L592 EVN formerly J2 CXM

[citroenxm]

You can't leave it like that... last we heard was something was catching, now its.sorted... so.. come one. What was the magic??

As I already.know I bow to your perseverance and hat.off to succeeding in actually dooing it. Well done.

[Dieselman]

Good to hear it's running and the leak is fixed, well done and a new experience for you.

As already requested, what was the issue...and where is the video of you performing this job?

[maxferreira]

ha, video of me doing the work........there would be a significant amount of swearing, hitting and fustration

what i did?

the copper tube in the pump lid had slipped down causing it to jam

i fixed this by repeatedly striking it with a hammer until it went into the lid like it should, really showing it who's boss

i then swore at it some more

then i fiddled around with it for around 20 minutes and at last it dropped into the guide!

so i pushed the linkage back up into the lid feeling to make sure it was sat correctly and it was

yes, i then could move the spindle

so i tightened everything down, attached pipework etc and started the engine

it then ran away, so i killed it and went inside for the night

today, it was pouring down, i've just lost my job and just got back from going to an interview for my new job (in the green C5)

i faffed around with max fuelling until the engine actually started, once it started i tweaked it until it ran to a degree i can live with

then i messed about with the throttle spindle to get it to idle to a reasonable level (at around 1,000 rpm at the minute)

in doing so, i dropped the cup from the top of the throttle spring behind the pump so i'll never see that again (don't worry i've ordered a replacement)

so i thought i'll just put it back together and see what happens

it works, spring was a nightmare to sort onto the throttle arm

bolt on the throttle arm comes loose at times which causes the throttle to stick slightly but i'm going to sort this properly when i do my final assembly of the throttle arm when my new cup arrives

still got to tweak the idle to get it running right but it runs and it's useable

there is no technique, i just got lucky

but i enjoyed it

there is no leaks, it runs great and starts instantly

i'll be running it this week making sure all continues to be well

i'm so pleased with how this has turned out, yes the throttle can stick at times but that's easy to sort

[Dieselman]

i faffed around with max fuelling until the engine actually started, once it started i tweaked it until it ran to a degree i can live with

then i messed about with the throttle spindle to get it to idle to a reasonable level (at around 1,000 rpm at the minute)

Unless you made some adjustments as part of taking the pump top cover off, then no adjustments should be necessary when it went back together.
The maximum fuelling screw acts on the metering lever and since that hasn't been apart, shouldn't have required adjustment, the poor starting was probably just due to the pump being full of air, which also causes the run away symptom due to internal pressure imbalance.

The spindle isn't the method of setting the idle speed, for that set the idle and fast idle lever on the back of the pump, the small one with two screws facing vertically. This is the lever that the cold start waxstat cable pulls. From memory the left screw is fast idle, the right screw is warm idle.

The accelerator setting is for the anti-stall adjustment, to prevent engine stall on over-run.

I suspect you have increased the maximum fuelling, so the accelerator linkage can no longer reduce that enough to allow the correct 800 Rpm idle speed.
reset the accelerator lever stop, then turn down the maximum fuelling a bit, then set the idle if necessary.

Nearly there.

[maxferreira]

Yes I’ll do all that once the new top cup for the spring arrives

How it’s set at the moment is to keep it driveable so I can do some miles and ensure it all works correctly

But the news is yes, it can be done in situ, but my god is it not enjoyable lol!

Going to drive it today mainly to the car wash to clean it (paintwork is poor so don’t mind using them) as it’s disgusting and covered in mud and just to make sure it all starts well etc

But can I also say, a massive thank you to all who’ve helped me so far it’s been invaluable and I really appreciate it

[Dieselman]

Please see generic Bosch VE parts diagram. https://injectionpumps.co.uk/interactiv ... iagram.htm

I guess you have lost part 329, the upper spring cup.

If you look at the boost aneroid section you can see how the maximum fuelling screw pushes against the metering lever (95) using a spring. The boost aneroid lever acts in the opposite direction to resist the metering lever. The boost aneroid lever is actually a fuel reducing control, so the less boost the less fuel is delivered.
The accelerator lever also acts against the metering lever, all three balance against each other via the springs.
The fuelling screw influences off-boost fuelling, hence the engine runs at higher Rpm at idle and can be smokey when off boost, if this adjustment isn't correct.

The govenror also acts against the metering lever depending on engine revs, so unless over-speed occurs it isn't influencing fuel delivery.

The idle control lever, which isn't shown in this parts diagram acts on the accelerator lever to set the minimum delivery and the fast idle delivery, the stop lever acts directly on the metering lever, so can shut-off fuel by forcing the metering lever to the right side, cutting fuel to the high pressure head, which is what the stop solenoid does.

Idle speed control is covered comprehensively in the Haynes manual section 4B-8.

In my experience, the Haynes maual is pretty comprehensive for the complete Xm range, barring the V6, carburettor, single point injection and 16v engines, which are not covered.

[maxferreira]

typically i managed to find and retrieve the cup and fitted it this morning to huge success, throttle no longer gets stuck

fuelling is about sorted now i'd say too!

idle still needs tweaking with the idle screw, i'll do that in the coming days but we've settled to a good 1,000 rpm idle when warm, which is fine saves it almost stalling like it was yesterday

is there meant to be a bolt on the idle screw?

mine never had one, but it looked to be hot glued in place?

same with the cold idle cable, mine seemed to never be connected, so i didn't bother refitting the little spring as it made it easier and it wasn't doing anything anyway

[Dieselman]

typically i managed to find and retrieve the cup and fitted it this morning to huge success, throttle no longer gets stuck

Top job, well done.

idle still needs tweaking with the idle screw, i'll do that in the coming days but we've settled to a good 1,000 rpm idle when warm, which is fine saves it almost stalling like it was yesterday

is there meant to be a bolt on the idle screw?

Do you mean the accelerator lever minimum position screw, or do you mean the small, vertical screw at the back of the pump?
As long as the accelerator lever can be reliably set it doesn't matter what screw is used.

If the cold start cable is disconnected use the screw from that position, but it would be best to have that cable connected as pulling the lever increases idle speed and advances the timing slightly, to assist with cold start.

If it runs but stalls/nearly stalls after being revved then allowed to return to idle, the anti stall screw needs winding in a bit to adjust the position of hte throttle lever.
I'm assuming your pump no longer has the telescopic damper fitted: they are a pain for jamming and sticking, even when new. They also make the accelerator operation heavy, which the auto gearbox also does.

If you do need to adjust the fuelling screw turn it in very small increments, the difference between underfuelling so stalling and very smokey, is only a small turn.

[citroenxm]

I didn't think the xm had a throttle lever damper on xm. Only on 1.9 engines in 306s and xantias.

Tell me also will, the rear is a timing advance for cold start, so whats the front mechanism that's controlled by the coolant jacket to the side of the pump .. its like a second advance unit.

[maxferreira]

it's the minimum position screw, the horizontal one at the rear

i've been using that to tweak the idle to where it is now

idles back down fine after being revved, bear in mind however the idle switch is presently disconnected

cold starting and idling is fine, i admit it does idle a bit high but it's smooth