A conversion...

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xantia_v6
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Re: A conversion...

Post by xantia_v6 » Sat Nov 19, 2016 12:21 am

You had better check the crankshaft end-float, especially as a manual clutch will be pushing or pulling it.
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citroenxm
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Re: A conversion...

Post by citroenxm » Sat Nov 19, 2016 7:58 am

And how do i do that.. how much should it move and if it does whats the next step? Engine in the bin?
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xantia_v6
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Re: A conversion...

Post by xantia_v6 » Sat Nov 19, 2016 8:56 am

You really need a dial gauge attached to the block and crank, and then push and pull the crank hard enough to overcome bearing friction.
There should be very little axial movement, I haven't found the spec for this engine, but I think that 0.1 mm is a typical spec.

If there is much more movement than that, then the main bearings and crank are probably damaged, and you may as well find a 406 engine to go with the gearbox.
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Dean
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Re: A conversion...

Post by Dean » Sat Nov 19, 2016 9:33 am

An auto box shouldn't load the crank like that, at all. Like you say a manual loads the crank every time you push the clutch pedal, end float is usually controlled by way of a shim on one of the crank journals but what we see here would have to be some serious end float on the crank, not only has the flywheel moved to contact the block its also cut into it by what looks like at least 1mm.

I was looking at the photo's last night wondering what could be happening here to cause that damage, the flywheel and flex plate look to be in fine fettle, have you checked to make sure the flywheel has not distorted Paul?

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White Exec
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Re: A conversion...

Post by White Exec » Sat Nov 19, 2016 11:18 am

Many sites on the web emphasise the importance of checking out two gaps when assembling torque converters and flexplates.
eg this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10LTsd-hJkY - lots more: Google 'flexplate torque converter fitting'.

One gap must be smaller than the other, to avoid axially/longitudinally loading the t/c, which would both put pressure on the box front oil seal, and push the t/c and flexplate forward. The t/c obviously needs some freedom to move towards the box, without obstruction.
It's possible that this is what caused that block damage.
Chris
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Re: A conversion...

Post by Dieselman » Sat Nov 19, 2016 11:29 am

If the box has been off before maybe it was put back with the TC already mounted to the flywheel or maybe it's not the correct depth TC.
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Re: A conversion...

Post by citroenxm » Sat Nov 19, 2016 2:57 pm

Hmmm not sure what's going on.. bear in mind a manual box is going on.. so.. should the engine be binned? Should i attach the manual flywheel and see if theres movment by levering prehaps? ?
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Re: A conversion...

Post by Dieselman » Sat Nov 19, 2016 3:05 pm

Attach the flywheel and go from there. Check the crank endfloat, if Ok, just carry on.
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92 3.0 V6-24.Rp 5713 EXY Black
92 2.1SD M.RP 5685 ENT Blue Sideral
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90 2.1SD M.RP 5049 EJV Mandarin
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Re: A conversion...

Post by White Exec » Sat Nov 19, 2016 4:06 pm

That probably is the way to go - all the wobbly auto stuff is being ditched, after all!
The only figure I fell across for crankshaft end-float was in Haynes, which states 0.07-0.32mm for engines other than 2.5, although the manual doesn't cover the V6.
Also check the 'new' flywheel for run-out, before loctiting everything down.
Chris
1996 XM 2.5TD Exclusive RP7165 Polar White
1992 BX19D Millesime RP5800 Sable
1989 BX19RD Delage Red Deceased; 1998 ZX 1.9D Avantage auto Triton Green Company car 1998..2001; 2001 Xantia 1.8i auto Wicked Red Company car 2001..2003

citroenxm
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Re: A conversion...

Post by citroenxm » Sat Nov 19, 2016 5:43 pm

Quick look on service citroen shows ALL bearings still available.. but the Crank is NFP.. and the flywheel and starter ring is NFP... but all else is..

Ill grab a crank seal before the flywheel goes on...

Thanks for sugestions...
Projects:(eventually if theres any bodywork left)
93 L Xm 2.1t D auto project
93 L xm V6 12v Sei Manual

Others
In use.. 1995 M reg S2 2.1td auto exclusive

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