I was checking over the 2.1Sd and saw a brown stain in the wheel-house, so picked at it, which revealed a rusty patch, which hadn't yet broken through, but did after tapping it.
There was a thin bit under the car also in one of the strengthening sections, so a piece let in there also.
This car has an oil leak which leaves spots when the engine is running. Some time ago I replaced the sump gasket, but the leak persisted and has become worse.
To check if the crank seal is leaking, remove the lower flywheel cover and wipe the back of the flywheel, where it meets the crank, with your fingers. If they come out oily, the crank seal is leaking.
I've been waiting for the very heavy clutch to wear out, but the oil spots are very annoying, so I've started the job.
Firstly, remove the hydraulics regulator from the bell-housing. Remember to unscrew the sphere a little while the regulator is still bolted on firmly.
Remove the Lhm reservoir and any ducting that will be in the way, release the clutch cable, unbolt the starter motor, driveshafts, etc.
You will need to remove the gearbox mount, so sort a method of suspending the engine. I initially tried axle stands under the sump, but wasn't happy with that arrangement for a few reasons, it could damage the sump and the stands were in the way.
I made a support out of wood and a scaffold pole. The engine has a lifting eye already mounted which I fitted a D type shackle to, as this has rounded profile, so won't cut the rope.
Unclip the gear selector rods and speedometer cable, place a jack under the gearbox, then undo all the bolts holding the gearbox in. You need to remove the gearbox mount, the bracket bolted to the chassis rail and as I couldn't undo the gearbox mount pin due to it being between spanner sizes 15 and 16mm, removed the mount from the gearbox body as well, which is three more bolts.
The battery tray is partially supported by this bracket, so either remove the battery, which was now too late for me, or tie the battery box to the wooden bearer.
You can't fully remove the gearbox with the engine in so just push it over the subframe to create working space. It will sit there, but for surety I added a bolt and tied it up.
It's easiest to remove the clutch diaphragm bolts from underneath. Have bottle, or can to catch the Lhm that is pushed out of the pipes and Fdv as the engine is rotated: the hydraulics pump continues to push fluid out as it rotates with the engine.
I was surprised to find this was the original fitment clutch, that's 168,000+ miles, fitted in 1992 and showing no real signs of wear, but operation is heavy. It sometimes exhibits some judder if not used for some days.
Both the friction and pressure plates are dated '92.
The flywheel has 8 bolts holding it on and a locating dowel, so no need to mark orientation. The bolts came undone readily by using a socket with sliding T handle, taking up the slack and giving the bar a whack with a lump hammer. No need to lock the flywheel, they are only torqued to 45Nm, but do and must, have thread-loc applied.
I have purchased new bolts, which already have thread-loc, but can't really see the necessity for new bolts as they are originally 11.7 hardness (new ones are 12.9) and are only torqued to 45Nm, so won't be stretched.
Removing the flywheel revealed the leak. The bolt holes are blind holes, so oil can't be coming through there.
