Citroen XM Forum

Hello,

I'm currently driving a modified Saab 9-3 (it's got 300bhp), but sadly my other half can't get insured on it due to the mods so it's going to be sold at the end of the summer. So I'm thinking of getting something a little different for our next car, and I've always admired the XM for it's individuality and style.

I want to get the best possible one out there, and I'm happy to pay up to £3000 (which I guess should secure a very good one?). I don't care too much about MPG, so I don't want a diesel. I also know that pre M reg have reliability issues, and as I only have on street parking where I live I can't do too much work on it so a post M reg ideally.

With those requirements, what model do you think I should go for? I'm guessing a late 3.0 with a PSA ES engine? If so, how rare of they. Also, do they come in manual or just auto?

Or are the 2.0 Turbo engine cars about as fast? I've tried to look at performance figures but (as ever) they are contradictory...

Thanks!

3000 should buy you a fairly decent XM yes, and certainly a V6.

There's an absolutely perfect one for sale on here, but it's priced at £6k

If you're willing to go a bit of work you can get a good one for a fair bit less. The likes of WHM cars priced at 3-5k will have had work done, but it doesn't necessarily mean they will be in better condition than a well cared for car that's been owned by an enthusiast.

As for pre M reg cars being less reliable, that is a total myth, propagated by the motoring press and people who know a little about XMs but not a lot (a little knowledge is a dangerous thing and all that .
With XMs, care, maintenance and history are key. There are many early S1 cars on here which are very reliable, it depends how much time and effort you're willing to invest to keep them up to code. The 'early ones are unreliable' myth seems to stem from electrical issues that some cars had in the first year of sales, which can be traced to poor earthing points in the front wings. Most cars will have had these replaced long, long ago, and if not then it's a simple job to do yourself. Once that's done, 99% of issues vanish.

Later series 2 cars seem to suffer more rust and bodywork issues than earlier ones, and in fact the very late ones were a cheaper build, with some features being deleted (such as the heating vents for rear passengers, oil level gauge etc), all done to save money.

In my opinion the series 1 cars were better built, although the series 2s have better sound deadening and a more ergonomic dashboard.

There are a few places to watch for such as rust in the sills due to damaged jacking points, and the suspension pipes above the rear subframe which can rust out, but not a bad job to replace, and once done will last the life of the car.
Strut tops are another key check.

You'll find many different opinions on the subject, but generally they are as reliable as the previous owner wants to make them.

You have £3000 and don't care about MPG, with a 300bhp Saab you obviously like a bit of performance, I'd suggest a manual V6.

The TCT engine is fast in it's own right but the V just has that extra edge. They're not too far apart though.

Ciarán

Welcome Badbob

I have an ES9 V6 for sale. It's currently awaiting the fitting of new Strut Tops and all can be read about her in my Members Cars thread.

I'm asking a good deal less than £3K

Nice bit of salesmanship there Jim.

mds141 wrote:Nice bit of salesmanship there Jim.

Well, I'd hate for Bob to miss it

Or not: What was your asking price again Jim?? £ 2750??

That's what I offered him and he turned it down flat!!

Sorry.. pre M reg cars reliability issues!! Not heard that before considering some of the engines carried over..

it sounds like the esj v6 would suit you best at 194bhp its the second most powerfull engine fitted to the xm and possibly the most reliable out of the petrols..

early s1 cars had the prv 24v engine fitted with manual box only but a bit scarse but have 200bhp..

uk s2 v6 esj 24v engines came as auto only in the uk.. but are worth it.

Check strut tops carefully if buying from a non club member. Also check ALL CILL AREAS and front out riggers behind the front jacking points.. if bent expect rot and welding needing..

left hand displays are now easilly fixed so if theres missing pixels its not a massive problem.

check under the boot floor also for rust.. the chassis lengths can be an issue but could be more so on early cars.

esj v6 have cam belts and one long one.. again though club members should be on top of it ..