Citroen XM Forum

..............Mine does.........and the ECU isn't getting a speed signal, mmmm.

D

White Exec wrote:On the slipping belt issue, is there the possibility of twinning two pulleys (two belts) together (simple weld or bolt job?), which should more than cope, and maybe allow bearing load to be reduced ?

I was going to do this but the clearance for to the heater matrix pipes and hydraulic pipes is very tight in this area.

D

Ive never known sport mode to engage either with a simple rev...

A thought.. can you really get an engine and sensors to run correctly thats sat for neumerous years.. then prior to that is the car know to have been tickle driven or driven well and hard? Id be getting the car structurly sorted.. then mot ready and then a good hard blast.. i appriciate you need it running right prior to mot.. but it may just need to damm good hot thrash.

Dieselman wrote:Not below 30km/h.

Not necessarily. The rule is 30 seconds or 30 kmh, whichever comes first (24 kmh in the case of Hydractive 2). When this happens, the ECU will assume the normal driving behaviour.

citroenxm wrote:Ive never known sport mode to engage either with a simple rev...

A thought.. can you really get an engine and sensors to run correctly thats sat for neumerous years.. then prior to that is the car know to have been tickle driven or driven well and hard? Id be getting the car structurly sorted.. then mot ready and then a good hard blast.. i appriciate you need it running right prior to mot.. but it may just need to damm good hot thrash.

The way this doesn't appear to be a random malfunction, coupled with the Lambda outputs tells me this isn't going to be fixed with a thrashing. There is something not right when it's in closed loop operation, which fixes itself when in open loop.

Other bits are getting done along the way and once I get to a certain stage, the Mandarin car will be attacked with gusto and the welder will be used in earnest.

I intend to attack the old car with a recipricating saw to retrieve all metalwork required, then weld it into this car, instead of fabbing new sections. This should give a factory appearance...he says...

I'm sufferring a bit at present, so underbody work is going to be a bit slower than planned.

Get a shifty on Dieselman.... I've got money on this car appearing at this years Chevrons Rally!

raynoon wrote:Get a shifty on Dieselman.... I've got money on this car appearing at this years Chevrons Rally!

If I could get it running properly, I'd give that a good go...complete with dented panels.

If it starts, moves, stops and can get a test ticket, it will be moving.

Not done much today and now it's raining, so not much is likely.

i have metered the lambda outputs back at the sensor cables and disconnected from the car wiring loom. The front sensor has very little output, generally much less than 0.1v, so I believe the new Bosch sensor is faulty. I have asked for a replacement and will let you know.

To sataisfy myself...and Dean, I metered the TPS at throttle closed and it was below 0.5v.

What were you getting on the TPS Will, .46v?

Hope it is a duff sensor, front one too you lucky bugger!

D

About 0.48v, Dean. Constant and repeating.

This afternoon I've done a few small jobs.

Fitted a new hydro belt, which has stopped the chirping and slippage.

Had the front wheels off and fitted the park brake cables and tensioned them enough so they won't jump out again. It's comforting to have a fully functioning parking brake.

Changed the oil and filter. I've been meaning to do this since I got the car, but wanted to know I wasn't going to be tearing the engine apart before committing.

Getting the old filter off would have been a challenge, but I have a decent strap wrench which I was able to slip over it and get good grip. The issue is general lack of space, coupled with the filter being very large, so a regular filter tool couldn't get over the end of it as it nearly touches the radiator.
The new perflux filter is about 2/3rds the length.

I chose to suck the oil out with my electric pump. Warm the engine and suck away...whats not to like.

The old oil was a bit sludgy. In hindsight, I wish I'd used a flushing agent to clean the engine internals more.



And 6.5 litres of new Quartz "Racing" oil later the valve-train will be protected.

This oil is very clear in colour and obviously thicker than regular engine oils nowadays. Nice and slippery though.