Drive Work

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steelcityuk
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Drive Work

Post by steelcityuk » Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:53 am

Hi all,

No real work has been done on the XM since getting it back on the road in the spring, all of the rest of the year was taken up with sorting out the existing driveway and turning the garden into a hard standing.

It took so long to do because I was mainly working on my own and saving as much of the exisiting driveway as possible to use as hardcore for the new drive. All this entailed barrowing large amount of rubble into the back garden to be stored until the soil was dug out to give the finished level required. All the digging was done the old fashioned (cheapest!) way and 60 tons of waste barrowed into skips. Slow but good exercise. The quotes we had were well outside our budget so it was all done with price the governing factor.

The first steps to see how the existing drive was made up. Not easy to see but the finished level of the existing drive was above the damp proof course.
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The blue pipe contains the armoured power feed to the garage. I wanted to widen the gap between the gate posts to give me a couple of extra inches, the XM is a very tight squeeze.
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The gatepost was dug up and cleaned off.
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I decided that a bit of extra metalwork would help support the gates, this seemed needed because I couldn't digout on the far side of the gatepost because it was on the boundary and under their garage. The whole lot was seam welded, painted, waxoyled internally and the openings plugged with silicone sealant.
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Now in place. The other side of the gate had an extra wooden post fastened to the wall to allow the gates to meet. This was removed too to give another 3 inches of clearance. Metal brackets were later welded to the gates so that the chain wouldn't be needed to lock them shut.
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The drive was done in sections to cut down on the amount of barrowing needed to move the hardcore around. There was some kind of problem with the Concrete, it dried before we had time to finish it but at least it's level and smooth. The bricks in this little corner have been sandblasted to clean off any splashes and accumulated dirt, the difference between cleaned and uncleaned can be seen further along the wall. After sandblasting, the bricks had two coats of Thompsons Waterseal. The pipe work still needs finishing in this shot.
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It used 3 cubic metres of concrete to do this first section.
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Second section ready to go.
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A short delivery made a mess of things. Definately short but you can't prove it? Although the concrete looks thin in this shot it is a minimum of 4 inches thick everywere.
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A decision was made to replace the old fence. I wanted a fence high enough to give me some privacy whilst 'on the front'. The uprights are about 8'6" which makes handling them tricky due to their weight. I needed help to slot the panels into place, the uprights and gravel boards went into place before the panels were ordered. The cable strung across is the Cable media service, I want it accessible so that if it goes faulty and new piece can just be pulled in. Eventually I'll tube it to give it some protection.
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Next job was to divide up the large area to make pouring and tamping the concrete more manageable. All the spare blocks were used as infill. Quite a few trips were made with the XM scrounging bricks and hardcore out of builders skips. Luckily I didn't have to buy any hardcore at all. All areas have a 5 to 6 inch hardcore base.
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So here's how it used to look. Note the scabby fence, weed membrane showing through the gravel and the exisiting mismatched tarmac drive concrete path. Behind the Prius are 2 Parabags of builders sand and 2 packs of blocks, these too had to be moved around the back by hand. Things like this really lenghtened the job.
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There's still more work to do but it's useable. The blocks need cleaning off, the bay repointing and the brickwork sandblasting and a couple of coats of sealer. Roll on Springtime!
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Steve.
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Dieselman
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Re: Drive Work

Post by Dieselman » Thu Jan 19, 2012 6:26 pm

It's certainly looking a lot better and more usable.
Why bother using water seal on the bricks, they are naturally resistant to water penetration and leaving them to breath is a good idea as it ventilates the inner part of the wall as well.
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Dean
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Re: Drive Work

Post by Dean » Thu Jan 19, 2012 9:22 pm

Nice work Steve, that looks very smart now, that xm looks lovely now too, ive got my drive to do this year but its not going to be anything like that amount of work and thats all on the diy front, im taking a year off :D

D
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steelcityuk
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Re: Drive Work

Post by steelcityuk » Thu Jan 26, 2012 10:44 am

Dieselman wrote:Why bother using water seal on the bricks, they are naturally resistant to water penetration and leaving them to breath is a good idea as it ventilates the inner part of the wall as well.
Sandblastintg the bricks seems to break the glaze and make them more absorbent than they already are. So my idea was that sealing the outside would stop them absorbing the rain in the first place and any moisture can evaporate up the cavity. We don't have cavity wall insulation and I've taken the time to remove bricks around the base of the house to allow me to clean out the cavity. The amount of junk that came out had to be seen to be believed. Whilst I was at it I fitted the odd extra airbrick.

Steve.
XM 2.1 SED K Plate - RP5876
Scenic 1.5 dCi 100
Gone -
Scenic 1.9 dCi 130 FAP
Prius T Spirit
XM S2 TCT Exclusive Hatch LPG
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Dean
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Re: Drive Work

Post by Dean » Thu Jan 26, 2012 6:04 pm

i hate cavity wall insulation, doesnt do wall ties any good and it was the root cause of damp in my place, every room i have broken into the cavity, removed the insulation, cleaned the crud out and fitted extra air bricks, now the damp is no more but it was one hell of a job.

D
92 Citroen XM Prestige 3.0i Auto R.P5678
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steelcityuk
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Re: Drive Work

Post by steelcityuk » Mon Jan 30, 2012 12:25 pm

I did look into cavity wall insulation when we bought the house but I found reports of it leading to damp and rotten wall ties so I didn't bother. Cleaning out the cavity will hopefully protect the walls from damp. We don't have any but I think it's a good idea to keep the air flowing.
XM 2.1 SED K Plate - RP5876
Scenic 1.5 dCi 100
Gone -
Scenic 1.9 dCi 130 FAP
Prius T Spirit
XM S2 TCT Exclusive Hatch LPG
XM S2 2.5 VSX Estate
XM S2 2.1 VSX Hatch
Xantia 110 HDi Exclusive
Pug 405 GTX TD

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Dean
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Re: Drive Work

Post by Dean » Mon Jan 30, 2012 6:26 pm

It was a wise decision i think, i removed the second layer of loft insulation as well, it was tucked down right into the eaves and covered the top of the cavity and so cutting off the air flow in the cavity as it could not rise up and out into the roof space, the condensation on the felt was awefull too where there was no air flow with glass role hard against it.

Sounds like your having fun anyway Steve, of sorts :)

D
92 Citroen XM Prestige 3.0i Auto R.P5678
14 Mitsubishi L200 Trojan
89 Talbot Express 2.0 coach built Auto-trail Chinook

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