Citroen XM Forum

Hi

Been away from XMs for several years but recently purchased 2.1 TD (RP 8032) with major hydraulic leak , no exhaust, several electrical problems and in need of a respray... something to keep me occupied (and probably a diminishing bank account)

Major problem is the hydraulics which has a high pressure (small bore) line that has been severed near the n.s. rear wheel arch but despite several inspections I haven't been able to find out which item that that severed pipe should be servicing

Question is: Is there a diagram for the hydractive2 that shows where all the pipes run to? I cant find one anywhere . Once I have fixed that I can attach an exhaust and get the car moving again at least
Cheers

Hi Marty,

Welcome back!
Herewith hydraulic layout for Hydractive2 DIRASS (non-DIRAVI): Hope helpful.

Hi Chris

it certainly is! judging by what I can see the pipe I am looking for is on the other side of the car from where I have been looking so no wonder I couldn't find what I was looking for.

ATB
Simon

Drop the rear subframe for easy access to all the hydraulic pipes...keep it mounted for terrible access.

Raise and prop the rear of the car, spare wheel carrier off, exhaust centre and rear off, fuel tank straps off but bolts back in, wheelarch liners out, unclip the pipes under the car, undo the four subframe mounting bolts and lower on a jack.

The most common area for pipe failure is as it turns upwards at the front of the subframe, due to the road wheel dirt being trapped there.

You can either replace complete pipes, or cut out any bad section and after making a flare on the pipe under the car, can add a proper jointer and new pipe.
Remember to fit the flare nut before making the pipe flare.
Jointers are available in 3.5mm and 4.5mm sizes.
By law, you cannot use a jointer that uses olives to grip the pipe.

Buying a project Xm with a split pipe is a great idea...it's on the floor and difficult to move around, everyone is scared of a leaky Citroen, but the repair is simple and cheap.

I found I could get there by removing the back subframe bolts but only loosening the front ones, it dropped it low enough for me to reach the pipe I wanted and makes it easier to put back.

Peter

Thanks for all the thoughts/ideas.
I have at long last "found" the other end of the cut 3.5mm pipe which I believe serves the offside rear disc brake but touch and access is so poor I could be wrong
so I now have two ends of a pipe that I need to join together . A certain hydraulics outfit can make me up a 4 foot long pipe with the necessary fittings but of course that still leaves the two ends on the car which need to be flared. How to achieve that ? Is there anyone with a flaring tool in Hertfordshire who might be willing to lend it to me(for a suitable fee of course!) for a very short time. Once I have done a bodge type repair I can then start the engine (which I know does start okay) and that will give me the option to find out if the project is worthwhile continuing with, or if a myriad of other problems come to light, I'll know what to do.
Assuming the problems list isn't too long then get an MOT and get the car off to a hydraulics firm for a proper repair and almost certainly to replace most of the spheres as some look very corroded. After that the rest of the repairs and fettling can be done at a more leisurely pace
Simon

Remember to start a blog in members cars section rather then continue here in the introduction area..

Remove the cut pipe from the car and have the complete pipe, with end fittings, replicated.

No need for a flaring tool then, just fit the new pipe.

If it is one to the caliper, it runs along the suspension arm, has a multi-coil at the pivot, then runs along the subframe to a union.

A brake pipe will only leak when the brakes are applied, so the car can be started and raised as long as you don't press the brake pedal.

If it leaks just with the engine running it isn't a caliper feed pipe.

You need to lift the car and have a proper look.
You should be able to place a jack under the rear towing eye.
Remember to prop the body before going underneath.

You're only 25 mi from Chevronics in Hitchin. They should be able to make up a pipe for you.

If (somehow) you can find the pt.no. for that pipe, even though it will be NFP (obsolete), Parts will list the length of it.
If you present the ends to Chevronics, they should be able to go from there.

Have reluctantly decided to part with the car, so if anyone is interested in acquiring an complete XM with hydraulic pipe issues and electrical issues around the centre arm rest area , then please let me know. Car is free to take away ( I know a very local car recovery firm to me who will quote a reasonable rate I am sure to transport it to your home/workshop. Car at SG12 0XG

There are some (almost) new spares i.e. battery , exhaust from cat.convertor to rear of the car and Citroen pipe faring tool with some 3.5mm pipe and fittings but would need some cash for those!

I can keep it for a few more days but after that it would have to be scrapped as moving home and nowhere to keep it