L592 EVN formerly J2 CXM

[maxferreira]

I’m planning on seeing if I can bodge it in some way to make it more secure, I agree it’s going to cause issues in the long run

It doesn’t seem to line up with the bracket somehow, not sure how

[Dieselman]

Did it not align origially?
Loosen it off completely and refit.

[maxferreira]

i shall get that done today

it did! but all i've done is move it around a bit to get the belt on and now it doesn't seem to align correctly so i can't properly tension the belt

[Dieselman]

You need to remove the belt, refit the pump properly, then after slackening off the pump as much as possible with all bolts still in, roll the belt over the edge of the pulley flange.
Once the belt is fitted apply tension and tighten the bolts.

[maxferreira]

good plan, it seemed to not want to move downwards on the upper "pivot point" to allow the lower bolt hole to line up with the bracket

it's still secure for now, so i'll take a look next weekend and see how i can adjust it, shouldn't be too bad

[maxferreira]

well currently using it over winter

jetwashed it after a week of commuting, got most of the salt off the car

going to be very interesting to see how she holds up

[maxferreira]

i forgot to update this thread

very unfortunately due to financial issues caused by a job loss in october and have only just started to recovered i decided it was best to sell this car in early january

i didn't want to, but a slightly needy XM that needed a bit of work or a low mileage C5 that's been troublefree there was little choice

don't worry

i will be back, i'm craving an XM and all being well i'll get another this year

[citroenxm]

Is it now working, or do you need to change the belt to the correct one?

What is the difference between a 2.1 Xm belt and a 2.1 Xantia belt?

Xm was 5pk ridged belt xantia is 6pk .. so the altinator has an extra width pully I've put a xantia td altinator on our 2.1td exclusive as it was only giving 13v, it now gives a better 14.2v output. Being a diesel xantia altintor should supply sufficent amps for the system too.. so far so good since I did it anyway.

[nimspringus]

Holy reviving dead threads, Batman!

Well, I'm the owner of this car now...and boy is it in a bad way.
I purchased it from Sam, who I believe bought it from Max, knowing it had been taken off the road due to a rusty sill. A sill didn't scare me too much, but the extent of the rot was quite horrific. Not only was the outer sill itself completely shot, but large sections of the inner sill too, not to mention the floor essentially being separated from the outside of the car and the lower inner arches being made of nothing but rust...it should really have been scrapped.

However, I'm a sucker for saving sad, old cars and I do absolutely adore an XM, so we dived into it. After three weeks of cutting, grinding, welding, fabricating, swearing and wondering what the hell I've done...the passenger side is back together.

But we are far, far from done. The front of the driver's side sill is unfortunately looking dubious at best, and given the state of the other side I'm preparing for the worst. All four bumper brackets are completely rotted out, the inner sill on driver's side needs a patch up top and a plate to the upper corner where it meets the scuttle. And that's just the welding work.

The sunroof has drainage issues which we now believe has been the cause of not only the extensive rust but the litany of electrical gremlins this car had and still continues to suffer with. Upon pulling up the carpet we found the floorpans to be absolutely swimming. I've also observed water droplets around the edge on the inside of the cabin, but the cassette is seized solid so it'll need replaced outright to get the drains unblocked.
Central locking and driver's window still don't work, boot won't open, passenger front wheel bearing is on the way out, there's definitely still a diesel leak from somewhere up front, a loud groan on the passenger side when moving off and the front suspension drops sharply after that car has been started, though it regains composure fairly quickly and will stay level after that, though drops pretty soon after the engine is turned off.
The doors even have big, horrid rust scabs from where moisture has pooled between the filler and the metal, so I'm seeking replacements in the correct colour for those too. She's really in rough shape and it'll be quite a while before she sees the road again.

Despite all of this, the car still drives *almost* as it should. There's no LHM leaks to speak of at the moment and the ride is supple and smooth.
So for that reason alone, it'll be saved. I hope I'll have good news to share in the not-so-distant future.

[Dieselman]

That looks like a proper challenge, as you say it was probably past the point of saving it, but you're there now. Keep us updated, it's certainly a challenge.
If only people would get out the wire brush seam sealer and paint tin, then a shot of rustproofing, it would stop all this.
In my experience the sills rot due to water entering the front wheelhouse seam, as they always seem to have a gap in the seam sealer low down.

I take it that is one of the reproduction outer sills, how are you finding working with them?

For the sunroof, even on a fully seized unit you can remove the glass section and rod the drain tubes using a net curtain wire, then test with water from a jug.

One of my projects had a kinked drain tube at front left corner, another had the rear floating gutter was pooling and spilling water.

Posts with details:
Kinked tube. (I'll rebuild more images when I have time)
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=10982&p=130959#p130959

Drain rodding.
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=11170&start=30#p132949

Floating gutter pooling water.
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=11170&start=40#p133374

If your car is only ever going to be a daily driver and you aren't bothered about authenticity, or looks, you could do as someone I know did when their Montego sunroof blew out while driving...just seal and pop rivet a metal sheet over the hole.

We need to find a source of sunroof cables, as they are really the item that gives trouble on these roofs. Water enters the channels and the cable rust and seize in position. The water then runs down to the underslung motor.
The primary reason is the sealant on the inverted U cable cover fails, thus leaks water in.
You can probably resurrect your roof by removing it and stripping it down.

The roof units should really be serviced periodically, but that means removing the complete cassette from the car, so it's never going to happen.

If you end up replacing and scrapping the doors, save every removable item, glass, rubber seals, check strap, window runners and seals.