Anthracite XM 2.0 SEi Turbo Manual

[White Exec]

All looking so much better!

Re: the LEDs, the twin arrangement looks neat. If it helps, it's ok to string small numbers of LEDs (up to 5 or so) in series (your photo looks like parallel). The LEDs have a forward resistance of more-or-less zero, so the current through a few in series is the same as just through one, and the series/current-limiting resistance chosen will be the same.

Bet you knew that already!

This site has lots of good info on LEDs:
http://led.linear1.org/category/led-basics/
http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

[russ92xmsed]

Greame, the twin LED's are brilliant. Any possibility of a write up on how you did it. It looks like a very neat way of doing them. I might upgrade!
The hydractive LED is great idea too.

I don't know how you can sell this XM now. Is sooooo sorted!

[Aerodynamica]

Hi Chris , you're quite right - they're in parallel but I didn't realise they'd work in series (!) I was just intending them to have the right polarity. This evening I'm fitting another doubler. One update is that the green light diffuser sits off centre inside the switch so you have to aim one LED more horizontal than the other to get equal lighting of both switch arrows.

Another new bit I got in the post today was a set of replacement injector conector plugs - if you recall the four original ones are all frayed at the wires and looked like they'd break off in the coming future. I originally 'fixed' them by using RTV sealant to re- strengthen them but it's not an ideal long term.

I initially had some trouble finding the type of plug but it turns out to be a well know Bosch plug called a Bosch EV1. And it's the same plug used on a good fw sensors on the engine too so that's good to know. They're widely available as well.

Still to fit them though!

I know Russ, I might just hang on to it and the CX for this year and perhaps sell the CX after the summer but not sure yet. There's hardly an orderly queue for the XM!

I'll see about a write up for the double LEDs soon because they make a real difference.

[Aerodynamica]

moAr updates!

(I just can't leave it alone..)

So today I started working on the petrol injector plugs.. If you recall one of the first problems I noted about this XM was the dodgy injector plugs
. here's the original find:


I cleaned these up and used RTV to reform the ends over the wires and join the trunking back to the plug. Wasn't too keen on leaving it this way so I ordered a set of the injector plugs - Bosch EV1 plugs.



Stripped back and marked - they haven't frayed any more than before it seems.


But after removing all the insulation tape revealed the inner wires were also frayed at the base where they branch out from the main loom so I had to replace the full length of each of the four sets of wires. The advantage to this is the I can wire the plugs up on the workbench as opposed to working on them in situ.


After all new plugs were fitted I though it would be best to use RTV to give structure to the main branches from the loom

you can just make it out in this blurry pic


I reused the original trunking for each set of wires and again, plugged each end with RTV


And while the RTV is setting I tied down the set of trunking looms to hold their position. They tend to stay curved upwards and would be pushed down by the underside of the bonnet and that could cause them to fray again in the future.


So it's running afterwards - no apparent change of the throttle response but the engine is already hot so it's hard to tell whether any improvement as a result. It runs fine when it's heated up.

[Aerodynamica]

More LEDz pleez!

Having fitted LEDs to the other window switches, the last one to look at was the driver's one-touch window switch. I must admit it was far more challenging than the other switches. The switch has two light bulbs hard wired to the switch internals. Quite tricky to replace with LEDs; where to fit the resister, how to wire the LEDs and will they fit. Well the 3mm LEDs easily fit into the same space as the former bulbs but the resistor etc. was trickier.


Skip to the end (didn't have opportunity to get loadsa pix) and it's done and works very well


Rubbish photography but they actually are illuminated in this picture. They're pretty bright but still properly diffused by the standard switch 'spots'

Pretty happy with the results on this switch. It has been in darkness since I got the car.

I know what you're thinking... since Russ originally championed LEDs in the switches I've been treating them like they're the answer to everything!!! They ARE!!!

LEDs rule

[Dean]

Lovely job again Graham, your running fault brings up the eml doesn't it? Or does it not......

D

[White Exec]

If you're going to do lots of LED replacement in tight spaces, might it be worth getting hold of some 12v LEDs (same size as standard item), and so not have to both with resistor, etc.?

[Aerodynamica]

Hi Dean, no it doesn't bring the light on but up until this week it's because the bulb was blown!! I replaced the bulb and the EML light comes on only at start up as a check. It doesn't light up as a fault light. There's no fault codes recorded at all. It's a mystery...

The only fault code i had been getting regularly was the engine speed sensor AKA crank sensor. I was getting the fault even after fitting a new crank sensor. But during the cylinder head job I removed the crank sensor again and found a bit of debris on the end of the sensor. It must have been chucked off the flywheel. After cleaning it the ECU hasn't repeated the fault code for crank sensor (or any other fault) since.

IT would be ideal Chris, but I was trying it out with the fair stock of LEDs I've amassed! It's working so far.

[Dean]

It must be a variable then, I was thinking duff injector or dirty, that would give a weak burn but I would guess no eml to a point and would be worse when cold due to needing a rich mixture, it is tricky.

Excise my ignorance but why are you fitting a resistor in series with the LEDs? And yes they do rule! No heat, last a absolute age, you can get them in any colour and they are super cheep its a win win

I will be shamelessly steel ng your HA valve led idea too, novelty value in geek terms is off the scale, love it

D

[Aerodynamica]

I can't take credit for that Dean! the notion of fitting an LED for the HA was mentioned before! (at some point..)

As for the resistor - you need a resistor in line with a standard 12v LED bought as a single component, as the current is too high for it. I've blown several of them by shorting them out clumsily.

Yes, I wondered about the fuel injectors being dirty (they actually were manky as seen when the manifold was off) since their resistance is measured as being right. I still wonder if the fuel pressure drops off in the first stetch of running. TI replaced the fuel filter can but I wonder how well the fuel pump will last out....

No the problem is still something to do with the revs changing, from idle - hit thr throttle a bit or a lot - doesn't matter, the engine drops revs a second and then responds to throttle. and off you drive. Then, driving along, take your foot off the throttle to draw up to lights, the engine goes off. Starts instantly and is at a stronger idle than just before it dies.

That's the existing symptoms. It'll show the same symptom of cutting out even if it's stationary: you rev it (same delay) but it revs up then when you take your foot off the throttle it tends to drop rpms down to cut out. Again, it restarts and tends to idle stronger than before it cut out.

At first i thought it was something to do with the crank sensor as it was the only fault code.

Possibly is the injectors - one of the few things not changed...