2.0 8V bottom end rebuild (by idiots)

[eyesoreracing]

Hi everyone, I'm an idiot.

I, and my idiot friend will be attempting to fix the engine in his 2.0 8V, manual transmission XM. Everything about the car is perfect except for the complete lack of compression in two cylinders (and a hint of rod knock. And that bearing noise in the transmission...)

We both know which end of a wrench to swing, but we've never had a Citroen apart before and we're hoping for helpful advice on pulling the engine and tearing it down. I'm assuming we'll need to pull engine and transmission as a unit and separate them on the ground, but if you can pull just the engine, I'd love to know that now. I'd also like to know that we don't need to remove the A/C compressor, or the magic suspension pump thingy.

We won't start work for at least another week, so you have that much time to tell us all the helpful things we'll need to know. Or talk us out of it.

Merci in advance.

[Dieselman]

Doesn't sound like you're an idiot...

You can actually rebuild the Xu10 engine in situ, as long as you don't need the crank out of it, but seeing as the gearbox needs an input shaft bearing, just pull both units and go for it.
You can either unbolt the complete nosecone and swing the drivetrain forwards and out, or leave the nose on, disconnect the bonnet gas struts and raise it to vertical, then lift the engine. You may need to remove the grey scuttle trim to allow the bonnet to raise to vertical. There are no latches at vertical, so secure it.

The Xu10 (2.0i) is a really simple engine and very easy to work on.

Official workshop manuals are linked here http://files.cinnamoncars.com/citroen/xm/mec.html

The Haynes manual covers all you need and the Peter Russek manual is linked to here viewtopic.php?f=13&t=10603
Haynes is easier to read so look online if you don't have one.

Don't worry about the hydraulics, it will probably take longer trying to leave them in situ than it takes to reconnect them. Disconnect the regulator pipes and lift it out with the engine.
Take a picture of the hydraulic pipes connected to the regulator and FDV before disconnection, so they go back on in the correct order. Only undo the ones that go to the body.
The engine loom connector is under the Lhm tank, just behind the battery box.

After checking the reason for lost compression, valves, or rings, I would probably remove the cylinder head and check the bores. Take the manifolds off with the head.
If it needs re-boring and the crank grinding, remove the block, if not leave it in situ and install new rings, bearing shells, etc.
The oil consumption is likely to be the valve guide seals are worn out, could be more, but check before condemning.

Engine machining is cheap, having an engine builder rework a complete engine is very costly. Perform your own labour, it will be fun and you will learn a lot.

[eyesoreracing]

Wow, this is precisely the information I was hoping for. This will give us a great head start so we can avoid early mistakes and just focus on making big mistakes. Thank you!

[Dieselman]

Most of us have made much bigger mistakes than you are going to.

Regarding the crankshaft, you can polish the journals using wet and dry paper and sneak new big end and main bearing shells in with it still mounted, but if you really need it out, can push the gearbox on top of the subframe, then remove the flywheel and crank. I would aim to install a new main crank seal while you have access.