XM Virginia USA

[antonioconceicao]

Transistors arrived,

Replaced and working like supposed to be. I am actually amazed my AC still have charge.

Thanks

[antonioconceicao]

Hope to start to learn a little more about the Hydroactive suspension on my phase 1 Xm. But until I have figure out how to install the dione protection and the LED on the dash I am wondering if there is a way to by pass the system to soft mode. So far I install all new spheres and check fuse 25 and is ok , did the boucing test and it's soft, after the click goes hard. My problem is car is start off as soft mode then changes every time to hard mode.

I notice driving slowing and open the door goes back to soft mode but kicks back to hard mode.


Antonio

[Dieselman]

The diode mod doesn't apply to Hydractive-1 systems, as fitted to your car. Ecu H1, H2, H3.
H1-H3 Ecu are normally very reliable.

Have you read the fault codes using a blink Code reader.
See thread viewtopic.php?t=7368

Does the Hydractive lamp illuminate for 3 seconds when the Ign is switched on and constantly when the Sport switch is selected?
Lack of illumination at Ign on indicates a stored fault code. Reset is by reading all codes to the end of cycle, then hold the Blink Code reader button down for 15s.

Fuse 25 is for the ventillation fan, not Hydractive. Hydractive fuses are F19 (Ign, while engine running), F34 (Batt, for doors open at rest).

For the Hydractive system see the circuit diagrams in the Zip file in this thread.
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=10268

As your car is a 91/92 model year I think it will be using H2 Ecu, with a seperate Gnd feed for the electrovalve.
The wiring diagram linked to is for the H2 Ecu.

As the system functions at all it appears the fuses are feeding power, but the system does need good Gnd, which is mounted on the R/h inner wing, behind the headlamp, and are known to have poor contact due to corrosion on the multipole Gnd connector. Strip, clean, grease.
Test Gnd with a 55w lamp, while wiggling the two yellow wires, to see if it fails under load. Test from the Ecu connector and the 7 Pin connector, even the electrovalve connector if you have ready access underneath.
The electrovalve draws about 4A of initial current, so needs a good Gnd connection.
Does the left display ever show random "Normal Suspension" messages while travelling, if so the Ecu power/Gnd is probably being interrupted and restored.

What is happening is the system starts off working, but once under way and exceeding the 30 kmh activation limit, the Ecu sees a sensor forcing hard mode.
Any sensor fault will be logged in the fault codes, but the accelerator pot could be stuck in the fully depressed position, or the brake pressure switch could be faulty, telling the Ecu the brakes are on, or there could be a wiring short to Gnd.
The Auto-Sport switch forces hard mode on Hydractive-1 system, H1-H3 Ecu.

I have seen the boot lamp switch forcing hard mode after a while as it keeps the door open system operational, while travelling and after the timer has timed out. The switch flap comes dislocated from the trim, so causes the switch to make and break contact when the tailgate is closed.
I doubt this is the case as your car is subsequently responding to a door being opened.

Disconnecting the speed sensor should force soft mode as the Ecu never sees a speed greater than 30 Kmh. Your speed sensor appears to be working, but can be tested with a voltmenter, or oscilloscope, as it is a simple hall effect sensor. (2 wire)
Some people have been known to feed +12v directly to the electrovalve, but I would be wary of this due to it overheating, though I know of a number of Xm that had this "mod" running for years.
The correct operation is +12v for approx 10s, then PWM to give 6v continuous. It is the pwm signal that creates the soft hum one can hear if listening.
The voltage is reduced so the electrovalve is subjected to less heat.

A Dmm, LED, or test lamp is all you need for diagnosing Hydractive.
You can check all inputs at the Ecu plugs, or the brake, body attitude and Electrovalve feed and Gnd, at the 7 pin connector by the R/h sphere.

An LED wired in to the electrovalve feed will allow you to monitor the effect of each sensor while in motion.

If you want detailed information on how the Hydractive system functions, please see the manual in this, linked, thread.
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10570

Well done on fixing the fan controller.
Which transistors did you use?

[antonioconceicao]

Hello thanks again for the help.

The diode mod doesn't apply to Hydractive-1 systems, as fitted to your car. Ecu H1, H2, H3.
H1-H3 Ecu are normally very reliable.

One less think to do , thanks I am sure as I learn about it I will be able to keep it running at 100% I dont want to by pass

Have you read the fault codes using a blink Code reader.
See thread viewtopic.php?t=7368

Still have not figure it out how to make one, I order 680 Ohm resister , switch and LED waiting for the parts to arrive from amazon

12v solid red LED light.jpg

51LrWlxXAFL._SX522_.jpg

switch.jpg

Does the Hydractive lamp illuminate for 3 seconds when the Ign is switched on and constantly when the Sport switch is selected?
Lack of illumination at Ign on indicates a stored fault code. Reset is by reading all codes to the end of cycle, then hold the Blink Code reader button down for 15s.

