3.0 V6-24 Project

[Dieselman]

The smoke cleared up, but it appears to be running rich and still has a stumble on opening the throttle.

Today I cleaned the relay contacts and inside ones on the ECU and IGN relays, the others are sealed, then decided to check which cylinders had most/least effect when unplugging the HT lead. This test was a bit andom, but I felt that No-5 was performing least well.
The keypad relay was particularly difficult to get working reliably, I could feel the relay vibrating and the engine had a tendency to cut out, especially if the loom was moved at all. This car has a history of cutting out.

I replaced the HT leads and removed all the spark plugs, which were black...but then the engine was quite cold, so would be runnning a richer mixture.

I interrogated the ECU's to check for fault codes and got an impressive list.

Engine
ABS
Hydractive

All reset after, so I will be able to see which ones return.
The ABS has a particularly good showing of faults, but the light goes out after the self test flashes.



The only two for the engine ECU were rear Bank lambda sensor and Active Intake Valve Long. I have noted the Engine warning lamp is lit, presumably as a result of the Lambda sensor fault.

I connected my meter to read the Lambda output voltage and say 0.2v average, but did fluctuate depending on load, so I believe the sensor is working. The engine was still cold, which may well be the reason for the low lambda voltage.
I noted the engine still stumbles slightly so decided to check the distributor cap and rotor arm.

There were two screws holding the cap on, the lowest one was missing. Of the two remaining, the top was was OK, the front one was corroded so the head couldn't be gripped. I had to resort to removing the battery tray, but still couldn't get the screw to turn with mole grips on the head.
I resorted to arc welding a nut over the head of the screw to get more purchase. This went well until actually undoing the screw...when the head snapped off.



I was now able to remove the distributor cap, but there was a screw shank sticking out of the distributor body. This wouldn't turn when gripped with mole grips and it was looking like I might have to remove the distributor body, cut the screw down and drill it out. This was fraught with danger as the screw is steel, the body aluminium.



Another good go with the stick welder and a new nut again saw the screw shear off, but the heat had made the corrosion break the bond. About 15 minutes work with penetrating oil and mole grips saw the screw out. I then re-tapped all tehree holes...just need new screws now. The cap now has one screw and two twisted wireds holding it on...

Back to the main topic.

After a fair bit of extra work on the wiring loom, rleay holders and contacts, I ran the error codes again.

The faults are now
Engine:
25...Intake manifold variable length valve (long)
53...Front Lambda sensor.

Both these meter out as faulty. A new pair of Lambda sensors has arrived and will be fitted to see they improve engine running.
The intake tract solenoid valve is open circuit. It would be the one that is impossible to get to...

ABS faults;
Code 24...LH rear wheel sensor. We shall see. As an aside, does anyone have the ABS wiring diagram?

Hydractive:
Code 24...vehicle speed sensor.

For the blue connector that should have looped back into the loom as an Gnd, I couldn't find any trace of a wire to connect to, so have added a wire and bolted it to Gnd under the LHM tank.



and added a Gnd to the coil/condensor plate. I don't see how a condensor can work without an Gnd connection.



Battery terminals were badly corroded, the wire splaying and oxydised and with additional wires and terminals added making it look like spaghetti.

A rub, cleanup, clean wire strands, twist and solder and removal of bits later we have...



More good news...the HP pump now has two bolts in it, not just the pivot bolt and as a result spins properly and doesn't stall and chirp the belt.
Note there is also now a bolt holding the pipe clamp down to the pump bracket.



You can never have too much good news though and to prove a point.




Having done all that we now have...

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[Dieselman]

An inadvertant prod of the brakes proved two things.

1. The hydraulic system has full presure and the brakes work...well enough to lock the wheel so the car couldn't move under power.

2. The scuttle needed to come off.

The scuttle was full of debris and the bell-crank was jammed very solidy. Remove, cleanuop, lube, replace. All is now well.

[Dean]

Radiators are common enough it's just the ball ache of swapping it out, had you sorted the coolant out when you found the leak? that's usually the way.

Sounds nice and crisp now though and will only smooth out further with use, i take it your also enjoying yourself with this one....

D

[citroenxm]

Sensors car joined to the main harness above the subframe.. you can get to the connectors above the strut areas of the frame they are clipped down.. if the sensor is really away it is likely to be a smash out job and replace.. but with sitting could well be the connector.

[Dieselman]

Sensors car joined to the main harness above the subframe.. you can get to the connectors above the strut areas of the frame they are clipped down.. if the sensor is really away it is likely to be a smash out job and replace.. but with sitting could well be the connector.

I'm hoping it's the connector.

Getting hold of a replacement to fit would be a challenge. Fortunately the Mandarin car has working ABS, so I'll swap the rear arm, if necessary.

Any idea how to get to the variable intake transducer..it's the "long" one which is burried under the fuel rail at the rear of the intake housing. Getting to the conenctor to meter it was a challenge.

Now it has working brakes (not park brake...that's still not working), I intend to do the Lambda sensors today.

Been sent the wrong oil filter, so need to go and buy one.

[Dieselman]

Radiators are common enough it's just the ball ache of swapping it out, had you sorted the coolant out when you found the leak? that's usually the way.

Sounds nice and crisp now though and will only smooth out further with use, i take it your also enjoying yourself with this one....

D

I put some descaler in the system and changed the header tank. That clearly showed the radiator to be faulty. It won't get antifreeze in it until it stops turning my drive rusty brown.

[citroenxm]

Id not worry about the acav valves just yet.. i find adequte performance in mine and not worried about if it works or not though saying that ive no management light on either...

Be aware and sure that the R clip comes out as well as the antiroll bar bolts.. all can prevent an arm remoal. Ive got a complete subframe off my old H reg sed simply because the abs worked and i cannot get the arms off because of R clip strut to arm .. so will need to look at what to destroy to get them stripped down... a strut piston or arm.. my guess is strut piston as they are the same as C5 rear strut pistons..

[xmexclusive]

Car rear piston sizes are different, Mk1 XM's are 1mm smaller dia.

John

[Dieselman]

To get a recalcitrant R clip out, I would drill a hole in the subframe lower plate, then drift it out.

[xmexclusive]

Some subframes already have a suitable hole for a long drift.
Getting in to cut off the R clip ends tight and square enough to suit drifting is difficult as they sit in a recess in the alloy arm.
I have used the hole and a threaded hook bolt in the ring of the R clip first to try pulling the clip out under tension.

John