new locks only have one set of pins (and a blank row in the other) compared to the original. Lock is extremely heavy to turn, but it works. Might have to find an orignal set to replace later, but it locks now. Maybe soaking it in penetrant and then lube will help.

[Dieselman]

Trying to piece together electrical diagrams is a challenge, as this has multiple parts added on, and the RP number is too early for some of the Pepon diagrams


"Rebuilt" one of the locks. Had to gut both the old lock and new "universal" lock because they're mismatched for length, the new locks only have one set of pins (and a blank row in the other) compared to the original. Lock is extremely heavy to turn, but it works. Might have to find an orignal set to replace later, but it locks now. Maybe soaking it in penetrant and then lube will help.

I've had a look for window electrical diagrams and can only find a single diagram for Series 1, Xm.
The Haynes wiring diagrams are faithful to the Citroen original, barring missing some of the tracer colours on the yellow wires.
Each switch has five pins.
Pin1 = Feed to the window motor
Pin2 = Gnd
Pin3 = +12v
Pin4 = Gnd
Pin5 = Feed to the window motor

Default is for Pin1 to be connected to Pin2 and for Pin5 to be connected to Pin4, acting as a pass through.
When active either Pin1, or Pin5 is connected to Pin3 (+12v). This creates a reversible +12v and Gnd connection for the motor.
You probably made the pass through connection good, when looking at the drivers window switch.

Haynes manual electrical diagrams. download/file.php?id=10203

See attached Citroen diagram 671-00/20

For the replacement door locks you have, they are standard SX9 locks for later models, such as Dispatch, ZX, etc. Xm locks have both keyways populated, except the glovebox lock.

[gwolfski]

For the replacement door locks you have, they are standard SX9 locks for later models, such as Dispatch, ZX, etc. Xm locks have both keyways populated, except the glovebox lock.

Would there be a detriment (other than possibly security?) if only one keyway is populated? The lock bits look like they will ping all over the place once the cover plate thingy is removed, and I've never dealt with pinning locks.

Thanks for the wiring info, it'll be helpful. I have a hard copy of the haynes manual, but where does the window one come from? It is much more readable (in terms of quality and layout) than the pepon ones.

[Dieselman]

Would there be a detriment (other than possibly security?) if only one keyway is populated? The lock bits look like they will ping all over the place once the cover plate thingy is removed, and I've never dealt with pinning locks.

Thanks for the wiring info, it'll be helpful. I have a hard copy of the haynes manual, but where does the window one come from? It is much more readable (in terms of quality and layout) than the pepon ones.

Extra security is the reason Xm locks use both planes of the keyway. 5 pins on the main plane, 4 pins on the second one.
Work in a clean environment with some paper laid down to catch any stray parts and it's pretty simple.
The stainless cover unclips and reveals the springs, then the pins. Keep them all in order and all will be fine.

I downloaded the manual from http://www.ckc.dk/pubs/MAN008934.pdf

I need to find somewhere to host it as I don't know whether the site is happy for all and sundry to download from them. They are large files 480mb for the wiring diagrams.

Recently I needed to install a new steering lock for one where the wiring had been completely removed and the wiring significantly altered. The most accurate electrical diagram was the Haynes manual, as it was drawn from the UK spec genuine Citroen wiring diagrams.
Haynes used original Citroen manuals to create their workshop manuals, but unfortunately, neither party now has any original documentation.

[gwolfski]

I downloaded the manual from http://www.ckc.dk/pubs/MAN008934.pdf

I need to find somewhere to host it as I don't know whether the site is happy for all and sundry to download from them. They are large files 480mb for the wiring diagrams.

I may actually be able to help with that, I have a server hosted for keeping some car-related stuff on. Terrabyte/month bandwidth, which I don't even use 0.1% of, and there's still like 30+gb left of disk space.


The replacement keys are quite... poor. Only 4 our of 5 cuts on the big plane, and no cuts on the small plane. one of the cylinders was pinned wrong, too. I have transfered the new pins to the original cylinder, as it is of higher quality. I suppose bad working locks are better than no locks

edit: damn that's a lot of pdfs