My Citroen XM 3.0 PR-Vestige

[MTXM]

I am sorry Dean, but I also prefer your earlier wheels, for the lighter and more open appearance! If the others are kept on the car you must at least remove those Volvo badges! With regards, Matthew T.

[MTXM]

If you are going to have Volvo wheels Dean I personally refer these, which Richard near Ely had fitted to his V6! Regards, Matthew T.

[misha]

Those should be from s60...they also have wrong offset...around 49.
Xm have 43....
That wouldn't matter as long as you don't go wider than 215 width tyres.

[Dean]

Winter fettling has been on hold for the last week or so due to man flue and a real lack of enthusiasm as a result but i am now back at it.

After much looking at the Volvo wheels i am still undecided what to do, i have tried looking for another RS5 rim but without success, i may sell my volvo wheels on and re-paint my existing wheels if i can repair the historic pothole damage.

I have started replacing all of the engine bay relays with new waterproof 40A holders and relays, this is going well but if i break it and i end up with a no starty situation later John is free to say, i told you so!

Fitted new front strut and main accumulator sphere's today, interesting that the car has been on axle stands for weeks with the rear suspension cylinders off, i opened the 12mm pressure relief screw though to change the Acc sphere and while i was under the car heard a noise, when i came back out i found this rather impressive mess all over my clean and shiny engine bay
IMG_0838 by Deanxm, on Flickr
I wound the old Acc sphere off and there was no LHM in the pressure regulator sphere port, did'nt drop a drip of LHM, the force of fluid going back to the resovoir was unbelievable and the cap was blown off with the results you see, anybody ever seen this before? The old Acc sphere is not ruptured and actually has pretty good pressure in it still so why the LHM tank explosion do we think?, all i can guess at is substantial air in the system, the Fluid level was correct as i had to check it after rebuilding the FDV and regulator then bleeding the brakes, the level in the tank is now about 1/2" below the neck of the tank with the front wheels hanging with struts at maximum extension.
Where has all that fluid been hiding..............

My guess is massive volumes of air in the system, when the relief bolt was opened the pressure in the system dropped and the air expanded and displaced a massive amount of fluid back to the reservoir leaving mostly air in the system, so how is air entering in this quantity?
Today i managed to lay my hands on a refurbished LHM pump for the V6 for a good price so i will be changing that out, if for no other reason than that it is all painted and shiny but i suspect the pulley is worn on my pump and the housing could be leaking.

D

[Dean]

Turns out the car parts fairy was in town again today
image1(1) by Deanxm, on Flickr

D

[Dean]

New pump is now fitted, what a pig that was to bleed and get going too, it is actually much quieter than the original and i can confirm the pulley was worn out on the old one too as i came to suspect in the end, comparing them side by side it was clear to see just by eye how much wider the belt grrove was on the old pump, although i had no further slippage issues after a few months of use and initially destroying a few belts this one grips with very little belt tension running a new belt, hopefully this issue is now behind me.

I came across a seller in spain with supposedly a quantity of 3000 Seimens Deka 2892 injectors selling at $4 each, sipping is expensive but overal cost for a fresh set of 6 is less than $80 delivered. The time they have been sellers on Ebay and lack of items for sale/feedback is putting me off but i am very tempted as i have been very suspicious of my injectors in that they may be causing my slight issues, one of them is ticking a little louder than the rest and a when i swapped a couple of clogged ones back in the summer the spray patterns were not great if im honest. any opinions on the seller, i have messaged them but have had no reply as yet but it is sunday.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Universal- ... 2022450775" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The rear arms are off the car still and i need to source some new bearing kits at a sensible price, my bearings are actually OK although the plastic bearing cages were showing signs of stress, the grease in the bearings themselves was dry, dark brown and hard the grease on the bolts was golden and in good condition, after looking at the design i see no benifit to adding grease nipples to the arm though as this may damage the oil seals and if greased liberally on assembly there should be no problem.

Once my long running man flue subsides it will be time to attack the squealing heater fan next and centre the steering wheel before deciding to make up all new A/C pipes or remove the A/C pump and change the aux belt setup to a non A/C type.

D

[cxprestigeauto]

Keep up the good work

[White Exec]

Hi Dean,

Their Ebay business address is given as
EMB Jetronic Center
Ctra. Gral. del Norte, 242
Las Palmas de Gran Canaria
Canarias
35013
Spain
sales@jetronic.net

If you Google Earth their address "Gral del Norte 242, Las Palmas" and go to StreetView
they look like a decent enough diesel specialist outfit.

Often Google Earth far-flung or unknown businesses, to see what sort of premises advertisers are trading from. Some fairly grizzly.

[misha]

For a heater fan....you just need to remove it and grease it.
You need a little syringe with a needle and extension from wd-40(works good for me) to put some oil in inner and outer bearing on the fan.
I re-greased mine 2 years ago and it's still happy and quiet.

[Dean]

Thanks gents, all good info