The light on top left corner on the dashboard never comes on , I never seen it with or without Sport mode. When you say reset the codes do you mean by connecting the blink code reader after I make one to the plug floating around the hydroactive ECU , mine got 2 pins I think I will check.

Fuse 25 is for the ventillation fan, not Hydractive. Hydractive fuses are F19 (Ign, while engine running), F34 (Batt, for doors open at rest).

There is correct , is it normal for fuse F19 float between 12v to 4.5v? with car running?

For the Hydractive system see the circuit diagrams in the Zip file in this thread.
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=10268

As your car is a 91/92 model year I think it will be using H2 Ecu, with a seperate Gnd feed for the electrovalve.
The wiring diagram linked to is for the H2 Ecu.

Mine is a H3 ECU

H3 ECU.jpg

As the system functions at all it appears the fuses are feeding power, but the system does need good Gnd, which is mounted on the R/h inner wing, behind the headlamp, and are known to have poor contact due to corrosion on the multipole Gnd connector. Strip, clean, grease.
Test Gnd with a 55w lamp, while wiggling the two yellow wires, to see if it fails under load. Test from the Ecu connector and the 7 Pin connector, even the electrovalve connector if you have ready access underneath.
The electrovalve draws about 4A of initial current, so needs a good Gnd connection.
Does the left display ever show random "Normal Suspension" messages while travelling, if so the Ecu power/Gnd is probably being interrupted and restored.

I clean all the plugs and made sure grounds are good , I did test ground on pin 7 and the electrovalve. my display says auto or sport but never got any message randomly

What is happening is the system starts off working, but once under way and exceeding the 30 kmh activation limit, the Ecu sees a sensor forcing hard mode.

On my car after I start the car with doors close I notice the suspention is soft after +-30sec I hear the electrovalve click it closes and gets hard , if I open any door , electrovalve open and car is soft. while driving when I open the door gets soft but after 30sec back to hard mode.



Any sensor fault will be logged in the fault codes, but the accelerator pot could be stuck in the fully depressed position, or the brake pressure switch could be faulty, telling the Ecu the brakes are on, or there could be a wiring short to Gnd.
The Auto-Sport switch forces hard mode on Hydractive-1 system, H1-H3 Ecu.

When I put the radio on AM I can hear the hum on the speakers when electrovalve opens and close , but when I change from auto to sport nothing happens.

I have seen the boot lamp switch forcing hard mode after a while as it keeps the door open system operational, while travelling and after the timer has timed out. The switch flap comes dislocated from the trim, so causes the switch to make and break contact when the tailgate is closed.
I doubt this is the case as your car is subsequently responding to a door being opened.

Are the switch flaps on both sides ? they are plastic I could make sure working , what pin on the ECU can I check that?



Disconnecting the speed sensor should force soft mode as the Ecu never sees a speed greater than 30 Kmh. Your speed sensor appears to be working, but can be tested with a voltmenter, or oscilloscope, as it is a simple hall effect sensor. (2 wire)
Trying this right now I will get back on it see if works

Some people have been known to feed +12v directly to the electrovalve, but I would be wary of this due to it overheating, though I know of a number of Xm that had this "mod" running for years.
The correct operation is +12v for approx 10s, then PWM to give 6v continuous. It is the pwm signal that creates the soft hum one can hear if listening.
The voltage is reduced so the electrovalve is subjected to less heat.

I wont do this for now but is good to know

A Dmm, LED, or test lamp is all you need for diagnosing Hydractive.
You can check all inputs at the Ecu plugs, or the brake, body attitude and Electrovalve feed and Gnd, at the 7 pin connector by the R/h sphere.

An LED wired in to the electrovalve feed will allow you to monitor the effect of each sensor while in motion.


Just to make sure I am checking on the right stuff this is what I see on my car

Body attitude sensor

BODY ATTITUDE SENSOR.jpg

Electrovalve

ELECTROVALVE.jpg

Speed sensor

SPEED.jpg

Pedal sensor

PEDAL SENSOR.jpg

If you want detailed information on how the Hydractive system functions, please see the manual in this, linked, thread.
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10570

Well done on fixing the fan controller.
Which transistors did you use?

[antonioconceicao]

cont.

Steering Sensor

STEERING SENSOR.jpg

Pressure sensor?

