2 * 2.1 SD

[Julianw]

If you have dormant cars, keep the batteries charged, otherwise they will go dead cell, necessitating replacement.

And with the propensity of modernz for parasitic drain, even disconnecting the battery is better than doing nothing. I have a (very useful) Chrysler Grand Voyager that loves to kill its battery over a few weeks of no use. And when the battery starts to get low, the infinite wisdom* of GM design guarantees both to completely kill the battery AND invite all sorts of security issues. How?

By randomly opening and closing the power tailgate, until the battery is dead. Ask me how I know...

[Dieselman]

Being disappointed that the engine still dripped oil when running I am having another go at sealing it. Last year I removed the gearbox and flywheel and installed a new crankshaft oil seal.
Having already fitted a new sump gasket a few years ago I don't think the leak is from there and believe it is the two upright rubber seals on the sides of the No.1 main bearing cap are leaking.
This engine uses a slightly strange arrangement where the No.1 main bearing cap (flywheel end) forms part of the cylinder block, so as well as the usual circular crankshaft seal there are a pair of rubber seals running vertically.
Unfortunately, to successfully remove and re-install the bearing cap means removal of the flywheel, sump and replacing crankshaft oil seal again.

I also noticed an Lhm leak from the return to reservoir pipe.

I've jacked up the front of the car and placed it on axle stands and used my rear suspension blockers to keep the rear of the car raised, for stability and working space.

Home made suspension blocker.

WP_20260413_004.jpg

It's awkward to insert the right side one as the fuel filler pipe is in the way, but it can be fed in. Raise the car to Maximum setting and post the tool in.
It would be easier with the wheel off as the arch liner could be pulled out of the way more.

WP_20260413_001.jpg

They work by jamming the suspension arm in a higher position.

WP_20260413_007.jpg

With both in position the rear of the car rests like:

WP_20260413_008.jpg

Lhm leak at the joint between steel and rubber pipes. First look shows there may be a split in the rubber pipe, just above the Ligarex band.

WP_20260413_012.jpg

Drain engine and gearbox oil, remove the battery, Lhm filter unit and reservoir, the turbo boost transducer, then lift the body to engine wiring connectors out of the holder and unbolt the holder at the rear of the battery tray. This is the third bolt on the battery tray that is awkward to access with the Lhm reservoir in place.
Unbolt the Gnd strap and Lhm pipe retainer bracket from the top of the gearbox.

Remove the turbo to intercooler pipe and to avoid damaging them, the TDC sensor and speedometer drive cable.

WP_20260413_014.jpg

WP_20260413_020.jpg

Disconnect the gear linkages by prying the ball joints apart, undo the L shaped retainer bolts holding the Rh driveshaft intermediate bearing, the lower suspension ball joints, driveshaft nuts etc and remove the drivehafts.

WP_20260413_016.jpg

WP_20260413_017.jpg

WP_20260413_019.jpg

To make space I jam the hub out with a wood prop.

WP_20260413_022.jpg

TBC...

[Dieselman]

A bit more stripping done.
Jack the engine up slightly and install a support, which is a tube and chain attached to the lifting eye, then allow the engine to settle onto it.

WP_20260415_001.jpg

Unbolt the gearbox mount, which has four bolts mounting it to the chassis rail and three to the gearbox. I chose to remove it as a single piece, but this was rather fiddly, so I may split it down to re install it.

WP_20260415_002.jpg

WP_20260415_004.jpg

WP_20260415_003.jpg

WP_20260415_005.jpg

I unbolted the gearbox from the engine and pushed it over the subframe, which does allow sufficient room to work. I removed the clutch and flywheel bolts and was surprised when oil ran out of some of the flywheel bolt holes. These were dry when tight and there was no evidence of oil on either the front, or back of the flywheel and the crank seal was completely dry before the oil ran out.

At present I assume this was oil trapped in the holes when I replaced the crank-shaft seal, as only the tip of the bolt threads are wet, being dry past the thread lock. I'll ensure these holes are thoroughly flushed out and sealed when re-assembling and check to see if they are actually blind holes, or just appear to be by inserting a probe. Citroen do state to use thread-lock...maybe this is the reason why. I may assume they are fully drilled holes and use thread-lock and sealant when rebuilding.

It's hard to see where the oil leaks from as it only leaks with the engine running and it has to be fully built up before that can happen, as the starter motor bolts to the gearbox.

I believe the leak is the seals in the main bearing cap.

WP_20260415_009.jpg

WP_20260415_010.jpg

I removed the sump, which was stuck on very well...the gasket had bonded tightly to both surfaces, showing no signs of leaking.
Note position of any different bolts. There are three Allen headed ones and three shorter ones in the main bearing cap and under the oil breather outlet.

WP_20260415_015.jpg

I packed the engine casing with polyethene and paper to ensure no debris entered it and scraped the gasket off the engine lock with a scraper.

WP_20260415_016.jpg

WP_20260415_017.jpg

You can see the ends of the vertical seals in these images.

WP_20260415_018.jpg

WP_20260415_019.jpg