My First Car - Y3 2.1TD

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Dieselman
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Re: My First Car - Y3 2.1TD

Post by Dieselman » Wed Nov 25, 2020 6:49 am

I believe that rubber tearing is often a result of driving with flat spheres.
The suspension loads are transferred through to the rubber as high force, shock, loads.
With properly charged spheres the loads are vastly reduced and are a progressive loading, instead of shock.
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Mitki4a
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Re: My First Car - Y3 2.1TD

Post by Mitki4a » Fri Nov 27, 2020 10:51 am

Dieselman wrote:
Wed Nov 25, 2020 6:49 am
I believe that rubber tearing is often a result of driving with flat spheres.
The suspension loads are transferred through to the rubber as high force, shock, loads.
With properly charged spheres the loads are vastly reduced and are a progressive loading, instead of shock.
Indeed some spheres were half the pressure when we checked and filled them a week after I bought it.

Some other things I've forgotten to mention.
I replaced the glow plugs but it is still having trouble cold starting. Most times the glow plug light doesn't light up at all. I've been looking over it in the past days and it seems that early in the morning when it is around 3 degrees it always lights up and starts easily. 5+ degrees and later in the day they don't seem to be engaging at all. I'm suspecting a faulty relay, if anyone could point out where exactly the one for the glow plugs is on Y3 2.1td cars.

Often I get a weird relatively loud ticking noise from between the steering wheel and door card area. It even reminds me of a fan scratching something but it is not affected by the heater and the driver's side vent is blowing fine. I think it is most likely coming from the fuse box and have no idea what may be making that noise. I need to investigate that but can't most of the time because I'm driving when it happens. It goes away after about 5sec.

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White Exec
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1996 2.5TD saloon, Exclusive, Polar White
Location: ex-Ealing, Cheshire, W.Sussex & Surrey. Now living in Sayalonga (Malaga, Spain)

Re: My First Car - Y3 2.1TD

Post by White Exec » Fri Nov 27, 2020 11:06 am

The GP light is controlled by the GP relay.
It's located near the battery - see here: https://citroen.tramontana.co.hu/en/ele ... -part-list - it's #59 in the photos.
Lots of good XM info on that site, as well as suspension, etc in the 'Citroen Technical Guide'.

On the XM, the action of the GPs (pre-heating and post-heating) is dependent on engine (coolant) temperature, so if the car has been run in the previous few hours, the GP-on time may be very short.

When cold, the dash light may go out after a number of seconds, but the heating will continue (post-heating produces a cleaner start than just pre-heating), depending on coolant temp. The going out of the light just tells you it's ok to start.

The GP relay can misbehave if any of its base contacts (or internal ones) are dirty. Best removed, and everything cleaned up.
If you need to replace it, new ones are available (from Citroen and aftermarket) but make sure you get exactly the correct type - there are many variations.

GPs should be taking about 10amp each (i.e. 40A total) if working properly.
If replacing, go for BERU brand.
___________

Ticking noise in region of fuse-/relay board:
This could be the direction indicator relay chattering.
Metal dust debris inside the direction (lighting) stalk can cause tracking inside the stalk switch, and the relay to chatter.
Try gently lifting and lowering the L-R indicator stalk (without actually throwing it all the way), and if the chattering varies, then the complete stalk switch should be replaced. New ones still available; even the Chinese versions are good.
Chris
1996 XM 2.5TD Exclusive RP7165 Polar White
1992 BX19D Millesime RP5800 Sable
1989 BX19RD Delage Red Deceased; 1998 ZX 1.9D Avantage auto Triton Green Company car 1998..2001; 2001 Xantia 1.8i auto Wicked Red Company car 2001..2003

Dieselman
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Re: My First Car - Y3 2.1TD

Post by Dieselman » Sat Nov 28, 2020 7:22 am

Mitki4a wrote:
Thu Nov 19, 2020 7:37 pm

My oil level gauge doesn't work, it lights up but needle doesn't move.
Before condemning the oil level sender check the circuit board on the back of the instruments unit.
I've had one with a burned out diode and resistor, which stopped the oil level gauge registering.

The poor staring is probably air in the fuel system, which would also account for the "choppy" accelerator response.
As the engine calls for more fuel it increases the suction on the fuel pipes, which draws more air in.

For the glowplug lamp, I'm confident it will be either a blown bulb, or cracked solder joints on the instrument cluster connector.

The indicator stalk contacts can be stripped and cleaned out.
Typically copper fragments cause a contact to be made when the switch is in the centre position.

see this thread.
http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... =13&t=1773
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Mitki4a
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Re: My First Car - Y3 2.1TD

Post by Mitki4a » Sun Dec 13, 2020 11:22 am

We had a good flush of the system and power steering is fine now. Accumator sphere was also ruptured.
I notice some water coming through the little grille for the temperature sensor next to the lights on the ceiling. I read this could be related to the aerial and not sunroof? I will take it apart and have a good look at it.

Also sometimes when it has sunk and I start the engine after a few seconds I get a muffled 'thump' noise and car rocks slightly. Might have to do with pressure not equalizing properly?

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Re: My First Car - Y3 2.1TD

Post by Dieselman » Tue Dec 15, 2020 7:47 am

Mitki4a wrote:
Sun Dec 13, 2020 11:22 am
I notice some water coming through the little grille for the temperature sensor next to the lights on the ceiling. I read this could be related to the aerial and not sunroof? I will take it apart and have a good look at it.

