Roger, newby to the family

[Randy]

Hello.
My name is Rene, live in a nice baroque town at northern part of Croatia. Just few days ago bought XM 2.5 td 1996. with 286 000 km.
I'm very excited since, proud but terrified (after reading posts with other peoples problems at this forum and Citroen Forum of Croatia).
It's the third car in the family, came after Citroen Xsara 1.4 2003. and Hyundai i30 2018. and the first diesel I ever owned (actualy, the first car I named).
Roger has few issues, currently isn't smoothly drivable because of hydraulic but I hope to repair that with a help of my friend mechanic.
For current time I'm looking to find a user guide book since I couldn't find one in the car.

[Dieselman]

Welcome to the forum, Rene.
The 2.5TD is a very nice and smooth engine, due to the balancer shafts and the engine mountings being concentric to the crankshaft. Parts may be more awkward to source as that engine was only fitted to the Xm and Peugeot 605.
The cooling system is more complicated than most due to the intake air passing through an air to water charge-cooler, whereas most are air to air. There is an additional radiator and thermostat. It's worth ensuring this system is working properly to ensure long head gasket life.

What hydraulics issues do you have?

[Randy]

Thank You for replay.
First two days it was smooth drive, except when accelerating strongly, but now front side jumps on every bump witch is no miracle considering it was not driven for over a year. Plus, there is metalic sound coming from engine (presumably aircondition kompressor).
I'm afraid driving him before overall inspection and sevice (this week, hopefully).

Considering electric, interior lamps does not light before ignition and every time a car key is pulled out inner lights shut up and computer resets.

Poor Roger was neglected but engine runs smoothly and I'm looking forward to enjoy having this beautiful Citroen.

[DownUnderXM]

Roger looks fantastic, but it sounds like one or more front spheres have split their diaphragms. These will need to be replaced. You can get a rough idea of the condition of the corner (suspension) spheres by bouncing each corner.

Not sure if your car has the simple or hydractive suspension, but if you test with the engine running it'll be a fair test in either case. The rear should be much softer than the front, but the front should move - if it feels rock solid then that confirms that the spheres are flat, and possibly ruptured.

Ideally you need to get all spheres tested - if that is not possible then it is best to replace all spheres. Driving with flat spheres will cause damage!

[Randy]

The front is much harder, but it goes a bit down when I press it with my weight. Only diference is - it bounces on rough terein. That's why I don't want to drive him before checking everything by someone competent.
If it's hydractive, would there be the sixth sphere, and what's location of it? Could it be seen from above the motor compartment?

[Dieselman]

If the car has hydractive suspension it will have a slide switch to the left of the gear lever, to switch between Normal and Sport modes.
There will also abe a zig-zag light in the main instrumants binnacle that should illuminate for 3 seconds on Ign on. This lamp, top left of instruments, should also light when the switch is slid to Sport mode..

You won't be able to see the extra sphere under front of the car, but a quick check is to see if the front corner spheres are fed by either 3.5mm pipes, or 10mm pipes. Hydractive uses 10mm pipes, standard suspension are 3.5mm.
I would be surprised if a 2.5td Exclusive doesn't have Hydractive.

As far as you fault goes, it could be as already said, a sphere has ruptured, but it could be an electrical issue keeping the suspension locked in hard mode.
The only way to fully check spheres is with a pressure tester, alternatively fit new ones.
Member Gasa has a very nicely made one, which He made from a bottle jack. See post viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10339&p=123764#p123764

Start the engine and bounce both the front and rear of the car, then switch off, close the doors and tailgate, wait one minute and try bouncing again.
The car should feel much stiffer for the second test, as it should now be in firm mode.

Being a Series 2 Xm, it will have Hydractive 2 (assuming it has hydractive).
Hydractive 2 systems are susceptible to the diodes in the electrovalves failing due to heat, which stops the hydractive system functioning and can damage the Ecu output mosfets.
Install additional protection diodes into the wiring loom near the Hydractive Ecu. If the system has shut down it may come back to life, but is good preventative maintenance anyway.

