Keeping half-an-eye open for an XM

[Old-Guy]

My Subaru has a thirst for oil after only 110,000 miles, so was thinking about another 'real' Citroen when I spotted an XM coming up for auction. at Mathewsons (lot 23 on 15/3/2025). This ones not for me: auto-box and I have other priorities at the moment. But it set me thinking and a couple of long evenings of reading.

As of now, I've come to the conclusion that if an XM with a sound body shell and of the right spec. is to be had for £2-3,000, for a total spend of say £5,000 I could have a nice reliable Grand Tourer that I could keep up to scratch myself. In 10 years of Xantia ownership, I learnt a lot about Citroen hydraulics - the rest is pretty much normal 1990's car mechanics.

My $64,000 question is, "Does a 1995-on 2.0i (all turbos by then?) with manual transmission, sound like a sensible proposition? If I find one."

The Xantia was a 1.9TD SX estate, and I also had a 2.1TD VSX estate for the about 9 months, but I know nothing about the 2.4 DK5 engine. Petrol makes more sense for relatively low annual milage. I'd keep the XM for summer touring, and buy a little banger for local daily and winter use and the XU10 J2TE - RGX is supposed to produce 147PS with a healthy 235 N⋅m at just 2,500 rpm.

[Dieselman]

You've obviously done your homework and have some knowledge of Citroen hydraulics, so should feel very comfortable maintaining a 2.0 petrol Xm.

All Xu10 2TE were turbo by 1995 Note the T, all later 2.0i - atmo were 16 valve.
The turbo is the older, robust unit, a bit thirsty.

I personally prefer manual gearboxes, but most UK Xm were sold as automatics, due to it being a no cost option. The ZF4HP-18 is actually fairly robust and can be reliable for high mileages, as long as the fluid is changed and strainer cleaned, regularly. Try to take advice and if possible test drive as many variables as you can. Xm enthusiasts are all ways keen to demonstrate their cars. I would suggest attending a Citroen rally to gain knowledge. Feel free to keep coming to this forum.

All Uk supplied Xm have Hydractive suspension.

You seem to know what you want, finding the right spec for you will be the challenge.

Only 3 things to worry about on an Xm; Rust, Rust, Rust. Sills, jacking points, rear subframe mounting points, are the first giveaways.
You can maintain your own Xm at home, no specialist equipment, or tools are required.

Good luck with your search. When the right one comes up, you will know and need to act quickly...they aren't making them anymore.
That one at Matthewsons is a reasonable spec and Magenta is a good colour. I'm surprised at someone selling it without fresh MOT, though the history indicates it should pass without any real issues. I note they say is now has a flatspot.

[Old-Guy]

Thank you for such a comprehensive reply.

Like you I prefer a manual, in the early 80s we did have a decrepit Hillman Minx (Hunter shape) with BW type 35 3-speed auto-box that worked much better after I took off its 'sump', cleaned out all the crud and refilled with new ATF. But that's the extent of my servicing and repair experience
of autoboxes; on the other hand, I have repaired various mechanical gearboxes.

I smiled at "...no specialist equipment, or tools are required." Dring some 35 years of car-fettling prior to our first Xantia, I'd always serviced and repaired our family cars and consequently accumulated a fairly comprehensive automotive tool kit including all the 'standard' size metric sockets and spanners. Then, working on the Xantia, apart from completing my set of ½" sockets and buying a complete quality set of gland-nut spanners, I kept finding I needed yet another unusual size/type of socket/spanner: a 16mm deep socket - O/S engine mount, 900mm breaker bar - crankshaft bolt, 12mm deep cranked ring (HP fuel pump and glow plugs), there's a 9mm ring bent into a strange shape... immediately spring to mind. Over some 12 years, my tool 'kit' grew to the weight and size that I need a trolley to move it around!

[Dieselman]

I wouldn't call a 16mm socket, crows-foot wrench and specific spanner to be specialist tools, they are universal for further uses.
A lot of cars require single use, special tools for basic jobs, such as cam belt changes, or suspension bush installation, where the tool only serves one purpose for a single model, or engine.

[oldphil]

Hi there - new member, first visit and I saw your message. Reason for coming on is that I have a 1998 XM VSX 2.5 DT manual estate available. Silver metallic bodywork in pretty good shape. It has been off the road for a few years but was in running order when parked. Any sensible offer considered as we have to move and it can't come with us. Based in north Hampshire, between Newbury and Andover. Thanks for reading.

[Old-Guy]

Thanks for the reply and the offer - sorry, the timing is wrong, I need to down-size first (half the size but WITH a garage). Also I'd prefer a petrol as short runs are particularly unkind to diesels. I ran diesels for about 30 years, starting when I used to do 25-30,000 miles a year including a Xantia 1.9 that I loved. Replaced it with a C4GP, terrible mistake, horrible van-based biscuit tin. Money pit, early one, injectors started going at around 70,000 miles. Good engine when it was working, pulled like a steam engine from below 2,000 rpm. Endless FAP troubles after I retired. Had to get rid of when a totally dependable car became essential.

[Old-Guy]

Dieselman - I understand what you're saying, but I'm old school. My benchmark is a 1955 Porsche 356 Super 1600 that I owned back in the early 1970s. You could, and I did (single-handed in 1½ days) remove, strip and rebuild the engine with the toolkit provided: IIRC 17mm and spark plug box spanner with tommy-bar 10mm x 13mm box and OE spanners, pair of pliers, Philips and plain screwdrivers the former doubling as tommy-bar for the smaller box-spanner, 10mm Allen key. I already had an ½" AF socket part-set and torque wrench (previous British cars), to which I added 10mm and 17mm sockets and a 10mm hex bar (another 10mm Allen key cut down) and an 8 x 10mm deep cranked ring. The metric spanners and a spare ratchet handle lived in the car - not that it ever let me down - but when your only transport is nearly 20 years old it's sensible to travel equipped. I was told by AFN's Service Manager that the works rally team could change a clutch in under 20 minutes (an engine even quicker) at the side of the road.