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Re: Mikes V6 ES9 Manual Exclusive

Posted: Thu May 11, 2017 2:43 pm
by xantia_v6
The failure doesn't seem to be electrical, as the ECU didn't log any faults. The electrovalve came from the car that I dismantled last year, and the suspension seemed to be working. My guess is that a bit of grit has got in and jammed the shuttle.

My garage here is a 19th century stone-built lean-to with dirt floor and tile roof, so it is impossible to keep it dust-free. One of my projects for this summer is to get a concrete floor in and re-plaster the walls.

Re: Mikes V6 ES9 Manual Exclusive

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2018 4:14 pm
by Dieselman
xantia_v6 wrote:I have got the XM out of hibernation, and it seems to be running well.

I spent the last couple of days doing the HA2 hydractive valve modification as per late model Xantias. It all went fairly smoothly, but I had to change the front electrovalve again because it was not switching to soft mode at all. I will open it up later and see what is going on. I will report on comfort after driving it for a bit.

While I was under the car I also swapped the flexi hose from the regulator to the subframe, as it was weeping at one of the crimps.
A bit of resurection here.
Today I've looked at a Series 2 with rock hard suspension. All spheres changed, the rear three being ruptured, and using Pin E2 on the 30 pin diag connector, read a host of codes on the Hydractive ECU. Having reset, the Hydractive light now works on startup, but there is one remaining fault. Code 31, front electro-valve o/c.
I didn't get chance to look, but what is involved in fitting a new electrovalve on H2 suspension? Seems an unusual fault. Having said that, it appears to be the same coil unit as the ACAV valve on the 3.0-24 and they do fail.

Do you have a pic?

Re: Mikes V6 ES9 Manual Exclusive

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2018 4:26 pm
by White Exec
Hi WIll,

The front EV/suspension regulator is mounted on a supporting bracket that attaches to the rear edge of the front subframe.
Usual pipe connections to the regulator need undoing and pulling to one side, plus the electrical connection (unplugs).
Otherwise the regulator and EV are the same as the rear one, and both those on Xantia.

When remounting the support bracket (with regulator attached), be ultra-careful not to trap the 3.5mm plastic return pipe (from front HC) between the bracket and the subframe edge - easily done. Lift the small pipes on that edge upward, and tuck the bracket under them, before bolting down.

Whole thing (at the front) would be a rotten job lying under the car, as access is far more fiddly than at the rear. Best done on a workshop lift.

Re: Mikes V6 ES9 Manual Exclusive

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2018 4:48 pm
by Dieselman
White Exec wrote: Whole thing (at the front) would be a rotten job lying under the car, as access is far more fiddly than at the rear. Best done on a workshop lift.
That's what I thought and hence asked.

I've never known a Series 1 EV fail, so other than when breaking a car not had to remove one. I don't really want the job of removing the stiffness regulator to replace the electrovalve as a job on someone elses daily use car.

Is it possible to remove the Electrovalve without removing the stiffness regulator?

Is it common for S2 electrovalves to fail electrically?

Re: Mikes V6 ES9 Manual Exclusive

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2018 6:19 pm
by xantia_v6
I can't recall ever hearing of an EV coil failing, but the diode which is built-in to the coil often fails, causing the O/C fault to be logged. Try fitting an external diode across the coil (easiest at the ECU connector) before climbing under the car.

The Electrovalve can be changed without removing the bracket or the hydractive block, but the front one on the XM has marginal or negative clearance, and perhaps the bracket has to be flexed slightly (I remember swearing at it). Take great care not to cross thread the valve going back in, as (with the coil mounted on it), it is very difficult to feel when the thread has started correctly.

Re: Mikes V6 ES9 Manual Exclusive

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2018 6:59 pm
by White Exec
Easy, too, to mis-align the 3.5mm steel pipes/unions when re-assembling. Pipework needs to be gently bent out of the way when removing, and must be bent back into position when re-fixing. IIRC, sometimes helps to start the unions on their way back in with the valve (bracket) still loose.
Diodes definitely the first line of attack. EVs don't operate correctly without a working ones.

Re: Mikes V6 ES9 Manual Exclusive

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 8:22 am
by Jan-hendrik
I replaced the front EV about half a year ago as there was too much leak back from it indicating the needle valve not properly sealing. Like Mike I did not remove the bracket and yes, like him, I remember inventing new swear words :oops: It is doable lying under the vehicle, but not much fun!

Re: Mikes V6 ES9 Manual Exclusive

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 9:54 am
by Dieselman
Thanks Guys.
The car already has an ecrofting kit fitted.

I don't have an S2 Hydractive wiring diagram and couldn't see any connector marking depicting pin outs, so couldn't meter the whole circuit with any certainty.
Anyone got a diagram.

Someone has been there before and fitted incorrect front spheres, to attempt to get round this.

Re: Mikes V6 ES9 Manual Exclusive

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 11:10 am
by Jan-hendrik
Someone has been there before and fitted incorrect front spheres, to attempt to get round this.
What kind of spheres have been fitted, so-called comfort spheres?

Re: Mikes V6 ES9 Manual Exclusive

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 11:35 am
by Dieselman
Jan-hendrik wrote:
Someone has been there before and fitted incorrect front spheres, to attempt to get round this.
What kind of spheres have been fitted, so-called comfort spheres?
No numbers or markings on them at all and the threads were binding all the way to being fully unscrewed. The damper hole was at least 1.5mm, so definitely not hydractive spheres.
I suspet they are ruptured as they kept pushing fluid out all the time while being unscrewed, with the suspension in low mode and the regulator bleed open.

I'll test them today to check which are ruptured. I actually suspect all bar the accumulator, which is flat, and the front hydractive regulator, which may not have been seeing pressure due to the permenantly closed valve.