Buggrit - anyone have some spare 2.0 exhaust valves?

[citroenxm]

Dean, Iva ALREADY got spare boost pipes because I had complete Turbos BOTH runners and made one runner from them both...

The boost pipes are in a box sitting, and were gonna be offered with the car, but if someone wants them seperatly then thats fine.. Got a spare Blower too... got everything some were really... I should have a waste gate control vac junction controller thingy... the thing that sits on the rear and connects to the wastegate...

The spare block will be fine were it is for now.. Ill keep if you are DEFENATLY interested.. I wont waste things

Paul

[Dean]

Sorry Paul, bit slow on the uptake there , and yes positive about the block and box, same for the controler thingy that sits at the back of the engine bay too, obviously a collect job unless someone is up that way and has room in the glove box, or maybe not no idea when i can get to you though, wont have room till we have bought a house so its a bit how longs a piece of string time-wise
If you have to be shot of it i will see what i can do though, maybe put it in the living room with some toughened glass resting on top

D

[andmcit]

What a diabolical pile of rubbish the contents of a 2.0i Turbo engine bay are. FFS, all attempts at trying to get
the bottom crank pulley off have been defeated this evening and it now seems I'm in the process off complete
dismantling of everything into the bargain; this rate Dean the bits I'm taking off will be yours...

Andrew

[Dean]

Is there top end damage Andrew, whats the problem?

D

[andmcit]

I'm just a tad hacked off - does it show?

Well at least I don't think there's any real damage yet!! As I started proceedings this evening I had the
old naff belt still in situ with a tidy second hand tensioner temporarily setting the timing all correct
or so I thought pinned with my timing pin set.

I put the manual box in second and lowered both wheels on the floor and put the handbrake on HARD
and tried to undo the bottom bolt whilst struggling around all the attendant crap that's still in situ such
as the hydraulic pump/alternator/ECU and loom etc and the damned crank still turned. For whatever
reason I had the top pin in the camshaft and basically the flaky belt snapped though the crank barely
moved more than a few degrees thankfully - guess I was kind of expecting something to slip. I'm not sure
why the engine wasn't locked in gear and can only assume the gearbox wasn't engaged properly. Only
way forwards now is removal of the crappy bottom timing cover...

After a real faff struggling to remove the induction feed above the gearbox and undoing the x3 bolts
holding the starter motor to drop it forwards amongst the spaghetti of pipework I tried pegging the
stepped pin through the small opening in the block that locks into the flywheel but the damned thing
won't go in far enough and doesn't go in. I'm even beginning to wonder whether the whole lot is now out
of whack in terms of the reference for the flywheel opening and the two points on the timing belt
end whilst pinned, aren't right and it needs another full engine revolution - not easy now I've lost the
ratty timing belt...

am I losing the plot!!? Surely the pin on the outer crank pulley if pegged will match the flywheel end?
BTW, the end crank pulley has the hole running at an angle through the inner and outwards into the outer
but appears to be in two pieces.

I believe there may be a chance of locking against the starter teeth from the new opening left by the
starter being dropped so this may be the next option. I guess when I'm not feeling pissed off with
proceedings I can work out which valves are opening and closing with the rocker cover off tomorrow.

I'm finding this whole process a real chore as the Xantia 1.9TD/2.0i petrol and n/a 2.0i Xm have all had
a cut out on the top of the box where I can lock it with a sturdy no nonsense chisel on the starter ring
teeth and haven't been beaten yet, until I had the misfortune to try undoing the crank bolt on this box!!
I've studied the box from all sides and was half expecting a plate on the lower ledge of the box even
as per the dear old CX's but no dice.

Now a CX, now we're talking! None of this crap rubber band nonsense on the proper versions, hell's
angel chains and even oil fed geared cogs on the original 2.5 diesel that would last FOREVER!!

Andrew

[Dean]

I'm just a tad hacked off - does it show?

A little bit yeah, look on the bright side though , at least you decided not to run it on the old belt otherwise that would have been bad news

Sounds like you have the earlier, and safe! two part pulley, with the round? pin in place there is no way you can be out on the timing, i know what you mean, that pulley if a pain because you cant have the timing pin in when undoing the thing because it obscures the bolt head.
The trouble with trying to get the two pins in though is that you can have the pulley one in place but the flywheel one wont line up because there is slight play on the pulley with the pin in, if you know what i mean so it's not enough that its just in there, it has to be centered, 1 mm out in of alignment at the bottom pulley could be 10mm out at the outside of the flywheel, so a little jiggling is needed, needless to say the flywheel locking point is more accurate, if you can find it.

D

[andmcit]

I WAS losing the plot regarding the timing locking pins! I blame the whack on my head this evening
when I braked a tad sharply in the Xantia when I first got in it this evening to come home and
nutmegged the sun visor I had left slightly down. Yes, the brakes on the V6 Xantia ARE THAT GOOD!!!
Got a real bruise on my temple and look a real head case.

I'm actually thinking of the camshaft pin notch/peg being 'out' of true with the crank being right and
where it needs another full turn to get the pair matched on the correct points to pin for timing.

Today the pin I've been using for the bottom location of the crank pulley is actually a socket set/
screwdriver style handle with a 3/8 drive that is perfect for engaging into the two lugs on the end
of the engine block. It is a perfect grip and there's no wobble so I was disappointed the flywheel
end didn't want to play ball - if anything, that's a tight fit so perhaps when I'm back at it tomorrow
teatime after work I'll find the damned thing just slots straight in with no hesitation.

Andrew

[steelcityuk]

Howdy all,

It seemed that 1 was up on compression. Strangely the head looks clean and after a very cursory look the cylinders look ok, no feel of defined wear lip at the top of them, the engine used no oil to speak of and didn't smoke. It is possible that the timing belt was out by a tooth or so. I intend to pin the flywheel when rebuilding it to ensure as much accuracy as possible. It surprises me just how weedy the timing belt looks after the 2.5s. Just a quick question, can shims be bought from elsewhere - engine rebuilders maybe?

Currently I'm in the process of revamping the mother in laws bathroom (which has included fitting a new combi boiler to a primary system, adding radiators, moving and bricking up windows, new soil pipe, etc.) so I haven't had much time to do anything involved for weeks. Hopefully by the end of this week it'll be ready for tiling so I'll get a short break.

Before starting to strip the head I cracked the crankbolt using the starter method, mainly because I've struggled with them before. I'm not keen on the process but it does seem to work. I wonder if anyone has ever done that without disabling the engine first?

Steve.

[citroenxm]

I ALWAYS use the starter on the DERV XUD engines with great sucess!! It cant do any harm, and the starter has more strength then you and I and a few others put together...

Just make sure the bar and socket is securley held against the Bolt head...

Without disableing the engine?? I guess it would start and the bolt would unscrew all the way out and fall to the floor.. if the crank pull is a tight slide on it may stay in place...

Paul

[andmcit]

Thing is I CANNOT use the starter motor method!! OK, so the starter's not even connected at the
moment anyhow, but neither is the timing belt either...

How the hell am I supposed to undo the bottom pulley bolt!!!?? I still don't fancy using an 8mm
tip of a metal rod braced against the turning torque of the engine and mass of the flywheel etc.
This could end in calamity especially if it slips and lets go big time and turns the bottom half of
the engine whilst the top half is doing it's own thing minding it's own business!!

Andrew