Also sometimes when it has sunk and I start the engine after a few seconds I get a muffled 'thump' noise and car rocks slightly. Might have to do with pressure not equalizing properly?
Water dripping from the roof console is almost certain to be the sunroof leaking.
Aerials don't normally leak and if it did, the water is going to come out of the small sun visor by the mirror, as the aerial is mounted there.

The slight thud and movement you feel is just the hydraulic pressure building and releasing the hydractive hydraulic blocks. This is normal.
92 2.1SED M.RP5740 ECZ Sable Phenicien
92 3.0 V6-24.Rp 5713 EXY Black
92 2.1SD M.RP 5685 ENT Blue Sideral
Prev
90 2.1SD M.RP 5049 EJV Mandarin
92 2.1SD A.RP 5698 EJV Mandarin
94 2.1SD A.RP 6218 ERT Triton Green
91 2.0SI M.RP 5187 EWT White

Mitki4a
Can find the S1 radio
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed Oct 21, 2020 7:37 pm

Re: My First Car - Y3 2.1TD

Post by Mitki4a » Sat Dec 19, 2020 2:59 pm

Dieselman wrote:
Tue Dec 15, 2020 7:47 am
Mitki4a wrote:
Sun Dec 13, 2020 11:22 am
I notice some water coming through the little grille for the temperature sensor next to the lights on the ceiling. I read this could be related to the aerial and not sunroof? I will take it apart and have a good look at it.

Also sometimes when it has sunk and I start the engine after a few seconds I get a muffled 'thump' noise and car rocks slightly. Might have to do with pressure not equalizing properly?
Water dripping from the roof console is almost certain to be the sunroof leaking.
I will investigate that and report. Probably need to check for clogged up drainage tubes, or replace a seal.

Meanwhile i am trying to remove the glovebox to change out its little strut. Removed all 4 screws but cannot free up 1 of the pins of the opening mechanism, the one right next to the lock. Tried prying it with screwdriver but doesn't move much. Pulling the handle moves it sideways but I just can't figure out how to push it in enough. The pin on the other side freed up very quickly.

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Re: My First Car - Y3 2.1TD

Post by xmexclusive » Sat Dec 19, 2020 4:28 pm

The internal light needs to be removed as its body projects under the dash skin.
The glove box rotates up from the rear.
There are 3 screws in a row below the lid hinge across the back of the glove box.
These are well recessed and not easy to spot.

On roof water ingress check and reseal the roof aerial as it is the most common cause of a wet internal centre light.
Far easier to check and repair than the sunroof so rule the aerial base out first.
All 4 sunroof drains need to be blocked for the sunroof to fill up with water.
You will know about this if you brake hard as water will shower from the sun visors as well as the centre light.
If one of the sunroof drains tubes has pulled loose (push fit, no clamp) the headlining will be soaking wet in that corner only.
Be very careful if you need to clean the sunroof drain tubes.
Compressed air at too high a pressure and can open the push fit joints.
If you do rebuild a sunroof the fit clamps to the overflow tubes when you reinstall.
The actual tubes are very thin walled and have bends that are easily pierced so be very careful if you opt for rodding .
Only the rear tubes can be got at and replaced but with quite a bit of stripping.
Front tubes run inside the "A" pillars which on most XM's are foam filled so not replaceable.

Mitki4a
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Re: My First Car - Y3 2.1TD

Post by Mitki4a » Sat Dec 19, 2020 5:42 pm

xmexclusive wrote:
Sat Dec 19, 2020 4:28 pm
The internal light needs to be removed as its body projects under the dash skin.
The glove box rotates up from the rear.
There are 3 screws in a row below the lid hinge across the back of the glove box.
These are well recessed and not easy to spot.

On roof water ingress check and reseal the roof aerial as it is the most common cause of a wet internal centre light.
Far easier to check and repair than the sunroof so rule the aerial base out first.
All 4 sunroof drains need to be blocked for the sunroof to fill up with water.
You will know about this if you brake hard as water will shower from the sun visors as well as the centre light.
If one of the sunroof drains tubes has pulled loose (push fit, no clamp) the headlining will be soaking wet in that corner only.
Be very careful if you need to clean the sunroof drain tubes.
Compressed air at too high a pressure and can open the push fit joints.
If you do rebuild a sunroof the fit clamps to the overflow tubes when you reinstall.
The actual tubes are very thin walled and have bends that are easily pierced so be very careful if you opt for rodding .
Only the rear tubes can be got at and replaced but with quite a bit of stripping.
Front tubes run inside the "A" pillars which on most XM's are foam filled so not replaceable.
Thanks for the comprehensive explanation. Indeed I removed the light and 4 screws on the corners but did not see the screws across the back of the glovebox. Will check tomorrow. There was one on the each side of the windshield vent but I guess that is not related.

Mitki4a
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Re: My First Car - Y3 2.1TD

Post by Mitki4a » Sun Dec 20, 2020 12:32 pm

I had removed all the screws but it just required more force to get it out. Getting it back in is proving to be a pain. I try to fit the front 1st, where the pins for the mechanism are, but when i push it in so it fits at the back the mechanism gets stuck and i can't make it close now.

Ps nevermind just fixed it properly and it now works. Just a warning to anyone about to do this job pack some patience :lol:

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