XM 2.5 won't start

[endorfin]

Have replaced the solenoid and it still isn't starting.

When the RAC came out the second time, he had to keep tapping the solenoid while I was turning the engine over, it struggled then eventually started and ran and I managed to drive it home. This morning took out the old solenoid and fitted the new one, it looked to be correct but it just won't start, just keeps turning over??

Help.

[robertmnorton]

Hi endorfin, as previous, crack an injector union and check for fuel egress whilst cranking to ensure air is bled after the solenoid replacement, also bleed and prime fuel filter. As the solenoid was the last work done you must ensure you are getting fuel to the injectors.
robertm

[Dieselman]

Is the solenoid being energised with 12v?

[endorfin]

Turns out the new solenoid was faulty, well the plunger actually, new plunger had a rubber tip the old one was metal swapped the plungers and it now works. Will see how it goes, if it fails again will take it back for a new one.

[endorfin]

Now car won't start again, I'm thinking that it may not be the solenoid after all but air getting in. The RAC loosened one of the pipes going into the fuel pump and asked me to start the car, it started almost immediately and he tightened the pipe again, it stopped and started fine a few times after that. Now that it's been standing a few hours I tried it again and it's failing to start.

If this is down to an air leak, where is it likely to be?

[xmexclusive]

As previous check for fuel at the injectors.
If ok then check the injector leak back hoses and stop end for cracks and splits.
If not then check out the fuel supply.
Standard 2.5 items are:
Fuel heater if not already linked out.
Fuel filter head if original as the rubber pump can leak.
Fuel feed and return pipe at the back of the engine where steel changes to rubber.

John

[2point5XCL]

Check the fuel feed pipe to the solenoid and end connections thoroughly. I had a mesh reinforced pipe on mine which on close examination was moist in one place, enough to allow air to be drawn in when standing but without an obvious fuel leak. A replacement plain rubber fuel pipe (8mm I think) cured it. Mine would start but only after prolonged turning. Now starts instantly.
If you cannot see anything amiss get a length of home brew pipe of suitable bore to see if there is air getting in elsewhere.

Roy.

[marc61]

It's worth double checking the connections to the glow plug controller mounted at the front of the battery. I had the main cable connector develop a crack due to corrosion and it caused intermittent cold start problems for a while before breaking in half.

Marc

[kenhall]

Turns out the new solenoid was faulty, well the plunger actually, new plunger had a rubber tip the old one was metal swapped the plungers and it now works. Will see how it goes, if it fails again will take it back for a new one.

Diesel pump stop solenoids usually have a rubber tipped and spring loaded plunger which provides the positive fuel shut off when the solenoid is de-energised. It is not unknown for the rubber tip to perish and disintegrate which may give running on problems. This is what happened on my 2.1TD's Lucas EPIC pump. I wonder if bits of rubber from a perished solenoid tip could be causing intermittent fuel flow problems elsewhere in your Bosch pump??

Ken

[xmexclusive]

Hi Ken

Interesting suggestion that.
Well worth considering the solenoid plunger as a maintenance item.
Not something I had ever thought about.

John