2 * 2.1 SD

[xmexclusive]

The track rod has a set hex of flats close to the inner ball joint.
I use this to undo the track rod end from the track rod.
Unscrew the lock nut one full turn then use the hex flats to screw the track rod end free.
Reassemble in reverse and tracking is retained as previous.
If changing the track rod then there is a screw thread on the inside of the inner ball joint.
Pull back the gaiter, grip the outer case of the ball joint with a large pair of mole grips and unscrew.
Bit of thread lock on refitting rod.

If replacing track rods select replacements carefully.
There are two different track rod sizes (original XM - M14 & 2.5 and some later XM's - M16).
That is not the only difference as I recently bought some genuine M16 PUG 605 ones.
They turned out to need 15mm trimmed off the ends to be the same length as the old ones.
My Indy knew where to get the trimming done having had the same length problem with genuine Citroen ones.

John


John

[Dieselman]

If changing the track rod then there is a screw thread on the inside of the inner ball joint.
Pull back the gaiter, grip the outer case of the ball joint with a large pair of mole grips and unscrew.

That is the bit that was getting me, I still can't see quite how it undoes.

I did the trick of measuring the length of track rod to the outside of the ball joint case, but I have a set of tracking gauges, so used those to reset the tracking.

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[xmexclusive]

Hi DM

Have a look at ebay item 231549959071 as that has a picture showing the rod with hex flats, ball joint and threaded end.
Note that the inner threaded end is common to both sizes of XM track rod.
So provided a matching track rod and track rod end is used either type will fit any XM.

John

[Dieselman]

Hi John,
I know about the hex flats on the rod, but still can't see how removing the ball joint would help pass the 10mm gaiter over the rod.

[xmexclusive]

Hi DM
Never found any problem getting either size gaiter onto the correct diameter rod.
On 2.5's genuine Citroen gaiters need to be expanded about 4mm to fit onto the rods.
Smear of grease and they just push on.
I only fitted new track rods because I was fitting a new rack to replace a leaking one.

John

[Dieselman]

The Cobalt car has always had atrocious headlamps on dip beam, so I set about cleaning them out. The main beam reflector appeared reasonably clean, but the dip beam was cloudy. Washing had no effect, so it seems the silvering has been affected by heat, fortunately I had a set of lamps with good dip reflectors.

Being aware of the dimming effect and light diffusion of the lacquer on the acrylic lens going cloudy, I decided to have a go at removing it.

Warning: Don't use Cillit Bang, it does dissolve the lacquer, but leaves the lens very cloudy. To rectify t his I then polished the lens. UK cars are worse as the fluted side is forwards, whereas LHD cars it is facing into the headlamp, so the front, smooth side could be sanded and polished easily.
Once the coating is polished off you can see the light passing through is sharper.
I have yet to fit them to the car, but am sure the light output will be much improved.

Reflector.



A lens with coating still on.



A polished lens

[White Exec]

I wasn't aware that the plastic lenses had a coating.
Have managed to remove most of the yellowing, and polished up to clear, with the cream cleaner/polish in a Turtle Wax Headlight Restorer Kit. Also found that good old Mer works just as well.

The yellowing of plastics by age or UV is IIRC caused by bromine additives working their way to the surface, and then reacting with the air to produce the yellow-brown discolouration. Can be buffed off or 'bleached' away, but will reappear. (Old photocopiers, scanners and consumer widgets with pale grey cases suffer badly with this. Slightly different plastics yellow differently, resulting in 'two-tone' panels.). Loads on the web about plastic discolouration.

[Dieselman]

Most plastics have a UV coating applied. It is the UV coating that breaks down, but quite possible that these lenses are not protected...which is why they discolour.
By using the Cillit Bang, I got the impression there was a coating being removed.

I've only been able to try them during daylight so far, but can see they are whiter and have a definitive cut-off, so are definitely focusing better.

[xmexclusive]

The new ones I have give no indication of a coating.
Comparing the polished ones with the yellow ones is interesting as the yellow remains but fainter on all narrow side edges.

John

[Dieselman]

I have now driven the car and can reports a significant improvement. Well worth doing.

How many new ones do you have John. Are any for sale?