The interior lights issue may be the long timer relay (837), which is mounted under the glovebox, but it's possible the interior lights issue, computer resetting and Hydractive issue (if fitted and the problem is electrical), are linked.
Check all power and Gnd feed are in good condition, pay particular attention to the Gnd point on the right inner wing near the Ecu box and the battery clamps and leads, especially the negative lead where it fits into the battery clamp.
Note: The interior lights and trip computer are both fed from F27 and both use Gnd point m5, which is under the steering column.

To check the interior light function press the interior lights button on the dashboard and watch the indicator light in the switch. If the indicator lamp fails to illuminate, or flickers, suspect the relay has failed. The switch feeds power to the relay, which feeds it back to the switch tell-tale and interior lights.

Please see attached, Gabor's excellent XM Series-2 circuit diagrams from the Self help files. to check the wiring and for diode installation.
download/file.php?id=9711

Appologies for the long post, but we need you to start investigating and reporting back so we can narrow down the actual causes of your faults.

There is no reason to be nervous about an Xm, all faults are fixable with a bit of thought.
Rust is the killer of Xm and you car appears in very good condition in that respect.

Hopefully someone will have an owners handbook for you, but in the meantime the fuses are listed in the circuit diagrams.

[Randy]

These are 10mm pipes.
I've found owners manual for series 1 (pdf), it gives me enough information.
Reading this forum I've found instruction of usage anti - theft device for my car. I am grateful for the information about loose pins meant for diagnosis at the ECU box compartment as well.
Indicator light in the switch illuminates when pressed, I should check switches in doors and trunk (read at this forum also).

I'll be wiser at the end of the week, hopfuly we''ll done servicing the motor and changing hydraulic fluid.
Thank You for Your help!

[Dieselman]

These are 10mm pipes.
I've found owners manual for series 1 (pdf), it gives me enough information.
Reading this forum I've found instruction of usage anti - theft device for my car. I am grateful for the information about loose pins meant for diagnosis at the ECU box compartment as well.
Indicator light in the switch illuminates when pressed, I should check switches in doors and trunk (read at this forum also).

I'll be wiser at the end of the week, hopfuly we''ll done servicing the motor and changing hydraulic fluid.
Thank You for Your help!

If the interior lights switch indicator lamp is lit, the interior lights should be on, as Pin 7 has +12v.
At this point the door courtesy lights should illuminate on opening any door.
The door switches create the Gnd for the door courtesy lights, but the power is provided as a function of either the door switches, or interior lighting switch, tripping the timer relay.

Pull the switch out of the dash test Pin 7 WRT Gnd.
You should have the same power at the ceiling lamp, brown 6 pin connector, Pin 3. Pin 2 is the Gnd, which goes to m5 Gnd point, which is under the steering colunm.
The door courtesy lamps should also have the same +12v feed on Pin 1.


Being a Series 2 car, yours should only have the 30 pin diagnostic socket under the steering wheel, no 2 pin connectors in the Ecu box.

See 30 pin diagnostic socket.

download/file.php?id=9024

[Randy]

Today's update:
My mechanic changed oils, filters and belts in motor and gearbox, changed antifreeze, repaired hydraulic - changed some pipes (he used copper pipes), 5 spheres changed and 2 rear ones filled up(one had 1 bar and the other one 19 bar), it was probably the first change of hydraulic fluid in 26 years!
Air condition unit refilled and repaired.
I was driving it happily for couple of days and today I lost power steering and after a while had to stop.
Hydraulic pump is next to change.
Hopefully would be done tomorrow.
Electric issues have to wait; nothing big I couldn't live without
I am very grateful to have good mechanic

[Dieselman]

That is odd for the power steering to fail, but the 2.5 does use a split pump, so it is possible for the pump to fail on one side only. Most likely the internal pressure regulator has stuck.

A sphere with only 1 Bar of pressure is very likely to be internally damaged, expect that one to fail shortly.

Once you have dealt with all the issues caused by neglect, you wll have a very useable car.