K725KVG latest home -KVG gone; Hello to KBAN-

The place to show off and tell us all about your XMs (or even other cars). Should it be a big project, or just some general pics, start your thread in here.
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Dieselman
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Re: K725KVG latest home

Post by Dieselman » Sun Aug 21, 2016 8:45 pm

miq wrote:
Haha amazing, didn't know there was a fellow xm owner so close to mine. I'd love to see one of your cars at some point if you are a local to have some sort of baseline for mine.

On other news I took the clutch cable out and set it back up, as citroenxm said the cable was the correct one, it's just that somehow it'd managed to be pulled about one clich or two too much. The biting point is a bit higher now, perhaps preloading the clutch lever a few mm I could add even more tension to it but it will do for now. I've also checked under they dash and the pedal stop is where the diagram shows, however, it still has quite a bit of free travel at the top where you can see that the pedal moves but the cable doesn't...may try and make a thicker stop for it.

I also found a cracked pipe that goes from the ns end of the inlet to some sort of actuator (big reduction), replaced it with a couple of bits of silocone pipe and a reduction, we'll see if it makes any difference! As it stands the boost pressure gauge goes up to the R.

Ta

Miq.
It wasn't me that spotted you, but that picture has appeared today. I'm not sure how many S1 XM there are in Nottingham, but can say there was possibly yours and definitely another Series 1 TD there on Friday.

The clutch cable needs free play at both the top and bottom cables for the self adjuster to work. The self adjuster has a collet which releases the outer sheath when the lower cable is fully relaxed and the shim fixed to the inner cable presses down on the collett. At that point the spring stretches the outer sheath so takes up slack. Once the inner cable becomes tensioned by the upper cable being pulled, the shim rises off the collett locking the outer sheath length.
There shouldn't be any slack in the lower cable as the spring should keep it tensioned. You can pull slack, but when it is at rest there shouldn't be any. If the collett is sticking, a spray of lube should free it off and make it work properly.

The pedals will be at different heights, with the brake pedal being the lowest, as the brake pedal hardly moves in operation.



The pipe you have found is the boost pipe that feeds the boost pressure transducer, which operates the dashboard gauge.
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MTXM
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Re: K725KVG latest home

Post by MTXM » Sun Aug 21, 2016 9:12 pm

- Matthew (MTMX): This is all your fault then :lol: I wanted to come and ask you about the car but we were near you in a huge orange van just before the passport control and afterwards they made us go straight in where you went to a cue on the left hand side. I wandered around the cargo area in the ferry trying to find it but I only saw a few DS's. In any case the car looked superb!
I am sorry that we did not meet on the ferry Miq but thank you again for your comments. Hopefully see you at the Chevrons Rally and I should in a 1990 V6 12v that is almost a matching pair to your car! With regards, Matthew T.
1989 V6 Exclusive (Poland car) - Now living in a local Motor Museum!
1990 V6sei auto (grey auto)
1990 V6sei manual (gold car)
1990 V6.24 Pallas (Germany car)
1990 V6.24v (Scotland car)
Other previous XM sold and broken too many to mention!

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miq
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Re: K725KVG latest home

Post by miq » Mon Aug 22, 2016 7:47 am

citroenxm wrote:Did you have a look at the further pics in my photobucket account?
Yes I did, thanks for the link. The car looked in really good condition already when you rescued her. Was it you who changed the steering wheel to the 1 spoke? I much prefer the 1 spoke, however, the wheel that was originally on the car had the controls, so I am wondering if a 1 spoke with controls will work...
Dieselman wrote:The clutch cable needs free play at both the top and bottom cables for the self adjuster to work. The self adjuster has a collet which releases the outer sheath when the lower cable is fully relaxed and the shim fixed to the inner cable presses down on the collett. At that point the spring stretches the outer sheath so takes up slack. Once the inner cable becomes tensioned by the upper cable being pulled, the shim rises off the collett locking the outer sheath length.
There shouldn't be any slack in the lower cable as the spring should keep it tensioned. You can pull slack, but when it is at rest there shouldn't be any. If the collett is sticking, a spray of lube should free it off and make it work properly.

The pedals will be at different heights, with the brake pedal being the lowest, as the brake pedal hardly moves in operation.

The pipe you have found is the boost pipe that feeds the boost pressure transducer, which operates the dashboard gauge.
I think that the main issue was that the self adjuster was not retrieving fully. I still need to get access to the actual adjusting mechanism which is right behind the inlet where the heater core pipes go into the cabin...real hard to spot, so oiling it will be tricky. getting rid of some of the free slack at the gearbox end has definitely made a difference, now I don't need to press the clutch like there is no tomorrow and it doesn't feel like an on/off button anymore. I am wondering why would citroen leave so much free play at the top of the clutch, that's a first for me!

