Citroen XM Forum

I wonder why the oil sludged up? Make sure you use a quality oil with anti-sludge additives.

Did you chabge the crankshaft oil seals...if not, expect them to start weaping. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but sump gaskets rarely leak, it's normally the crank seals...especially the one behind the flywheel, the more awkward one to do.

Looking clean though there, Neil.

What oil was it running on previously, Eddie?

Dieselman wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 23, 2019 11:01 am

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but sump gaskets rarely leak

I've lost count of how many sump gaskets I've done, only once was it not the gasket and that was because of a tiny crack in the sump.

The engine runs very smooth and quiet, which reflects how much work has been done.

White Exec wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 23, 2019 1:34 pm

What oil was it running on previously, Eddie?

10w40 Fully Synth from Granville

Goldie is finally ready for the test but for one job and, despite Paul's help, I can't resolve it. Everyone here knows my aversion to electrics so this could be an easy solve for someone.

I have a solid red battery light when the engine is running, with the alternator having no 'exciter' wire. I have looked everywhere for it and all I can find is one green wire coming down from the loom that runs through the inlet manifold. Does this wire feed both the alternator and the oil switch as I can't see any other way?

The ring is currently connected to B- which is battery earth. I'm sure the ring needs taking off and a flat putting on and it connecting to the flat connector at the top in the housing..

Assuming the lead hasn't been altered, that is the Battery charge cable connected to the B+ terminal...so correct.

The exciter wire isn't shared with any other device and only illuminates the charge lamp when connected to Gnd, which indicates it is connected somewhere. Possibly the oil pressure switch.

The correct wire will come in with the engine loom from the two connectors under the LHM tank.
I posted a link to the diagrams a while ago, but will look the info up later.

One side of the warning light is connected to 12v+, when IGN switch is on.
The other side goes to an alternator terminal, and when the engine is running, this end is also 12v+, so the light is off.
If alternator is not outputting (failed, or IGN on and engine not running) this second end is at 0v (Gnd), so lamp is lit.

The warning light terminal on the alternator can be identified with a test lamp or meter (one end to Gnd, other to the terminal):
- main battery terminal will always be +12v (permanent batt+), engine running or not.
- warning light terminal will be at 0v when engine is stopped, and +12v with engine running.

The same terminal is used to power up the 'Engine Running' relay, which allows all sorts of things (like HRW, AC) onlt to function with the engine operating.

The warning lamp signal wire comes out of the warning lamp cluster
yellow 15 pin connector, Pin9, orange wire.
dashboard brown 13 pin connector, Pin B1, green / trace wire. (not sure of trace colour Blue or White)
engine loom black 15 pin connector (under lhm tank), pin 3, green/ trace, (not sure of trace colour Blue or White)
Alternator connection.

The lamp is being fed with power, so no need to check the feed side. Start by checking disconnecting the bolt down lead and see if the lamp goes out...if so that is the correct lead and continuity is sound, with no short to Gnd.

I couldn't see the pictures in full earlier. Has the alternator been changed for a different one, in which case is the exciter terminal the flat tab, not the bolt down...as Paul said.

The oil pressure switch wire is green, with no tracer and goes to pin 2 of the 15 pin engine connector. On the assumption that the oil pressure lamp goes out when the engine is running, that is unlikley to be the problem.

Both the charge lamp and oil pressure lamp are activated by the wire being shorted to Gnd...so you can safely test each one without the engine running and just by shorting to Gnd, with the Ign switched on.

See attatched diagrams for S1 cars.

Thanks for posting the S1 diagrams, Will. Have deleted the S2 one above.
Does look like a new alternator.