G'day From Australia!

[MTXM]

That is helpful Chris and I think the colour of Jason's car is certainly Silicon Grey/ Gris Basalte with the slightly greenish tinge. With regards, Matthew T.

[motorgnome]

Thanks Gent's, that information is very helpful!

Matthew. The XM has been sitting on the ramps at work for more than two months, so I see it nearly every day..Would you believe that I never noticed that those Monte Carlo wheels were "Centreless"!!.. Why would you make such things??? You can tell that I am very "Green" when it comes to Citroen's hey! They'll be worth 10 bucks each to the Scrappy!

Well, the news today is that I took it for a sneaky drive up down the street a couple of times (more like 6) in the industrial area that I work, under the cover of darkness!..Mind you it would stick out, missing the drivers wing, front bumper & nose cone! I had to check out the transmission..It was stuck in my head & I just had to try it out to see if it at least changed gears. Well, it does..I only got into third, but it behaved as it should. I know that it is hardly a definite test, but it's a start. The first time it was actually driven for God knows how many years. I was a bit Chuffed! I wasn't expecting much, but the old PRV actually has a go when kicked down. well pleased. Another surprise (though it shouldn't be) is I got the "ABS out to lunch" warning from the LH display, as soon as the car drove up the road. It must be a wheel sensor thing, as the ABS light extinguishes on start up, but comes back on when the car moves over say 15 kph. That's a job for later..plenty of other things to do first.

I think I have some worn ARB drop links, as it is a bit "clunky" in the front end over bumps..not horrific, but It's not as quiet as my BX. One of my drop links is adjustable in length, the other not. What is this about? Some sort of height adjustment? Looking on Flea Bay for replacements, I can only find the Non adjustable drop links. Speaking of height adjustments, I also notice the car is a bit "nose up" in attitude(not bum down). Does the XM have a clamp arrangement on the front ARB that I can rotate a "Bee's Dick" to alter the ride height at that end?

Last question (I'm going to bed, It's 11.30pm here).. When I move the suspension into the low position (from normal height), the front drops like a stone, & the back takes a while to follow (big heavy PRV/ZF lump in the front?)Normal operation?...What concerns me a little, is that when I move the selector to go back up, I get the "Stop" light & low system pressure warning for about 10 seconds if the motor is just idling. If I rev it, it goes out in a couple of seconds. It feels lazy going up to me..(again, compared to my BX), but I suppose the system is bigger on the XM, with a larger volume of LHM to cope with & a similar (same??) sized pump..so is it a Dying pump or acceptable operation? It might still have some air in it somewhere too I suppose. Time will tell, I am not going to rip into stuff until it's been on the road proper & everything has settled down.

Oh yeah, my replacement power steering assist ram from the silver car leaks...It's coming from where the shaft exits the seal, not the rubber return collar, so that makes the ram "toast"

IMG_20181002_101424 (998 x 1331).jpg

Catch ya later guys & thanks again for all your help..t's great!

[Dieselman]

I think I have some worn ARB drop links, as it is a bit "clunky" in the front end over bumps..not horrific, but It's not as quiet as my BX. One of my drop links is adjustable in length, the other not. What is this about? Some sort of height adjustment? Looking on Flea Bay for replacements, I can only find the Non adjustable drop links. Speaking of height adjustments, I also notice the car is a bit "nose up" in attitude(not bum down). Does the XM have a clamp arrangement on the front ARB that I can rotate a "Bee's Dick" to alter the ride height at that end?

Last question (I'm going to bed, It's 11.30pm here).. When I move the suspension into the low position (from normal height), the front drops like a stone, & the back takes a while to follow (big heavy PRV/ZF lump in the front?)Normal operation?...What concerns me a little, is that when I move the selector to go back up, I get the "Stop" light & low system pressure warning for about 10 seconds if the motor is just idling. If I rev it, it goes out in a couple of seconds. It feels lazy going up to me..(again, compared to my BX), but I suppose the system is bigger on the XM, with a larger volume of LHM to cope with & a similar (same??) sized pump..so is it a Dying pump or acceptable operation? It might still have some air in it somewhere too I suppose. Time will tell, I am not going to rip into stuff until it's been on the road proper & everything has settled down.