Driving the car to work I didn't have time to warm her up enough to floor it and see where the pressure goes, will check tonight!
MTXM wrote:I am sorry that we did not meet on the ferry Miq but thank you again for your comments. Hopefully see you at the Chevrons Rally and I should in a 1990 V6 12v that is almost a matching pair to your car! With regards, Matthew T.
Your car looked stunning Matthew, can't wait to see it in person!

I will try and spend some time doing a forum search today to see how things work in the car as well as some more adjustments I want to play with.

Miq.

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raynoon
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Re: K725KVG latest home

Post by raynoon » Mon Aug 22, 2016 7:59 am

Miq, your car is a turbo d base model which came without steering wheel stereo controls, it was me who changed the cover back to a standard one without the buttons. The buttons won't work with that stereo fitted. If you fit a stereo that is able to be controlled via the steering wheel buttons I would be willing to swap steering wheel covers with you. Prehaps at Chevrons in a few weeks?
1993 Citroen XM 2.1 turboSD auto
1995 Citroen XM 2.1TD Auto EXCLUSIVE

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miq
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Re: K725KVG latest home

Post by miq » Mon Aug 22, 2016 8:09 am

aha I see Ray. Ok thanks for the offer, I will investigate and let you know...I really like the stereo that's installed at the moment, it's very "period correct" and just got it to work with my ipod and one of those cassettes :)

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raynoon
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Re: K725KVG latest home

Post by raynoon » Mon Aug 22, 2016 8:28 am

Yes that stereo is from the early 90's and the sound is remarkable for such an old machine. If you're worried about security you can remove the credit card sized key code card which renders the unit useless to thieves 😂😂😂

Incidentally, the correct stereos are clarion and most of them have failed circuits inside now, however I'm sure a man with your talents could easily source and repair one? Some of these units also came with CD auto changers for which I'm certain the wiring is already installed in KVG.
1993 Citroen XM 2.1 turboSD auto
1995 Citroen XM 2.1TD Auto EXCLUSIVE

citroenxm
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Re: K725KVG latest home

Post by citroenxm » Mon Aug 22, 2016 9:15 am

The wireing for a factory cd changer is not already fitted and was never part of a factory harness. It was alwaysca seperate 10 pin din to 10 pin din round plug independant lead that connected to the black faced clarion units with rds which were factory fitted by this age. Ive loads of cd changer units here.. And a few compatable head units but i must get them sorted out
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raynoon
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Re: K725KVG latest home

Post by raynoon » Mon Aug 22, 2016 9:13 pm

Paul there is a grey plug at the back of the stereo, the large round CD autochanger type...
1993 Citroen XM 2.1 turboSD auto
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miq
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Re: K725KVG latest home

Post by miq » Tue Aug 23, 2016 9:12 am

For now I will leave the audio system as is, my only issue is that every 10 times that I put a cassette in it spits it out 9, but I'm sure I'll work something out ;)

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miq
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Re: K725KVG latest home

Post by miq » Thu Aug 25, 2016 5:48 pm

So a bit of an update on the xm. Everything is going great, I changed the oil and filter and put some sacrificial 10w40 which I will change after 3 or 4k, mainly because as far as I know the car hasn't been used much recently. I also took the gear linkages to bits, straightened some of them and greased it all. This together with resetting the clutch cable has 70% sorted the clunkyness of the gear box, it's sooooo much better!! it's also getting a lot better as it gets driven, so it definitely needed miles!! Today I had to go to Bath and a few other places for work and I've done a total of 400 miles in it, it's been spotless and used so little diesel too, I'm really amazed.

I also had to change one of the front tyres as I spotted the the inner side was worn, however, the worse thing was that the thread was actually comming off due to age and even the textile underneath was visible! To be honest I only found out because I was working on the area. 30 quid later I had another really good P6000 installed, so still have 4 matching tyres.

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I've also spent some time refurbishing the "chrome" trim around the bumpers and doors as cosmetically it was the only thing letting the car down. I will open a diferent post in the appropriate section explaining how I did this, but I went for a matt/scratched aluminium/stainless finish which I much prefer to shiny chrome anyway. I really like the way it looks, especially compared to the rotten plastic/perished chrome vynil that was previously there (it was also falling apart). The photos don't really make it that much justice as it looks more painted than natural...these are NOT colour matched with the body, they genuinely look like matt ali.

BEFORE:
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AFTER:
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Every now and then I can hear an electric noise coming from the glovebox area, almost like a relay sticking...any ideas?

Regards,

Miq.

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