Info help needed on ABS sensors

[xmexclusive]

I will bring one round that you can try.
It will have the mod to make it fit the Bendix green plug.
Should be able to fit the trip in by this weekend.

John

[captainhaddock]

I wish that message was for me I can make a pic for anyone to see how deep the teves sensor goes into the hub, meeting the ring. If that's any help. I've recently fitted a TEVES sensor in a Bendix car, only to find out the wire is broken. I will try and fix that wire this weekend to get rid of this annoying orange warning light.
There is a good chance your car is still having ABS, mine still has a working abs, don't know on how many wheels but expect 3. Teves sensors are still available.

[southerner]

ok thanx for the help, ABS sorted for the time being, up date on the Turbo, it is working I had the breather pipes off to-day to check to see if the blades was going around and there was moving, and the vacuum to the Turbo is all ok no problem there, so its got to be electrical problem.

[xmexclusive]

With present knowledge there may be some issues to using Teves sensors on a Bendix car.
Modifying the Teves sensor blue connector to fit the Bendix green socket is easy, just needs the polarisation ridge filed off.
Real bendix green plug sensors have a close fit adjustment to set them a paper width from the ABS ring.
Checking the fit for front sensors is easy as the fit can be viewed and measured using a piece of paper.
Setting the fit for the rears is push it in till it touches the ring then ease off a paper width.
No visual or measuring check is possible.
Teves blue sensors are a non adjusting fit which does not seem to give quite the same close fit.
This is all that is needed to operate the Teves ATE ECU reliably but it may not be adequate to give totally reliable signals to a Bendix ECU.
I would like to compare low rotation signal outputs on a scope to know more about this.
It does suggest that the ATE ECU can operate correctly from much lower signal levels.
For the Bendix ECU we may need to file a very small amount from the Teves sensor head to get it to seat a fraction closer to the ABS ring.
Reports of practical in service use without problems will be very helpful.

John

[citroenxm]

Id try that for you john on a live car .. this td auto xm 2.1 project on an L reg 1994 has the abs light on but id try a pair of tevis on it .. though ive not done an abs sensor check yet to see why the light is on.

thats if ive understood your posting..

[southerner]

Ok took it into the mot it failed as i thought it, abs behave it self light stayed off, 1 of the 5 things they failed it on was the steering rack gaiter on the near side, going to be a problem to replace as there is a ram connected after the gaiter, so do any one know how to dismantle that ram so i can replace the gaiter

[captainhaddock]

It's a rotten job. Taking it off with two bolts but BE CAREFULL if the bolts come off that good but if you can't, don't wreck the bolt that is holding it. I am currently treating my bolts with lots of penetration oil just in case but wasn't able to remove the bolts on a dismantled steering rack on my work bench.

[xmexclusive]

Hi Pete

Get real Citroen gaiters not aftermarket ones which quickly slip loose.
They are cheap and have projections to lock in grooves so do not need straps or ties.
The side of gaiter you need is the same for all XM's.
I think part no. is 4066.30
I have done both sides of a car recently without taking the rack out the car.
The write up is on here somewhere.
To do the near side I undid the ram bolt, loosened the other ram end, then eased the ram eye off the bolt.
That got enough space to work the gaiter over.
Fill a mug with boiling water and put the gaiter in it for a few minutes.
It will then be soft enough to ease over the ram stud.
To get the gaiter started on the track rod loosen the track rod end lock nut.
Note how far you moved it (for example half a turn).
That information will let you reset the tracking back as it was when it all goes back together.
The track rod has spanner flats one end.
Using these you can unscrew the track rod completely.
That lets you get the gaiter on the rod.

Will be worth checking this out on your spare car with its empty engine bay.

John

[captainhaddock]

So what to do when the bolts won't come off? I've already had this on the steering rack lying down on the work bench. For this I've flattened an old 18 spanner with an angle grinder to make it fit the counter nut. I haven't used it on the car yet but thought it's handy to have in case I need it. Maybe it was a one off situation not being able to get the bolt off but here you go, better safe than sorry. In my case job is planned but time is the enemy as usual, and ABS issue is first on my list soon now.

[southerner]

Thanks John, All ready test work on the Silver xm, undone the 2 bolts not to much hassle but theres is a loop bar with 2 more bolts thats restricting movement of the ram.
I found some old diagrams that show an exploded view of the rack, according to this that collar that on the end of the gaiter that the ram bolts onto comes off as it is listed as a part/numbered, but sadly the diagram dont say how to get it off
pete