PRESSOR NOT SURE.jpg

Brake sensor

BRAKE PRESSURE SENSOR.jpg

For the transistors I used Febi bilstein ref 28311 part # OEM 6441.78 I also notice the cable for the recycling air was loss and fix it , should help a little more with AC in the summer , thanks for the help
Antonio

[antonioconceicao]

Just notice my boot is not sending signal to the electrovalve

I put the radio on AM on station 594 with car running window open when open any door i can hear the electrovalve open after 30 seconds closes, noise is gone.

But when I open the boot electrovalve is not opening but I get boot open at message board at dashboard.

I also notice someone mess with hardess at boot got an external wire going somewhere on the boot door .

Btw i remove the speed sensor and the electrovalve closes after 30 sec.

Antonio

[Dieselman]

The light on top left corner on the dashboard never comes on , I never seen it with or without Sport mode. When you say reset the codes do you mean by connecting the blink code reader after I make one to the plug floating around the hydroactive ECU , mine got 2 pins I think I will check.

That lamp should come on for 3s at Ign on.
yes, reset codes with blink Code reader and two pin connector in Ecu box.

There is correct , is it normal for fuse F19 float between 12v to 4.5v? with car running?

Definitely not, it should be +12v at all times. Check battery clamps and leads both +ve and Gnd to body.
I think this is your problem, as the Ecu fails to operate below approx 11v and monitors faults down to ~8.5v, then shuts down completely.

Mine is a H3 ECU

H3 Ecu is the same wiring apart from the Gnd feed for the electrovalve passes through the Ecu, not being a seperate wire to Gnd point m1.

I clean all the plugs and made sure grounds are good , I did test ground on pin 7 and the electrovalve. my display says auto or sport but never got any message randomly

Per above, check battery to fusebox feeds and battery to body Gnds are all good. The battery clamp to lead connection can be poor, so perform wiggle test. The Gnd connection seems to suffer more due to the routing.

On my car after I start the car with doors close I notice the suspention is soft after +-30sec I hear the electrovalve click it closes and gets hard , if I open any door , electrovalve open and car is soft. while driving when I open the door gets soft but after 30sec back to hard mode.

It sounds like you are losing the Ign feed but the door open feed is still ok. Check power supply to F19.

When I put the radio on AM I can hear the hum on the speakers when electrovalve opens and close , but when I change from auto to sport nothing happens.

In Sport (hard) mode the electrovalve shuts off, so no PWM signal and no hum.

Are the switch flaps on both sides ? they are plastic I could make sure working , what pin on the ECU can I check that?

15 pin Black connector, Pin 5.
The switch flap is mounted in the rear bottom trim by the latch striker bar, the latch unit tends to knock the spring loaded flap off, so the switch contacts are U/s. The switch also feeds the boot lamp.

Trying this right now I will get back on it see if works

I doubt it will as your fault appears to be loss of +12v feed.
For safety, to guarantee controlabiity at the limits, the system default is hard mode, so loss of power forces permanent hard ride.

Just to make sure I am checking on the right stuff this is what I see on my car

All correct.

[antonioconceicao]

I have printed all the information and this weekend I hope to have the circuit ready to get the codes out of the ECU

Last year I won a power Probe PP405AS Green IV, never used it , because this electrical stuff is all new for me after learning the basic how to use it I think I will start to use this probe , maybe is way to advance for me but I like the basic function of 2 buttons

https://a.co/d/1bvghGW

I am documenting myself everything as I am learning and if I figure this one out I will post it on this forum what I have learn about Hydroactive as a newbie.

Antonio

The light on top left corner on the dashboard never comes on , I never seen it with or without Sport mode. When you say reset the codes do you mean by connecting the blink code reader after I make one to the plug floating around the hydroactive ECU , mine got 2 pins I think I will check.

That lamp should come on for 3s at Ign on.
yes, reset codes with blink Code reader and two pin connector in Ecu box.

There is correct , is it normal for fuse F19 float between 12v to 4.5v? with car running?

Definitely not, it should be +12v at all times. Check battery clamps and leads both +ve and Gnd to body.
I think this is your problem, as the Ecu fails to operate below approx 11v and monitors faults down to ~8.5v, then shuts down completely.

Mine is a H3 ECU

H3 Ecu is the same wiring apart from the Gnd feed for the electrovalve passes through the Ecu, not being a seperate wire to Gnd point m1.

I clean all the plugs and made sure grounds are good , I did test ground on pin 7 and the electrovalve. my display says auto or sport but never got any message randomly

Per above, check battery to fusebox feeds and battery to body Gnds are all good. The battery clamp to lead connection can be poor, so perform wiggle test. The Gnd connection seems to suffer more due to the routing.

