Another XM says hi from Spain!!!

[Jaki1122]

That's it! First one I've seen (on the late cars such as mine it's just on a sticker on the RH A pillar).

Your car's build date is January 12, 1993.

Check this thread - it confirms that your car is definitely Series I, and was built less than 1 month before the introduction of Hydractive II.

http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9827

Thanks! Very valuable information!

[Jaki1122]

I would expect a '94 car in LHD will be an early Series 2 car, which from a reliability point of view should be good.
Obviously, the car will be rust free...

It would be worth fitting Hydractive electrovalve protection diodes into the loom, as the ones on the valves eventually burn out leading to spurious operation, or Ecu output transistor failure.
See the thread on the circuit diagram project for the ones for your car.

Check the rubber of the front suspension strut tops for any signs of tearing or delamination, as cars from warmer climes seem to suffer more in this respect.
The wheels need to hang to check the underside properly.

The ride and handling of a properly working Hydractive 2 Xm is incredibly good, so worth ensuring it is right.

Will do! the suspension strut seem ok, but given I have to jack up the car for replacing the exhaust, fixing the gear selector and finding a minor oil leak, I'll also take a look to the strut.
About the diodes, never heard of this mod before, I'll check the post, for sure!
Thanks!

[Dieselman]

I see your car is Hydractive 1, so forget fitting the diodes as H1 only has one and they don't fail.

On H1 the Sport switch puts it in hard mode straight away and the Lh display shows "Sport".
H2 won't switch into hard mode on demand, the switch alters the system sensitivity, so it switches to hard more readily, but will revert back to soft. The Lh display shows "Auto".

H1 is the more reliable system as the diodes and transistors don't fail, nor does it suffer corrosion on the rear electrovalve body...as it doesn't have one, it uses a hydraulic interconnect from the front valve block.

H1 cars also have a slightly firmer ride due to sphere specifications.

It would be worth you building a Blink Code Reader, as all the Ecu on your car can be interrogated with one.

http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... 368#p85892

[Dieselman]

1993 2.0 TCT Se?? Manual hatch Meteor Grey RP5909 G-RGY Spain

The interior picture you posted indicates your car is "S" trim, but Spanish spec may be different to Uk trim.

S level has rotary heater controls (which I prefer) and no wood trim (which I also think suits the car better).
SE gains the pushbutton climate control and normally leather seats, which may be heated front only, or rear as well...alternatively, SE cars can be upgraded to velour seats.
Nearly forgot the black headlining and electrically adjustable armrest...

[Jaki1122]

I see your car is Hydractive 1, so forget fitting the diodes as H1 only has one and they don't fail.

On H1 the Sport switch puts it in hard mode straight away and the Lh display shows "Sport".
H2 won't switch into hard mode on demand, the switch alters the system sensitivity, so it switches to hard more readily, but will revert back to soft. The Lh display shows "Auto".

H1 is the more reliable system as the diodes and transistors don't fail, nor does it suffer corrosion on the rear electrovalve body...as it doesn't have one, it uses a hydraulic interconnect from the front valve block.

H1 cars also have a slightly firmer ride due to sphere specifications.

It would be worth you building a Blink Code Reader, as all the Ecu on your car can be interrogated with one.

http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... 368#p85892

Are you trying to trap me into electronics?? Because that wold definitely work
Had no idea how simple a code reader is for this ECU. I'm even thinking using an Arduino to count the pulses so it gives you the error written in a screen... When I put back together what is "untogether" now, I'll probably build one. Many thanks for the advice.
There is so many useful and cool information in this forum... I'm thinking that maybe its not a bad thing that XMs short-circuits so much hahahaha.

[Jaki1122]

1993 2.0 TCT Se?? Manual hatch Meteor Grey RP5909 G-RGY Spain

The interior picture you posted indicates your car is "S" trim, but Spanish spec may be different to Uk trim.

S level has rotary heater controls (which I prefer) and no wood trim (which I also think suits the car better).
SE gains the pushbutton climate control and normally leather seats, which may be heated front only, or rear as well...alternatively, SE cars can be upgraded to velour seats.
Nearly forgot the black headlining and electrically adjustable armrest...

Nice to know. I think cloth seats are actually better than leather, primarily because of how nice they are to touch and not being that "cold" in winter. Only bits of equipment I miss in my unit is height adjustable seats (mine are electrically operated, but can only move them forward and backwards and the seat back inclination), light on the floor for the passenger and driver, the Diravi (why not??) and the adjustable armrest. Maybe I'll upgrade in the future, specially the lights and the armrest.
Never know XMs had velour seats though, I'll have to take a look at them.

[Dieselman]

Like your Arduino idea, that is what a Lexia does...it gives a graphical representation of the pulses.
Most OBD 1 diagnostic scanners work like this.

You could also make a Mux to be able to interrogate each ECU without having to connect separately to each, in turn.

[Dieselman]

The drivers seat should have electric height adjustment. Look for the switch on the front edge of the seat base panel.

[citroenxm]

Electric armrest also installable too.. centre console out. The mounting stúds are already there under the carpet foam.. a bit of wiring to a switch and bolt your box to the top..

As will says if it's electric it I'll be height.. look at the forward facing part of the plastic trim on the door side of the seat sort of below that upper switch .. facing the pedals..

[Jaki1122]

The drivers seat should have electric height adjustment. Look for the switch on the front edge of the seat base panel.

Well I found the hole and cable, but no switch. I managed to buy one 2nd hand, mounted and it works almost ok. I say almost because if the seat is at its lowest position it won't go up if you are on it, it pushes the left side but the right just gets stuck. After it pases that point it works fine. Thanks for letting me know they all are height adjustable.
I'll fix that issues with the seat when I'm done with the dashboard.