V6-sei project.

[Dieselman]

Do you know if that is also true for the ML5T used with the ES9?

Approx. 2.2 litres. Recommendations have the quantity listed as 2.1-2.4 litres, Haynes says 2.2 for the 2.5Td, which is the same gearbox.
I would need to check the actual Citroen manual to be more precise, but that figure should be good enough.

New oil is always going to be better than old oil. People often neglect gearboxes and final drives, but the oil is under a lot of stress, which is why it is EP (extreme pressure) rated.
I recall one of my cars having filled for life differential, which I noticed had become very slightly whiney on over-run. New oil and it was back to being perfectly quiet, due to the oil film then keeping the gear teeth from making metal to metal contact.

[Dieselman]

I really enjoy reading your posts Dieselman and the more pictures the better, at least I like to look at them!

Can you explain why you modified your dipstick? Has someone replaced the dipstick with a newer one without realizing that the oil capacity is different?

Thanks. I enjoy reading other peoples posts...hint, hint... As far as pictures, it used to be called "Top shelf reading"

I modified the dipstick as the bulletin shows a reduced oil quantity after Rp 5201 and although the sump is slightly changed, the depth and volume, are not. The later engines have a lower oil volume, as a result of the dipstick being longer.
My 1992 V6-24 has the longer dipstick, so I assumed it must be Ok, hence feel comfortable in performing the mod to the earlier dipstick.

I think there must have been too much oil in these engines increasing the propensity for leaks and possibly oil foaming.

[xantia_v6]

Do you know if that is also true for the ML5T used with the ES9?

Approx. 2.2 litres. Recommendations have the quantity listed as 2.1-2.4 litres, Haynes says 2.2 for the 2.5Td, which is the same gearbox.
I would need to check the actual Citroen manual to be more precise, but that figure should be good enough.

I just found the Citroen service guide, https://mega.nz/file/LlwB1AiY#XCET5Cmo3 ... Zx5bhYtHgE and it says 1.8 litres for the ML5 transmission on the XM V6 and and 2.2 litres for the MG5 in the 2.5 TD.

Note that on the ML5, the fill plug is on the rear face of the differential housing (above the subframe) and is very difficult to reach.

[xantia_v6]

Other service booklets covering different years of XM:

1990: https://mega.nz/file/npx3yISK#tZLhjSPbI ... 8kIcsVAGh4
1992: https://mega.nz/file/WxhhUQrY#Xe32gvorF ... pC2xIB6fHM
1995: https://mega.nz/file/vtwFgaBZ#KpgXJewrL ... r0hhMwiYA8
1996: https://mega.nz/file/28hHFJLa#WtB1g_-qC ... uob1aIwFAE
1998: https://mega.nz/file/LlwB1AiY#XCET5Cmo3 ... Zx5bhYtHgE
1999: https://mega.nz/file/ygpFwaSB#lRjUZSWTv ... _oWNC-U6hQ

[Dieselman]

@Xantia_v6
Thanks for those Citroen Private car books, they will be very useful, I'll list them all in the Self Help Files, section. I had forgotten how useful those books are, they have everything relating to the cars covered.
We do already have the 2001 Citroen Private Car Book, for Series 2 Xm,...listed in the hydraulics section, as it is mainly used for sphere type and pressures viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10270#p127560

Apologies for giving incorrect information, I was short of time so decided to use the Total oil selector as a reference, which does list the correct gearbox, just the incorrect volume. Total are the company that supply Citroen, so one would have thought their communication was accurate.

[Dieselman]

I just found the Citroen service guide, https://mega.nz/file/LlwB1AiY#XCET5Cmo3 ... Zx5bhYtHgE and it says 1.8 litres for the ML5 transmission on the XM V6 and and 2.2 litres for the MG5 in the 2.5 TD.

Note that on the ML5, the fill plug is on the rear face of the differential housing (above the subframe) and is very difficult to reach.

If the fill plug proves too difficult to access, either unscrew the reverse light switch, or, my preference, would be to pull out the speedometer drive and fill via that orifice.

[Dieselman]

Another job done to the V6, refit the headlining which was very mouldy and had come loose all over, especially after brushing and vacuuming.

I washed and re-installed the original material, which was a mistake. It is incredibly difficult to mould it into the front section of the headlining and using the original material meant there was no spare to allow it to push into the corners tightly. To do this properly one needs to make a mold to clamp the material in position, then hold it there while the adhesive fully cures, otherwise the material pulls loose.
If attempting this again, I would start at the difficult part and work backwards to the easier, mainly flat part.

You wouldn't believe how much work has gone into this, for Me, this isn't at all enjoyable. If anyone has tips on how to do this, I'd like to hear them.

From the passengers POV, it all looks fine, but I can see I might redo this at a later date, there are more pressing issues to deal with.
I have washed the mould off the interior plastics, which have come up well, cleaned the tailgate electrical connectors and Gnd points, which are behind the interior plastic section at the rear.