2 * 2.1 SD

[Dieselman]

The metal to use as slip sheets arrived, so I used the 0.02mm (20 micron) stainless steel sheet to help install the rubber bearing block seals.
I had ordered 0.02, 0.03, 0.04mm, but thought the thinnest would be best, as long as it was durable enough. The clearance toward the top of the bearing block and aperture is very tight.

I cleaned the bearing block with brake cleaner, then installed the L shaped seals to the block, I also cleaned the engine block and added a trace of HT silicone to the top corners, only towards the outside, where the bearing block has champers. The rubber L seal is meant to seal, but I noticed there was silicone there originally.

I lubricated the bearing block sides and inside the engine block with engine oil, keeping away from the area the silicone was added. I cut two metal slip sheets, lubricated both sides and wrapped them round the edge of the bearing block and rubber seals, pushing the seals into the V section.

Using the slip sheets as guides I pushed and wiggled the bearing block into the engine block, ensuring the slip sheets went up with the seals to ensure they didn't become stretched. The slip sheets also stopped the rubber L seals from being cut by the sharp corner of the engine block.

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I then teased the slip sheets out sideways so as to not pull down on the rubber seals. These are the thickness of kitchen foil, but made of stainless steel for durability.

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I could see a little silicone had squeezed out of the joint so am satisfied it has been compressed.

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I bolted the bearing cap, stage 1 is 15Nm, stage 2 is 60 degrees.

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There isn't much L seal compression, so I cleaned any oil out using low pressure brake cleaner, then added silicone into the outside clearances, where I could, firstly by injecting it by the end of the seal, then also squeezing it into the joint.

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I wasn't comfortable with having used non-setting gasket sealer where the oil pump joins the block, so removed the oil pump, cleaned the sealer off both surfaces, degreased and re-installed the pump.
Having a metal to metal joint seems odd, but it is as designed. The pump is made from aluminium, so probably deforms slightly when being bolted up to the cast iron engine block and the bolt nearest the oil feed port is shanked to hold that section very stable.

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While the sealant in the bearing block was drying I cleaned the sump flange ready for re-fitting. I then cut the rubber L seals off using a 0.25mm thick shim and sharp knife blade, to achieve 0.3mm projection.

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When fitting the sump I added silicone to any engine block joints and the gasket to sump join, as the steel sump flange isn't perfectly flat.
I used non-setting gasket sealant on the gasket to engine block joint.
Non setting gasket sealant is only meant for use on gasket fibres.

[Dieselman]

I fitted a new crank seal and had a bit of an issue in so much as it pressed a bit too far into the housing at the top, so I then needed to set it all in a bit too far...approx. 2mm, which I think will be fine as it is still running on the polished journal.
I tried to pull it back out using a plastic sheet with a nib sticking out, but to no avail. I think this happened as a result of applying a thin smear of silicone to the outer rim and that acting as a lubricant during installation. The top pushed in as I was trying to press the bottom of the seal into the housing, not helped by access being poor with the gearbox in the way.
If I had installed the crank seal prior to fitting the sump I could have pushed it back out via the main bearing block drain hole.

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I fitted the flywheel and clutch, remembering to clean the flywheel bolts thoroughly and apply threadloc to seal them.

I re-fitted the gearbox, connected the linkages and installed the speedometer cable.

I had removed the gearbox mount as a single piece and installed it the same. It would probably have been quicker to disassemble it, as access to the gearbox and body mount bolts would have been much easier and it would have been quicker to align to the body and battery tray, for bolting together.
It's the first time I have taken it out as one and I won't do it like that again.

Mounting bolt access

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Gearbox mount as one unit. I would suggest removing the rubber mount, installing the gearbox mounting, then the body one and then re-install the rubber mount.

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I refitted the hydraulic hose bracket, ensuring it was correctly positioned. It is very easy to be confused by this.

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Lastly I fitted the reverse lamp connector, the engine connector bracket, battery negative lead to the gearbox and pulled the clutch cable into the mount and arm. As long as the clutch pedal hasn't been depressed the cable will pull freely through the self adjuster. Tip. Block the clutch pedal to stop accidental depression.

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[Dieselman]

I needed to install the driveshafts before filling the gearbox with oil.
Electing to not undo the steering track rod end at disassembly I found it easiest to use a wood prop to keep the hub spaced from the subframe, to give easy access to post the driveshaft in. I also placed a wood board to support the driveshaft to reduce risk of the rubber boot being damaged during installation.

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The right side has the extension shaft with a bearing held in by L shaped retainer bolts. Ensure these bolts heads are turned out of the way to allow the bearing to be inserted into the housing.

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I fed the driveshaft into the differential being careful to not touch the oil seals, especially since they were new last year.

Pull the bearing completely into the intermediate mount, turn the bolts while gently pulling, to seat the L shaped heads into their seats, retaining the bearing. Tighten the nuts.

