XM Virginia USA

[Stickfinger]

Just last week someone was giving away a SM to be restore in California , I am sure still some to be found as barn finds in USA .

Btw on the way back I pass by Philadelphia and pick up another Citroen

If only the rest of the World hadn't thrown a strop and changed the side of road they drove on, we would have had much better opportunities for driving rust free classics.

No reason not to drive a Left hooker in the UK and enjoy a rust free life.....there really are no downsides

45743065_1331072737033682_5502150794654253056_n.jpg

[Dieselman]

Don't you find LHD awkward if using the car on a daily basis?

Lhd isn't for me.

[Stickfinger]

I have had a few LHD cars in the UK, I have never found driving them a problem in any way whatsoever .... I have no idea why anyone would regard them in any way "awkward"

[antonioconceicao]

Hello everyone ,

After almost a year the XM is ready for its first big service !


Put around 20k miles on it and since I got it I notice all the spheres where kind of old based on the date stamp. I actually got all new spheres for it , I hope to have it on the lift this saturday.

Oil and filter was replaced every 3000 miles, got a new air filter that I will change.

Car drove great no problems at all and I hope to keep it running for a while but I need help.

The heater fan stop working last week and I need to figure it out how to trouble shooter , I did a quick check and no fuse inside the car seems to be burn

I notice the light of the AC button will not come on also

Any leads will be great
Antonio

[Dieselman]

I'm assuming you have push button, full climate control, as opposed to the rotary dials and A/c.

Gabor's circuit diagrams may be a help to you, but the fuses will probably be different, as yours is a Series 1 car.
download/file.php?id=9711

The Climate control thread in the Self Help files has the Xm climate control technical manual.
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=10604

Please see attached circuit diagram for the Climate Control system.

Tha fan is fed by +12v and Gnd and has a controller mounted directly onto the fan unit.
The variable fan speed is controlled by a pair of darlington transistors being variably dragged to Gnd via the Climate Control unit. The lower the resistance to Gnd, the faster the fan spins due to the transistors switching on more.
The lower the voltage on Pin-3 of the fan controller, the faster the motor spins, until the relay is switched on for full speed.
Full speed is switched by the relay closing, thus a direct shunt to Gnd is achieved. Try turning the fan speed to full, as that should use the relay, bypassing the transistors.
The transistors are known to fail and can either be replaced individually, or a replacement fan control PWB can be purchased.

This means you can test the fan by applying +12v and Gnd, then shunting the relay to Gnd.

It is known for the fuse holder to become overloaded and the fuse to no longer make proper contact, so cutting +12v to the Climate Control.
Also note there is a thermal overload switch built into the fan motor, which could cut supply to the motor itself. the thermal switch is on the +ve feed side of the motor, so applying power here and Gnd to the other side should make the fan operate at full speed.

Fuses and relays are in the below, linked, thread.
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=10268
.

[antonioconceicao]

This is the reason I love my XM , citroen peple love to help, thanks again

Sorry I did not post a picture of the dials, my fuse box shows F25 30a fuse for climate system

Climate control XM 92.jpg

Antonio

I'm assuming you have push button, full climate control, as opposed to the rotary dials and A/c.

Gabor's circuit diagrams may be a help to you, but the fuses will probably be different, as yours is a Series 1 car.
download/file.php?id=9711

The Climate control thread in the Self Help files has the Xm climate control technical manual.
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=10604

Please see attached circuit diagram for the Climate Control system.

Tha fan is fed by +12v and Gnd and has a controller mounted directly onto the fan unit.
The variable fan speed is controlled by a pair of darlington transistors being variably dragged to Gnd via the Climate Control unit. The lower the resistance to Gnd, the faster the fan spins due to the transistors switching on more.
The lower the voltage on Pin-3 of the fan controller, the faster the motor spins, until the relay is switched on for full speed.
Full speed is switched by the relay closing, thus a direct shunt to Gnd is achieved. Try turning the fan speed to full, as that should use the relay, bypassing the transistors.
The transistors are known to fail and can either be replaced individually, or a replacement fan control PWB can be purchased.

This means you can test the fan by applying +12v and Gnd, then shunting the relay to Gnd.

It is known for the fuse holder to become overloaded and the fuse to no longer make proper contact, so cutting +12v to the Climate Control.
Also note there is a thermal overload switch built into the fan motor, which could cut supply to the motor itself. the thermal switch is on the +ve feed side of the motor, so applying power here and Gnd to the other side should make the fan operate at full speed.

Fuses and relays are in the below, linked, thread.
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=10268
.

[Dieselman]

The Simple heater blower circuit is covered in the Haynes manual circuit diagrams (diagram 9) in the thread I linked to...and linked below.

download/file.php?id=10203

The fan is the same unit, so the controller works just the same.
F25 is the main Batt power feed, but F9 is the Ign switched feed. Either fuse wil stop the fan working.
I believe the fuse designations shown in the Haynes manual are for Series-2 Xm, not S1.
Xm Series 1 fuses.
download/file.php?id=10382

Firstly I would test the fan actually works, then check Gnds and power feeds, then go from there.

Having looked at the Haynes wiring diagram I was incorrect with how the transistors were triggered. As the base voltage creeps upwards the transistor will turn on more and the fan spin faster.
The second transistor controls the relay, which gives full speed.
That means with the control unit dsconnected the fan should run at full speed as the voltage fed through the resistor from the motor +ve feed will float upwards and trigger the transistors. I would need to test this to be sure.

[antonioconceicao]

Thanks for all the help

We are working on it , but I been asked how to remove the unit where the knobs are? marked in red?

Climate control XM 92 to be removed.jpg

[antonioconceicao]

Found out that dials come out and there is 2 screws , its out


No help need it this time

Antonio

Thanks for all the help

We are working on it , but I been asked how to remove the unit where the knobs are? marked in red?

Climate control XM 92 to be removed.jpg

[antonioconceicao]

You are right sir!

It does run set on high , it comes on after 10 seconds everytime .

I will order the transistors and replace it at the fan .

I also notice F25 and F9 fuse is not longer being used for the heater fan , someone run a wire straight from ignition , no fuse but I will add a 30a fuse and make a note on the car book for future trouble shootings.

Thanks a lot for the help

Antonio

The Simple heater blower circuit is covered in the Haynes manual circuit diagrams (diagram 9) in the thread I linked to...and linked below.

download/file.php?id=10203

The fan is the same unit, so the controller works just the same.
F25 is the main Batt power feed, but F9 is the Ign switched feed. Either fuse wil stop the fan working.
I believe the fuse designations shown in the Haynes manual are for Series-2 Xm, not S1.
Xm Series 1 fuses.
download/file.php?id=10382

Firstly I would test the fan actually works, then check Gnds and power feeds, then go from there.

Having looked at the Haynes wiring diagram I was incorrect with how the transistors were triggered. As the base voltage creeps upwards the transistor will turn on more and the fan spin faster.
The second transistor controls the relay, which gives full speed.
That means with the control unit dsconnected the fan should run at full speed as the voltage fed through the resistor from the motor +ve feed will float upwards and trigger the transistors. I would need to test this to be sure.