My 1993 XM 2.1 SD Auto L322 VCV

[citroenxm]

Ok Mathew,

Whats the other colour code too??

[Aerodynamica]

Thanks for the comments, I went to view a Xantia 2.0 VSX a year or so back in that same very dark grey and had a full black leather interior but it had very rusty front strut tops and one missing alloy. Was tempted as he'd have taken any offer on it but soon I found Charlie Brown and although he's mid range he is a mk1 and that wins for me..

I just went out a run in VCV and it went well. Seems to all work well except the heated rear window and the front suspension - I'm fairly sure now the bouncing is sphere related so I'll see about fitting a center sphere to the front for starters as soon as.

It is also doing that very loud hissing thing. Seems to be when you are braking to a stop it'll begin and continue for ever - it causes the engine idle to roughen a wee bit. I am certain it is caused by the HP pump belt being not quite tight enough as my last BX did this (albeit not as loud!) and only revving stopped it. New HP pump improved it hugely and getting the belt tighter improved it more so I think the belt on VCV does need tweaking.

One rear electric window doesn't work at least from the center switches, I didn't try it from the actual door switch.

I must say I am still MEGA impressed with those seats!

That said, XM foible number 1: the driver's door electric window switches feel too far back to conveniently use for me.

Little bit of a delay in the brakes so at least will have to bleed them - disks and pads are said to be new all round but not actually checked yet.

Although the rear suspension seems smooth, once every so often the near side rear wheel really bangs over a bump - I think when making a bit of a turn to the right.

[citroenxm]

Nice One Greame...

A point about rear windows... The rear windows work through the centre console switch's..

I remembered this with the latest car as the rear window was stuck in the half way position. I pressed the rear switch and it moved down.. After replacing the corresponding centre console switch the window worked up and down from BOTH switch's...

This is because the centre console switch's are the masters and the rear door switch's slaves - being able to switch them off, but still work from the centre console.

DO ask for any switch's Ive SO many you wouldn't beleve it!!!

[russ92xmsed]

I dug out an picture of the Gris Silex V6 Russ... Here she is with my blue V6..

A very lovely colour that grows on you...

Thanks Jim for the pics. Lovely V6. That shade of grey is slightly darker than the one I was thinking of, but it is a wo nderful shade of grey. Suits the V6 a treat. Sophisticated and stealthily!

Graeme, great news fixing VCV. Hope you get to the bottom of the other problems. I did say they like to misbehave.

[CitroJim]

Graeme, the hissing is normal enough- that’s the FDV (Flow Distributor Valve) that proportions pump flow between the steering and brakes/suspension...

Brake delay will be resolved by replacing the accumulator and giving the brakes a good bleed. I'd almost wager the accumulator is either flat or very low and this can affect brakes and the FDV hiss and make it hiss for longer...

Yep, that's it the paint code for Gris Silex is ETW...

[Peter.N.]

Nice looking car. Must have started its life in Cornwall.

Peter

[MTXM]

Yes Peter 'CV' seems to be for Truro, in which case she has traveled a long way as now in Glasgow!! Regards, Matthew T.

[Dieselman]

The rear wheel bang sounds like a ruptured sphere, try bouncing each corner, it should be very soft at the rear, much more so than a Xantia.

[Aerodynamica]

Front and rear centre spheres changed making large difference to the rear and improvement to the front.
The rattle in the roof turned out to be a loose metal wind deflector middle mounting.
Changed the heater control bulbs ând found the distribution control is not functioning due to the dial being broken at the back. The control pin could be turned but is very stiff so probably the cause of dial breaking.

Still need to investigate the right hand clock display and replace a bulb or two behind the Speedo. How do you get to these?

[russ92xmsed]

Hi Graeme,
I took my binnacle apart over the weekend, so its fresh in my mind. The thing to do is to be very patient and careful.

There are two black caps either side of the binnacle, inside edge, which hide the screws which secure it all on.
You then need to carefully prise the front edge up from under the dash surrounding the warning light strip. Then it is a case of grabbing the back of the binnacle and pull towards you. There are three large long tabs at the back which hold it all in. They don't like being removed so take it easy or they will snap.

Once that is off, you can get to the dial pack which is held onto the bulkhead with four screws. You then need to disconnect the speedo cable. Before you do this tie some string to it and tie the other end to something. It will stop the thing from escaping into the dash.
Once the dial pack is out it is very obvious where all the bulbs are. And there are loads!

And in the style of the Haynes manual...replacement is the reversal of removal!

I haven't done the others..well mine is the electronic button air conditioning panel which pulls out very easily. So different experience there.
The warning light panel I am unsure of but someone will no doubt help you out.

Best of luck