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I greased the splines with a wipe of copper grease to stop fretting corrosion when they were in use in the hub, then installed the shaft into the hub.
The red dust often seen on driveshaft splines and hub bearings is corrosion from the driveshaft splines fretting as they rotate.

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After fitting the lower ball joint and track control arm together I couldn't create sufficient friction in the taper for the nut to tighten, even after propping the arm up to increase pressure on the taper.
The solution was to remove the nut and lubricate the threads with a drop of oil. The nut then wound straight on, without issue. This is why threads are normally specified to be lubricated when tightening to torque.

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On the Me5T gearbox there is a gearbox filler/level plug on the end, accessed via the left wheel-house, but I chose to not use this as the car wasn't level and it's easier to add the 1.85 litres via the taper plug on the front of the gearbox.

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Be aware the aluminium taper plugs can bind into the housing and may need to be destroyed to remove it. When refitting I smeared with copper grease and tightened only sufficiently for it to be retained. P# 2208 20.

I filled the engine with 5L of oil and as I wanted to crank it while observing the oil pressure light operated the engine shutoff lever and wedged it using a screwdriver handle.
I had used engine assembly lubricant on all the bearings, so rotation would be lubricated, but I didn't want the engine to fire before oil was circulating, otherwise the bearings might be subjected to shock load.

I had removed the hydraulic pump drive belt as the regulator and Fdv are hanging loose and the system is open.

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After two full 10 second starter operations the oil pressure lamp was still illuminated, but went out during the next starter burst. I then removed the screwdriver and fired the engine, and other than some oil spilling out of the open, due to rapid filling overwhelming the fill/breather decanter and filling the breather pipe, all seems well.

I re-installed the crank sensor, which was a bit fiddly as the air intake pipes were still fitted. A smear of silicone grease really helped with installation.
Having removed the sensor from the plastic mount meant I had to set the clearance and the paint mark had rubbed off...
I pushed the sensor down until it made contact with the flywheel, then pried it up only a little by twisting a flat bladed screwdriver under it.
The rev counter works so the sensor is set correctly. It only serves the rev counter on this car, as it's a mechanical fuel injection system.
Tighten the screw to hold the sensor in place.
During disassembly, if I had removed the air intake duct I would have unbolted the sensor mounting to save setting the clearance, but with the duct in place, access is awkward.

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Having cleaned the Lhm filters last year I didn't expect them to be dirty, but as the opportunity presented itself I checked.

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A splash of petrol and a small brush later.

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Filters and reservoir back in.

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I took the opportunity to go under the car and grease the gear linkage ball joints and the link under the gear-stick. People neglect this and they seize and can eventually snap the linkage.
I also greased all the height corrector and setting linkages and pivots.

If you want something to move either now, or sometime in the future...grease it.

As an aside I compared the new bearing block seals with the old ones. The new ones are round, the old ones trapezial, but I don't know if that is a result of 34 years of compression. They have gone very hard.
The original p# is 0127.05, superseded by 0127.40, of which I used genuine Peugeot ones.
0127.05 are available aftermarket, but don't appear noticeably different, though no specs are given.

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Edit:
Having been searching through part numbers I believe the difference between 0127.05 and 0127.40 is the later ones are longer, at 70mm, but otherwise the same.

[Dieselman]

I refitted the hydraulic regulator and Fdv, including all the pipe support brackets, which was easy enough, but fiddly to align all the bolts due to the pipes resisting movement.

The next task was to deal with the split Fdv to reservoir active return pipe that was leaking. This is an open return, so not pressurised, but all the regulator excess flow returns via this pipe.

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My intention was to cut the hose back above any affected area, insert a 6mm metal pipe, slide new hydraulic hose over it and clamp up.
This became a bit protracted for a number of reasons:
The original hose is made from thermoplastic, not rubber, so it isn't easy to cut without damaging it, which meant cutting more and more off it, also it doesn't stretch readily, so inserting the 6mm metal pipe proved challenging. I resorted to heating the hose with a hot air gun then gradually forcing the pipe in.

As the new hose is 1/4" it is a loose fit on the new metal pipe. My intention was to create a Citroen flare in the metal pipe to act as a retainer, but even having taped the outside of the pipe, I wasn't able to make if grip well enough in my Citroen flare tool to be effective.

I roughed the outside of the pipe to create a grip and inserted into both hoses. I can't see it coming loose from the original hose as it was such a tight fit. The new hose is reinforced rubber so easily compressed.

I then clamped it on with two Ligarex bandings, as they give a perfectly round clamp and are very small so able to fit into the hose sheath.

I added some heat shrink to protect the Ligarex tails and other hoses nearby, then slipped the new hose back inside the plastic sheath.

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I ran the engine to prime the hydraulics and due to having been completely apart the pump couldn't prime. The "correct " way to prime them is to remove the pump suction hose, manually fill it, then start the engine and reconnect the hose as soon as the level starts to fall.
I don't do that as it means disturbing the hose connections, which might cause air leakage at a later date and also it's a faf.