Early drop links had one adjustable, but this was dropped, presumable to save cost. This is only an issue if the car is unlevel side to side, however a shim (washer) installed will sort that. Your BX probably has a shim on one side.

After sitting for a long time it's common for the XM to go nose up due to the front height corrector spring rod deforming slightly. Either reform the rod or adjust the clamp on the ARB.

The STOP light coming on when dropping and raising the car is normal, but may be exacerbated by worn out spheres, air leaking into the hydraulic system, an internally leaking FDV, or the pump belt being slack.
The ABS warning will be either a rusty reluctor ring, dirt between the sensor and reluctor, a duff sensor or connection.

Make a Blink Code Reader to read the fault codes.

http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... 892#p85892

[MTXM]

That is good news about the gearbox Jason after my less than happy experiences, but annoying about the steering ram which is a slight pain to access. I thoroughly endorse Will's advice on the front height adjustment required after storage and I had this issue on two of my cars. The ABS issue could also be a corroded front sensor lead connector behind the strut that is always my first port of call. With regards, Matthew T.

[White Exec]

The ABS sensor tips are strongly (and permanently) magnetic, and can pick up steel debris. This prevents them from operating properly. First job is to clean them and the reluctor rings up.

John has written lots here about ABS sensors and systems, and troubleshooting them.

Btw, in your last photo above, the olive-like bulges on the nylon return pipes should normally be pushed into the rubber couplings a short distance. These act as an anchor to prevent slipping out.

[motorgnome]

Thanks everyone for all your good advice, you are all so helpful & knowledgeable . I am a bit of an "orphan" over here on the other side of the world, but help is just a few clicks away! Cheers!

Chris, I had wondered about the bulges in the plastic line, & whether they were a stopper, to stop you inserting the pipe any further, or as you say, an olive type arrangement to clamp & seal. I still hadn't come to a conclusive result, so thanks for clarifying that! It's bloody tough getting them in the rubber junction when they haven't been inserted that far since Noah was a boy, & the rubber is now hard!

John is a genius in the electronics department hey.. I was following him in the French car Forum, & his dabbling in the Hydractive ECU's & diodes etc. He has written a lot of stuff on here, it'll take some time for it to sink in for me!

Dieselman, Thanks for allaying my fears about the "Stop" light. Last night was it's first night on the floor (as opposed to the ramps) since I've owned it. When I got into work this morning, the suspension was down all round (My BX sinks at the rear overnight & takes a couple of days for the front to drop), but rose quickly & without fuss when started..Most pleased! I have replaced all the spheres, overhauled the flow divider & replaced the HP belt, so I'm pleased that it is working as it should. PS I had already fitted the accumulator sphere when this photo was taken

IMG_20180903_130009-453x604.jpg

[motorgnome]

Not too much exciting happening today. I put the RH wing back on (I removed it to roll out a small dent), also the nose panel, front bumper,indicators, park lights etc. I must try to dismantle the indicators/fog lamps at some stage, as they look "murky" when illuminated..unlike my restored headlamps!

IMG_20181003_184502 (1331 x 998).jpg

Tomorrow will be removal of the roof lining, as it is all saggy in places ( a bit like me!). There is a trimmer just down the road, so I will give it to him to do, as he has the right high temp adhesive & does them all the time.

Cheers!

[White Exec]

If the nylon return tubes are firmly in their (hardened) rubber, and not about to fall out, leave well alone. Shoving the 'olive' in likely to bring on a split. None of the return lines are under pressure, as they are open at the reservoir (octopus) end.
The small rubber tees, elbows and joiners do split with age, and if you get a hydraulic leak, that's the first thing to look at.

BTW, BX front strut rubber return pipe will also fit XM - the BX one has two pipes coming upwards iirc, so on XM just blank off (cut off) one. The XM (single pipe) jobbie is the same as the Xantia one, and still available.

I think your XM wants to come back to life. It's been a long, long rest. Sleeping Beauty comes to mind...

[motorgnome]

I was looking under my car today whilst it was on the ramp..checking for leaks..and found this!!!

Chris, I'm blaming YOU!!!!..hahahhahahhaha

IMG_20181004_114818 (1512 x 2016).jpg

[White Exec]

They all do that, at some point or other. A long Citroen tradition!
Now what else can we put money on, guys?