On my car after I start the car with doors close I notice the suspention is soft after +-30sec I hear the electrovalve click it closes and gets hard , if I open any door , electrovalve open and car is soft. while driving when I open the door gets soft but after 30sec back to hard mode.

It sounds like you are losing the Ign feed but the door open feed is still ok. Check power supply to F19.

When I put the radio on AM I can hear the hum on the speakers when electrovalve opens and close , but when I change from auto to sport nothing happens.

In Sport (hard) mode the electrovalve shuts off, so no PWM signal and no hum.

Are the switch flaps on both sides ? they are plastic I could make sure working , what pin on the ECU can I check that?

15 pin Black connector, Pin 5.
The switch flap is mounted in the rear bottom trim by the latch striker bar, the latch unit tends to knock the spring loaded flap off, so the switch contacts are U/s. The switch also feeds the boot lamp.

Trying this right now I will get back on it see if works

I doubt it will as your fault appears to be loss of +12v feed.
For safety, to guarantee controlabiity at the limits, the system default is hard mode, so loss of power forces permanent hard ride.

Just to make sure I am checking on the right stuff this is what I see on my car

All correct.

[Dieselman]

A power probe is a useful tool to have as it can supply power, or Gnd connection, but I think the meter still has the same resistance as Dmm (greater than 20M-Ohm), so it applies no load to to a circuit...which means a poor contact can show as supplying +12v on a Meter, but fail to operate the device it is meant to power, due to the voltage dropping when under load.
I've taken a look at the spec of your PP, it doesn't say the internal resistance, but it does have a frequency counter and injector driver, which could be useful in certain applications...not for Hydractive-1 as such, but say, Hydractive 2, which uses a digital speed sensor. The frequency counter could detect the sensor shunting to Gnd at variable frequency as the car moves. (digital sensor...fixed voltage 0n/off, variable frequency)

Always test circuits with them under load: connect a known resistance load and ensure the power is still at full supply voltage.

Take a +12v circuit and use Ohms law: V = IxR, I = V/R, R = V/I
Testing with a Dmm at 20M-ohm resistance requires a current flow of only 0.6 micro-amps to show full voltage.
Testing with 55w bulb, P = IxV gives 4.58A required to illuminate the lamp fully. Any resistance reducing the current flow below 4.58A will make the lamp dim due to reduced voltage.
If necessary you can then connect the Dmm across the bulb to see what voltage is actually being supplied to it. Voltage drop is generally to be avoided in electrical circuits, apart from at the the actual device being powered.

Use a high power lamp to test Power and Gnd; (55w)
A low wattage lamp to test general circuits: (5w, 1w)
Dmm, power probe set to voltage reading, or Led to test steering and body attitude sensors, as they are very low power opto-transistors. Unlikely to be at fault as these are constantly monitored by the Ecu. Inputs outside range, or no input, will trigger a fault code.

Most of the sensors and Ecu inputs are digital (on/off), only the accelerator potentiometer and speed sensor are analogue (variable voltage), which can be tested using a voltmeter.
Door switches, boot switch, brake pressure switch, just shunt the Ecu supplied voltage to Gnd, so can be tested from the Ecu connector using a test lamp supplied with +12v.
The steering and body attitude sensors work the same way, but the current supplied by the Ecu is so low it won't illuminate a lamp.

When testing electrical circuits you are attempting to convert the unseen electrical energy into something your senses can detect...usually light.

E.g. Connect the 55w bulb to the Hydractive black connector (colours are in French), Pin-1 and a good Gnd and ensure there is still +12v at the connector terminal.
From your information so far, it appears the Ign fed +12v is failing under load.

It's best to start with the Battery terminals, then clamps, then leads to body. That way you know you have good power and Gnd supplies before moving onto individual circuits.
Don't forget to wiggle leads around to see if any are making poor connection when moving/vibrating.

Hydractive 1 sensor codes and tests now added.
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=10291#p127221

[Rhothgar]

Hello
First 1k miles with my new ride. Had bought this 2 years ago or so , used it while in vacation in Portugal last year and had it ship to USA.


Antonio

The perfect road to drive that down is the Blue Ridge Parkway!

I have a very friend in Blacksburg who is Emeritus Professor of Engineering at VT.

He’s invited us over for August/September but there is no way I think we will make it this year.

Last time, we came over we flew into Charlotte, NC. Hired a Road Glideand met Rich at Fancy Gap, rode up to Floyd and then across to Blacksburg. WHAT A ROAD!

Whereabouts are you located in VA?

As I think of it, Rich’s heritage is, guess what, Portuguese! I think their family name way back was Amato.