Citroen xm 2.5 year 1998

[Dieselman]

The car looks well worth saving and looking at your level of expertise this should be easy. We can only deram of rust free cars.
That clutch has certainly been used to the max. Any marks on the flywheel from the rivets?

Regarding the oil cooler, I would look to fit one as the oil is used for piston cooling. Perhaps use a cooler from a 2.1TD as they don't rupture.

[normanlindley]

Hi Francisco, I used to be a member on this Spanish Xm site until I sold my 2.1 td Estate they are a very friendly bunch here is the URL for the web site http://clubcitroenxm.car-club.com/searc ... d=newposts" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.
Regards Normantilbury

[Xmforever]

[quote="White Exec"]If you haven't already had the work done, my advice would be don't spend money on checking out the oil cooler, and don't re-fit it. It is an unreliable component, as many of us have found out. I have had two of these rupture, despite always having used top-quality coolant. The item is easily removed completely (the oil filter will then screw directly on to the aluminium flange below it, with a standard short threaded tube). The two water hoses can then either be joined with a short length of 15/16mm pipe, or even blocked off. Either way, the cooling of the engine seems not to be affected. Leaving the cooler in circuit on the car risks it perforating internally at some point, and oil being pumped into the cooling system. This is a mess, brings the car to a halt, and very time-consuming to clean out.

Also (and I hope you don't mind the tip) when it's all back together, two more recommendations:
- use PSA's own 'Pro' coolant, 5-litre ready to use, Peu/Cit pt.no. 1135305. It's made in Spain by Brugarolas for PSA. Don't use long life OAT coolants. Use the Pro mix for all topping up.
- make sure when filling with coolant to bleed the system according to the Citroen workshop procedure, using a temporary 'header' bottle. This takes about 50 minutes to do, but ensures that all air is removed from the cooling system, particularly the cylinder head, and avoids the risk of localised overheating and boiling where air might collect.

Hope everything goes well. There's no better way to travel through France![/

hello thank you very much for the advice, I will use the coolant of peugeot, I will follow the steps of the book of tallaf to purge the air, the work of the oil cooler is paid .... really a pity not to know of this advice. Thank you

[White Exec]

OK, Francisco, sounding good. We all live and learn!!

On the oil cooler, unless your workshop has opened it up and rebuilt it (not at all likely), but just pressure-tested it, my advice would be to put it on the shelf and not use it. They have the habit of rupturing internally - working one minute and then allowing oil into the coolant the next. It would be shame to risk this on your newly-rebuilt engine. The clean-up operation is several days' work, and possible damage to rubber hoses and seals.

Maybe I was exceptionally unlucky with the oil cooler here:
Original lasted until 80,000 miles, and ruptured 9/2005.
Replaced with a brand new one (approx €400).
This lasted until 11/2010 - but slightly less than 5000 miles later. Car was not in regular use, but was filled with high-quality coolant.
After this, I replaced it by fitting a Setrab air-cooled oil-radiator, fitted in front of the main radiators. Mileage is now 121k, and all ok.
Fitting the 2.1TD all-steel oil-cooler would have been a simpler alternative option.

[Xmforever]

Good mornig.
Sorry for my english, I am helped by the google translator.

I have disassembled the old valves, the 8 intake, very deteriorated, and the new exhaust, but with many miles on their backs, I decided, the 12 new valves.


worn intake valve on the face of the seat with the stock, the 8 sisters.

After settling the 12 valves, this is the result, a lot of work, to accommodate the valves with the paste, roughing.

[Xmforever]

Good mornig.
Sorry for my english, I am helped by the google translator.

I have disassembled the old valves, the 8 intake, very deteriorated, and the new exhaust, but with many miles on their backs, I decided, the 12 new valves.


worn intake valve on the face of the seat with the stock, the 8 sisters.

After settling the 12 valves, this is the result, a lot of work, to accommodate the valves with the paste, roughing.

checked the 4 injectors, the interior nozzles to change

https://youtu.be/FFcbDP969Yw

[White Exec]

Some good-looking work there, Francisco, and good photos too.

Thanks for posting the youtube item as well. Interesting to see how it's done in France: the "wobble plates" here in Spain are the same, but the whole thing is done over an long inspection pit, with a driver in the car, and the inspector underneath. Any worn components are marked with chalk.

The heavy coking on the back of those inlet valves looks very much like EGR deposit. Was there more of it anywhere else - such as the inlet manifold/ports ?

[Xmforever]

hello the intake manifold is clean for the miles of this engine, I will soon take the collector to clean and upload some pictures of before and after.

[Xmforever]

Good Morning, after a Tienpo without showing the work, upload some pictures. Desire be in good taste.



Sand Blast Cleaning




Sealing all the plugs and logs of the engine block.







Electrical system Repair



Oil Cooler, removed to clean and check.



Sealing of contrarontantes trees, and blocks of the motor block that are behind the trees, if it fails and the sealing the oil and water will join.