I use a bicycle pump fitted to the reservoir breather cap to pressurise the reservoir, thus pushing fluid into the suction hose as the pump is running.
Once the pump is circulating fluid, which is evident by the air bubbles in the reservoir, remove the bike pump and close the pressure relief bolt.

Having checked the repaired hose with the system in operation, there are no leaks. I'll check again then slide the sheath back over and re-install the convoluted wire bracket.

[Dieselman]

I wanted to change the one on the belt end of the crankshaft, as afaik, it's original. The camshaft seal was replaced when I acquired the car and replaced the head gasket.

To access the seal means removing the timing belt, so replacing that seemed obvious, especially since it is over age, but nowhere near the mileage required for replacement.

I jacked the engine up under the underside rear torque mount then removed the upper engine mount casting, rubber mount and torque bush unit.

I prefer to pin the flywheel for guaranteed accuracy, so out came my home made pin.

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I have previously marked #1 piston TDC on the crank pulley and timing belt cover, so turned the engine forwards until there. If you don't have this marked you have to either remove the timing case and pulley and look for the timing belt pulley key aligning with the cutout in the engine case, or use the flywheel locking pin and keep rotating the engine until it engages.

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Disconnect the battery Gnd lead, then unbolt the starter. If the starter doesn't fall off the locating dowels ease it back slightly then lift it to slip the crankshaft pin underneath and into the hole through the block, into the flywheel.
You can only just see the hole for the pin to pass through, even with the starter pulled forwards. The Citroen tool was supposedly designed to pass behind the starter, but must have been for the 1.9 Atmo Xud engine, because with the size of the 2.1 starter, all the hoses and oil filler in the way, there is no chance.

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To be easily be able to see the engine at TDC when the belt pulleys are removed, I marked the flywheel and bell-housing. Due to the large diameter of the flywheel, this is very accurate.

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I removed the timing belt covers. I could have removed the upper ones before rotating the engine,.

Checking the camshaft showed the engine to be on the wrong firing stroke. For fitting the belt this engine needs to be at #4 TDC, but is at #1 TDC.

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Remove the flywheel locking pin and rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees to rotate the camshaft and fuel pump round 180 degrees.

With the flywheel once again pinned, or aligning with the paint marks, install the 8mm bolts to pin the camshaft and fuel pump pulleys.

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I loosened the tensioner lock nut and bolt, turned the snail cam clockwise to release the tension, then remove the belt, which appeared in very good condition.

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When undoing the lock bolt it was rather bound in so I decided to remove it and the lock nut and apply some anti-seize grease. As I am only replacing the belt I had left the engine mounting fitted, which meant I was working blind through the small access hole for the bolt.
predictably the snail cam fell down a bit and it took me about 30 minutes to mount back in the correct position to be able to function. I was able to pass the bolt through it and into the engine, but when turning the cam it would block and not operate as a cam.

When installing the cam it was riding over the front of the tensioner unit and catching on the frame. I had to tighten the bolt finger tight, rotate the cam anti-clockwise a little, then tighten the bolt once the cam dropped into position. At least it's greased now...

Images of a new tensioner showing the issue and resolution.

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With the belt off I cleaned the engine case, removed the crank pulley and woodruff key to access the crank seal. I noted the oil pump sprocket, which is what the oil seal runs on, doesn't have a key, so always ensure the crank pulley bolt is tight and has threadloc applied.

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To remove the seal I drilled it and inserted a self tapping screw then pulled it out with pincers. Checking it after removal showed the seal to be in surprisingly good condition for 34 years and 170k miles.

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I drifted the new seal in with a wood block, then refitted the woodruff key and pulley.
I don't know if it matters that both keyway sots are aligned. If both pulleys had keys that would be normal, but it appears the oil pump sprocket key has been deleted and the drive for that relies on clamping force (friction) only. That may be why Citroen specified a higher torque figure for the pulley bolt.
Haynes gives the figure of 40Nm + 60 degrees, whereas Citroen say 70Nm + 60 degrees. Haynes state no official figures were available at time of publication, so maybe they were applying normal torque for both pulleys being keyed.

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When fitting the new belt it is very awkward to ensure the run from the crank to fuel pump is tight enough. What tends to happen is that fuel pump is one tooth retarded. The way to address this is to remove the bolt pinning the fuel pump sprocket and roll the sprocket clockwise enough to engage the next tooth on.
Another way would be to turn the crankshaft anti-clockwise only a little, but that is awkward without the pulley fitted and impossible with the locking pin in place.

After the belt is on, allow the tensioner to take up slack and lock it off, rotate the engine forwards two full turns and re-install the flywheel and camshaft locking pins and if they fit easily, remove them and again release the tensioner bolt and nut and allow the tensioner to take up any more slack, then lock it off again.